Real Time Help: ICS needed along I-70 / I-15 Utah (3 Viewers)

[NookShneer]

Having issues with starting and keeping the truck running.

Have diagnosed that the ICS is failing and wondered if anyone along the route home from Solid Axle Summit might have a spare I can buy from them.

Headed out today and will be traveling W on I-70 to S on I-15 stopping in the Zion Area tonight. Tomorrow headed through Las Vegas to LA area.

Text or a call would probably be easiest with the driving. 805-807-4314

Thanks

Dave

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Having issues with starting and keeping the truck running.

Have diagnosed that the ICS is failing and wondered if anyone along the route home from Solid Axle Summit might have a spare I can buy from them.

Headed out today and will be traveling W on I-70 to S on I-15 stopping in the Zion Area tonight. Tomorrow headed through Las Vegas to LA area.

Text or a call would probably be easiest with the driving. 805-807-4314

Thanks

Dave

hi Dave ,

just seeing this now ..

if i can help here by having a USPS Express Mail EMS Overnight parcel mailed out Tomorrow / Wednesday to you anywhere in the lower 48 ........?

- if your in a place like Las Vegas or it's general suburbs or RENO for Example , this WILL be a Overnight , in your hands next day Senero ....

- if your in a more than Rural-ish somewhat or more Remote location then a 2-day - to in your Hands Scenario is going to be the case .....
Fell

- i HAVE dealt with these type of VEHICAL-DOWN URGENT-MATTER needed parts needs more then a few times , when it comes to a
Fellow Member either loosing there 1997 - Older Vintage TOYOTA Key / Keys completely , or in-fact locking there only one inside the TOYOTA by mistake , then hitting the Power DOOR-LOCK button , then shutting-in that only single 90999-
- i will assume the needed ICS / FCS is for " 1983 FJ60 #FitzJ60 " ..... 2F 2-wire Part # 21062-61060 ...

- i have my KIT here below in-hand and ready assist you if i can , and if so i will Dave
- Remember 1 super important TECH. Fact here , if you have or plan to remove the BAD current 21062-61060 , that the TINY iddy-biddy o-ring on the tip will mostly get scored up and tear apart upon the 8-10 full rotations of the removal step by steps , so take careful note visually of how much of it , ALL , or NONE comes out too , the remainder , if any will be minced up bits inside that bore or cavity ....

- if so , you will need to think for a moment the best way to back-flush out that internal bore to reverse flush it out of any possible bits , i would use the the NO-RESIDUE behind type Circut-Board cleaner here , as opposed to a harsh brake klean if required to do this .

- i have learned the hard way that it's indeed possible for that possible left over Rubber O-ring Bits to then enter the 21100- further inside , and cause all sorts of random FUNKY results of both base idle and too drivability ones ....
- use chap-stick or other Lip Balm like Vaseline on the new - o-ring upon install , it will rotate in like a dream , and not get hung up or scored ,,,,,.
- the kit includes the new crush ring , and i CAN enclose a spare O-ring for the tip too if you like ....
- the harness side Female mating connector housing is included , just in case ........ just to be safe ...
PM me if any of the above cen help , or you have other possible suggestions i did not cover of think of ?
Kindly ,
Matt


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[NookShneer]

Hey Matt,

Thanks for the offer. I made it home after grounding and getting power to the ICS. Looks like my Emissions Computer gave up on me.

 

[Spike Strip]

@Engineer8000 repairs the emissions computers with new components, if you want your deceleration circuit to work.

 

[Engineer8000]

Take a look at the solder connections where the connector meets the circuit board, not such a problem with the 81+ that I have seen but worth checking. I have seen the transistor that drives the FCS go bad. Also need to check to be sure the flyback diode has not shorted or is not now open.

 

[HemiAlex]

Just ground the green wire.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Hey Matt,

Thanks for the offer. I made it home after grounding and getting power to the ICS. Looks like my Emissions Computer gave up on me.

Did you end up using the one I gave you for a spare? Was that one broken too?

I did say “no guarantees” lol

 

[NookShneer]

Did you end up using the one I gave you for a spare? Was that one broken too?

I did say “no guarantees” lol

Same result with both computers. I’m not sure if it was related to that or something else.

Ran ground to carb body and power to the ICS and was able to get it to run normally.

I need to get that computer boxed up and back to you. Btw you should start to reflow them and keep a refreshed stock on hand for people like me.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Same result with both computers. I’m not sure if it was related to that or something else.

Ran ground to carb body and power to the ICS and was able to get it to run normally.

I need to get that computer boxed up and back to you. Btw you should start to reflow them and keep a refreshed stock on hand for people like me.

I found a couple more in my stash.

 

[Engineer8000]

 

[CruiserTrash]

@NookShneer I was going to say @Engineer8000 already does this!

@Engineer8000 You're seeing the primary failure point is cracking of the harness connector solder joints? Doesn't seem surprising considering those are subject to two separate vibration forces. Also interesting that there's far less flux on these than the flasher modules I modify for use with LED blinkers. Those are Denso so I wonder if the "computer" was sourced from a different OE vendor who built things differently. In working on old amplifiers I see the acidity of flux occasionally cause board conductivity & heavier oxidation after about 40-50 years. The flasher modules from 60 Series trucks are just shy of that so I use flux cleaner to clean them up real well before putting them back together - hopefully I'm getting ahead of the issue. Time will tell.

@NookShneer Hit me up if you still want an LED flasher by the way.

 

[Engineer8000]

Those pictures are after cleaning. About 50% have cracked solder connections at the connector.

 

[adamsfly]

Same result with both computers. I’m not sure if it was related to that or something else.

Ran ground to carb body and power to the ICS and was able to get it to run normally.

I need to get that computer boxed up and back to you. Btw you should start to reflow them and keep a refreshed stock on hand for people like me.

So I'm experiencing a similar problem where the truck runs fine and then just dies. I let it sit for awhile and it starts right up. It sounds like you "hot wired" the solinoid bypassing the computer? And if so what is the down side to doing this as a permenant fix assuming its a switched hot wire?

 

[Spike Strip]

So I'm experiencing a similar problem where the truck runs fine and then just dies. I let it sit for awhile and it starts right up. It sounds like you "hot wired" the solinoid bypassing the computer? And if so what is the down side to doing this as a permenant fix assuming its a switched hot wire?

The 'Downside' is you defeat the deceleration circuit (see above) which closes the ICS when vacuum suddenly spikes because you've quickly closed the throttle (let foot up on the skinny pedal). This normally would quickly lean out the mix to prevent backfire when unburned gas hits hot CAT converter. In practice, with RFG, I've never seen a properly tuned, desmoged FJ60 backfire with the ICS grounded to bypass the Emissions Computer. Won't effect smog test either as (at least in Kalif), they test at a steady 15 and 25 mph on the dyno.

To ground the ICS, it's the WHITE wire out of the ICS grounded to the carb body, not the black.

 

[HemiAlex]

I’ve got mine grounded and bypassed. It’s been like that for years. Key on, solenoid on. Key off, solenoid off.

 

[CruiserTrash]

The 'Downside' is you defeat the deceleration circuit (see above) which closes the ICS when vacuum suddenly spikes because you've quickly closed the throttle (let foot up on the skinny pedal). This normally would quickly lean out the mix to prevent backfire when unburned gas hits hot CAT converter. In practice, with RFG, I've never seen a properly tuned, desmoged FJ60 backfire with the ICS grounded to bypass the Emissions Computer. Won't effect smog test either as (at least in Kalif), they test at a steady 15 and 25 mph on the dyno.

To ground the ICS, it's the WHITE wire out of the ICS grounded to the carb body, not the black.

Last week at Solid Axle Summit I had exactly three backfire events and this has me scratching my head. All three were after long steep climbs with my foot to the floor, crest the hill, then let off the gas to engine brake down the backside of the hill, and POP! Maybe I should start another thread…. Sometimes I’m like a dog who sees a squirrel in threads. Something comes along to grab my attention related to some totally other thing that’s been on my mind and away I go.

 

[Spike Strip]

Sounds like exactly what the decel cut circuit is supposed to prevent

Its operation is in the emissions FSM

Last week at Solid Axle Summit I had exactly three backfire events and this has me scratching my head. All three were after long steep climbs with my foot to the floor, crest the hill, then let off the gas to engine brake down the backside of the hill, and POP! Maybe I should start another thread…. Sometimes I’m like a dog who sees a squirrel in threads. Something comes along to grab my attention related to some totally other thing that’s been on my mind and away I go.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@Spike Strip I know I need to revisit the FSM on that issue, just haven’t had time yet. Rookie mistake asking about a problem without consulting the Bible first

 

[Spike Strip]

Only meant there's a more detailed explanation in the FSM that gives the Emissions computer input variables should you want to explore the issue further.

But it might be easier to install a known good ECM to see if the backfire goes away. If you have the rest of the smog equipment installed