If it is valve lash (don't think so) , it should change with engine temp--not rpm. This sounds like a loose something (mounting bracket outside the engine)--esp if it is rpm sensitive--if you have a stethoscope, should be able to pinpoint with it--
Fuel looks rather low in sight glass...
1. Is the fuel cut solenoid clicking repetitively with key on when you disconnect and reconnect cable?
2. Is fuel in middle of sight glass?
3. Does choking the engine help or no major change?
My 79 repl engine did not have any of the 'rings" etc. in the exh mani--nothing but a straight flange--I tossed that due to the excessive heat and went the header route(prob solved) used the JT Outfit headers(less expensive) but you need to get...
I love my headers, especially after making a fluid heat riser so I don' get carburetor ice in the fog. I did make custom stepped brass washers (to fix the thickness difference between the manifolds) and installed longer "studs" and stainless...
First law of troubleshooting is: what changed? Seems earlier the rig was running ok and now it's not--what changed? Did it just suddenly start the misfire? that would indicate a 'wear' issue. what do the plugs look like? Do they all look the...
Not sure what you mean by "wiring kit", but a '77 FJ40 is damn simple. Run jumpers to the coil and see if you get spark and trigger it manually. then jump power to the coil but use the dist to ground it (you can close the points manually to do...
If you have a high voltage spark at the coil, but not at the distributor, then the coil wire to the distributor center is bad. If there is no spark at the spark plugs, then the rotor / distributor cap or spark plug wire are bad.
My 2 cents--usually valve stem seal issue will show up upon startup-blue smoke-goes away as soon as engine starts heating--not seen the smoke after getting to op temp--but if they are leaking really bad, might see the smoke on hard accel?
With the engine off, can you look down the carb with the throttle blades open and see if the intake has oil in it? You might have to pull the carb to see. With the engine running remove the oil fill and see if there's any blow by/smoke coming out.
I usually do my valve adjustment and timing before i do the fine tuning, but I also have to go back and fiddle with timing while adjusting the carb.
1) I forget the socket size, I use a crank handle. Plenty of other ways to turn the flywheel.
B)...
Now that is a good question--a good clue might be if the FSM says to coat the bolts w/sealant before installation, that might mean the holes are through---
Think both previous posters(Mark and Nate) are saying the same thing from different perspectives--bottom line is when vac drops sufficiently, the power valve opens and gives more fuel=more power
Think the purpose of this external-or "ballast" resistor is to help dissipate heat from the coil(it is a big resistor--but only has 1.3 to 1.7 ohms resistance)-thus bypassing the resistor would potentially subject the main coil to higher heat...