P1444/P1445 - Secondary Air Injection System (1 Viewer)

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Those suck. Like really bad. The techs here hate doing them too. A lot of Toyota trucks have this system and these are by far the most crammed in and difficult to get to. The pipe/valves on the back of the engine near the firewall are really tight and hard to get back in place. Good on you for being able to do it yourself. I know if mine ever went out I would definitely let someone else do it.
 
Just bypass it. Tada!
 
I've a few question I'm hoping this thread can clear up or help me with.

First; I read that as A/I system is failing a turbo like winning sound will be heard on cold start for first minute or so. Will a DTC be store in this event?

Second: What does activate a DTC for A/I?

Third; About how much are parts if I want to just fix to factory spec?

I ask because I'm buying and 06 that I've not heard from cold start. But I have run heath check for DTC. Could be seller is setting me up!

I see more than one person here has said they have a VVTi in the 05 with the A/I. Is this in GX?
I've the 05 FSM I don't see VVTi at all in the USA 2UZ-fe in a Land Cruiser.
 
I've a few question I'm hoping this thread can clear up or help me with.

First; I read that as A/I system is failing a turbo like winning sound will be heard on cold start for first minute or so. Will a DTC be store in this event?

Second: What does activate a DTC for A/I?

Third; About how much are parts if I want to just fix to factory spec?

I ask because I'm buying and 06 that I've not heard from cold start. But I have run heath check for DTC. Could be seller is setting me up!

I see more than one person here has said they have a VVTi in the 05 with the A/I. Is this in GX?
I've the 05 FSM I don't see VVTi at all in the USA 2UZ-fe in a Land Cruiser.

It is very common to hear a winning air pump when it is starting to go out but will not necessarily cause a trouble code.

Usually the first codes you will see are valve stuck open codes.

Parts and labor to replace the system are typically in the $2800-$3500 dollar range depending on model.

All 2005 to 2009 4.7L 2UZ-FE engines are VVT-i. 2005 is the crossover date for VVT-i on that engine and the first year they also got the secondary air injection system.

I would check the time from last reset or make sure i drove it and let it sit overnight to experience a cold start. Either way we have a solution for you.
 
It is very common to hear a winning air pump when it is starting to go out but will not necessarily cause a trouble code.

Usually the first codes you will see are valve stuck open codes.

Parts and labor to replace the system are typically in the $2800-$3500 dollar range depending on model.

All 2005 to 2009 4.7L 2UZ-FE engines are VVT-i. 2005 is the crossover date for VVT-i on that engine and the first year they also got the secondary air injection system.

I would check the time from last reset or make sure i drove it and let it sit overnight to experience a cold start. Either way we have a solution for you.
Thanks. Please can you give me what is parts alone; both the bypass option and to replace to factory spec?
 
Someone on GXOR posted that this works as a replacement for OEM: Amazon.com: Dorman 306-010 Electric Pump: Automotive

Review on Amazon:
By dnguyen on January 19, 2015
Verified Purchase
Had the dreaded P0418 and P2445 code on my 2005 Lexus GX470 which seems to be common in the 2005+ ULEV 4.7 Toyota motors found in the Tundra, Sequoia, LX470, GX470, V8 4runners. Read online about not going with the Toyota/Lexus mark up and replacing the $400+ Toyota pump with the GM part and this worked wonderfully. (It's the exact same pump, just take the old wire harness from the old pump and put it on the new one. Part is probably from a common distributor) Thank you to fellow owners at Tundra Solutions and the guys on Club Lexus for knowledge sharing. Saved $300+ on the part to pass onto my mechanic for install cost. No more codes, my old pump failed at 115k.
 
So did you buy the Dorman and swapped it out?

No, the guy in the review I posted above did. I haven't had one fail yet.
 
Mine didn't fail, but I got the kit and hooked up the wires anyway
 
Someone on GXOR posted that this works as a replacement for OEM: Amazon.com: Dorman 306-010 Electric Pump: Automotive

Note that the engine codes in this thread are for the secondary switching valves. The air pump is part of the system, but a different issue. The GM pump is a good option for pump failure and mentioned in the initial post. It's the switching valves at the back of the engine that are, in my opinion, not worth even thinking about trying to replace. @hewitttech to the rescue.
 
Note that the engine codes in this thread are for the secondary switching valves. The air pump is part of the system, but a different issue. The GM pump is a good option for pump failure and mentioned in the initial post. It's the switching valves at the back of the engine that are, in my opinion, not worth even thinking about trying to replace. @hewitttech to the rescue.
Ahhh interesting. I was unaware of those.
 
Note that the engine codes in this thread are for the secondary switching valves. The air pump is part of the system, but a different issue. The GM pump is a good option for pump failure and mentioned in the initial post. It's the switching valves at the back of the engine that are, in my opinion, not worth even thinking about trying to replace. @hewitttech to the rescue.
Those valves are the least expensive and easiest to get at. So why would you not consider replacing them?
 
Those valves are the least expensive and easiest to get at. So why would you not consider replacing them?

In post 1 and 12 of this thread, there are pictures posted of the valves. On the GX470s the valves are impossibly located at the back of the engine up against the firewall with almost no access. I don't believe they can be removed without lowering/moving the engine. Are you saying these are easy to replace on a GX470?
 
Yes they are on LX or LC, and have room for socket wrench between bolts & fire wall. It easier with intake off, but doable with intake on. You remove the wire harness housing 2 bolts, just like when taking off intake. This allows the harness to lift just enough to reach bolts securing each valves to the water by-pass joint.

See post #224 Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration)
It shows replacing valve gasket with intake off.

For some reason Toyota dealers are replacing a lot of the water by-pass joint gaskets with T-belt jobs. The valve gaskets as well, where applicable.
 
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Thanks @2001LC. Great work on your 100. While I've not done this job on a 100 series, I can only comment on my experience with the GX470. The firewall-to-engine spacing is different between the 100 and 120, and on my GX470 there was not enough room. Perhaps others will have different experiences, but for future readers of this thread trying to decide about tackling this job - I did not have room between the firewall of the GX470 and the switching valves to remove them. There is maybe 3/4" or a finger-width between the firewall and the valves. The engine needed to move forward and/or down to create the clearance necessary to remove the bolts. Hope this helps others.
 
My bad, I though I was in the 100 section. Not sure how I even got here, guess I was rooting around on the issue and search brought me here.
I went back and looked at the OP picture and I see what you men about fire wall. The 100 is tight but not like that bad.

So difficulty in R&R the factory A.I.R stuff the main reason guy do the by-pass or is there other reasons too?

I've been trying to understand why do the block off!

I mean if a DIYer can install the block off kit, they can certainly swap out parts. There is also a side benefit in those that must pull the plastic intake manifold of the VVTi. The factory installed gaskets are leaking and need replacing or at least most do in the 06 & 07 2UZ-fe VVti from what I can tell & seen.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread. I was going into limp mode on my '08 gx470, installed the bypass kit, cleared the codes and back in business. A few weeks later, the dash lit up and I'm getting codes P0031 and C1201. The truck is still driving great. Do any of you think this is related to the bypass issue? Thanks for your help.
 
Probably just a coincidence. There would be no connection or causality for an O2 heater ckt. code. A really common tune up/ maintenance item beyond 100k miles.
Replace both upstream O2 sensors as a pair will keep the fuel trims on both banks as close as possible to each other.
 

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