Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (3 Viewers)

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks. If that's the case, I should be good to plug the lines.

Just out of curiosity, it that still available in some form/market? This engine came with an AC compressor, adding AC would be nice. It might be easier to install an aftermarket system, rather than source factory parts though, but the idle-up device would be necessary with either.

 

[OGBeno]

Any idle solenoid from any Camry would work well too. Just like the pick-up truck solenoid works as a 500% cheaper solution to any vacuum xfer split case.

Toyota didn't deviate much during that time period.

 

[61Mk+]

It takes a lot of homework to find out the info, but one of the reasons Toyota is one of the world's largest car manufacturers is production cost reduction which, in a case like this (thanks for your input, Beno), means commonality of parts. The hell of it is to find the right parts that fit, and their numbers.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Spent a while working out the heater lines, thought I could use the 75's hard line, but there was some interference with the turbo, so I ended up using a hard line off the 3B head laying in the back of the BJ60.


Once I got that figured out, put it on the crane, and put the clutch on then stuck it in the engine bay. Had to pull the bracket off the firewall that held the P.S. reservoir, had to pull the P.S. reservoir off the engine as it hit the brake booster (I was worried it wouldn't clear), got it all snugged up to the bell housing, but couldn't get the motor mounts to line up...my other concern was the hard line coming off the water pump and the power steering pump, and both were issues. The hard line was hitting the frame and the power steering pump return line fitting hit the steering shaft.

Pulled the power steering pump and the hard line off and managed to get it sitting on the motor mounts, bolted up to the bell housing. thought about spacing the steering gear out off the frame so I can use the power steering pump. But after some consultation with another cruiserhead, think I'll try blocking off the power steering pump hole in the timing cover and use the pulley driven pump off the 3BII, I'll need to pull the crank pulley off the 3BII and hopefully the pump bracket bolts up and lines up, also need to find a spot for the reservoir as well.


Looks like it belongs in there...just need to plumb it up, sort out the power steering and should be ready to fire it up soon.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Digging around the internets some more, maybe I can clock the gear-driven pump 180* and still use it?

14B in to my BJ73 VM...

- Servo pump is integrated in to the engine. This was a tight fit so I had to turn it 180 degrees and I had the local hydraulics firm make new high pressure line as the pump is located on the left side of the engine close to the power steering...


Keep on cruising
Best regards from Norway
Kjetil




[/font]
View attachment 117131

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Okay, think I can rotate the pump 180*, cut the return fitting line and flip it 180* as well, then get a short high pressure line made that goes to the gear box. I should be able to fab up a mount for the reservoir to go directly above it, off where the fuel filter mounts on a 3B. (which is also about the same configuration as an 80-series power steering set-up)

Also need to use the fan and fan clutch off the 3BII as it is 'taller' than the 14BT, the 14BT fan hits the return line fitting when it's flipped 180*.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So, the 'wing' I left on the oil pan prevents me from putting the starter on...Doh!

I guess I'll be cutting some sheet metal off the inner fender. I knew I should have kept that other 3B oil pan I had. I DO NOT want to pull this pan off, and replace it.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So no response on my question about cutting a hole in the inner fender...I was hoping to get a photo of an inner fender on a 13BT powered 70.

Spent the day getting the power steering worked out. I ran out to a friends and grabbed the high pressure hose, reservoir and cooler off a wrecked 80. (thanks Eric) , ended up just using the high pressure hose, it worked out well. The banjo fitting is the same diameter as that on the 14BT pump. Used the BJ60 return line fitting and part of its hose to get back to the relocated reservoir. Had to tweek the reservoir tubing just a bit to get the hoses to line up, but it turned out well. Also, as I mentioned before, I used the 3B's fan and clutch to clear the P.S. pump.

I also plugged off that VSV valve that was on the high pressure fitting not sure what that was for, maybe changing the steering rate based on engine rpm/speed?

Since I had to remove the section of hard-line coming off the water pump and going to the lower radiator hose, the lower hose I bought won't work. I hate to install the old 3B's hose, so I ordered a new one, I'll have all new heater hoses, as well as new upper and lower rad hoses.

Also ordered a 2.75" silcone 45, a 'joiner' fitting and some t-bolt clamps to get the air-box plumbed to the turbo.

The last puzzle, will be to figure out how to get the throttle cable hooked up. The 3B's bracket may have to get modified/copied/relocated.

Next on the 'to-dos' will be to get that starter installed.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Found this thread on another site, seems the starter can be pulled out of a 13BT powered RHD 7* series.

Removal of starter motor on 13B-T in Cruiser - Offroad-Express

I pulled the bell-housing brace, pulled the bell housing bolt, pulled the clutch slave, loosened the motor mount bolts, hoisted the engine up an inch and tried every-which-way...even used two different starter nose-cone configurations (one with the mounting ears inline with the motor and solenoid and one with the mounts perpendicular to them) and there is no way in hell the starter will go in from the bottom.

Time to trim the inner fender.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

As much time as I spent dicking with the starter, I could have just pulled the oil pan and swapped it out with the 3B pan...so that's what I ended up doing this a.m.

Starter is in, filled it with oil, changed the fuel filter and bled the lines, had two loose lines on the injector pump that I wish I would have checked prior to installing, but once I got the lines bled, the air out and remembered to hook up the fuel cut-out solenoid wire, she fired right up.

14BT first run

 

[coldtaco]

Nice like the turbo whine

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks, that's an open manifold, probably won't be as noticeable once I get the exhaust done. I'm debating on whether or not to put a muffler on it. Not sure it's necessary.

Got the lower radiator hose yesterday afternoon, so once I get a bracket fabbed up to mount the throttle cable, I should be able to put the radiator back in and drive it up to the exhaust shop.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got the throttle cable hooked up. I looped it between the driver's side battery and the fender, then back towards the injection pump. Conveniently, there was a mounting point left open from where that lower radiator hard line was attached. I robbed the throttle cable mount off a 3B valve cover laying in the back of the BJ60 and viola.

Put the radiator and lower hose in, had to rotate the power steering lines on the steering box a bit more outboard as they fouled the lower radiator hose.

Cleaned up and painted the fan shroud, and managed to get it installed, way easier to install one of these on a 70 than a 40 series.

 

[DoubleNickels]

Yeah man! Great progress, congrats.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Two steps forward, one step back, I'm afraid. I can't get the clutch to engage. The stock slave cylinder is not adjustable on this. I used the new clutch that came with the engine. I don't know what brand/model the clutch is. The fingers looked bigger and the friction disc was thicker (its new) than the 3B clutch.

Before I figured out the slave rod wasn't adjustable, I pulled the boot off and fluid ran out, so the slave was leaking. I filled the reservoir and bled it, removed the boot and don't see any fluid leaking, the fork is moving, just not far enough for it to shift into gear while running.

Next, I robbed an adjustable slave rod out of the 60 and put it in place of the non-adjustable rod. I ended up adjusting it out to almost max before I was able to shift it into gear with out grinding.

Even though it went into gear, it felt like it was slipping (I was just going a few feet forward and back as I still don't have it back together to the point of being able to drive it) like it was adjusted too far. This may be just my pessimism though.

Something is not right. As there is no inspection cover, the only way to check it out is to pull it apart again.

Any advice? What clutch should I be using? Research says...it depends on the specific swap. I'd think a 13BT clutch would work. Do I need a different slave? Or a different throw-out bearing?

Paging @Spallet as I know he did this specific swap recently.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

As Yogi Berra once said "It's like Deja Vu all over again."

I ordered up a new Aisin 13BT clutch, pressure plate, disc and throw-out bearing, as well as a new slave cylinder. All components that were spec'd together from Toyota and should work within the geometry of my bell housing and with the clutch fork.

I will compare 13BT the disc and bearing with the new 14BT disc and bearing once I have it out. If they are the same, as I suspect they are, then I'll return the extra 13BT stuff as If I keep it on the shelf it will get lost before I'll need to replace the clutch again...I'll just have to eat the 20% restocking fee.

It would be nice to figure out how to make this combination work, but that would require bench mounting everything, taking measurements, and sourcing parts the may or may not be available. I know the 14BT was mated to a H55 in some applications, I don't know if the bell housing used in those applications is similar to what I have.


how does a clutch diagphram work? - Bing video

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So...I'm a dumbass. The clutch disc was installed backwards. In my defense, I pulled the engine out of the BJ60, pulled the clutch to check the pilot bearing and rear main seal, then re-installed the clutch as it was installed by the P.O.

Since I had them, I put all the OEM clutch components in. This is the proper orientation of the disc.

I found the fuel cut-out solenoid wire hanging from a thread (like two strands of wire) and fixed it. Also changed out and bled the clutch slave cylinder.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got everything buttoned up, filled it with coolant and took it out for a test drive...I think I need to get some stacks and tow mirrors I hit 130 km/hr in 5th and was still pulling (up the off ramp) and had to stand on the brakes to stop, I was NOT expecting that.

Still need to sort out the old glow-wiring (have the Wilson switch wired to the glow-screen) but would like the factory pre-heat light to function as it did before as well.

Also need to get the exhaust done, right now I have about an 18" pipe pointing straight down to the ground...just need to figure out where to tie it into some stacks.

 

[DoubleNickels]

...just need to figure out where to tie it into some stacks.

View attachment 1323142 View attachment 1323143

Jesus, Dan. That's the funniest video I've seen in a long time. Glad you're up and running!

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got the exhaust done yesterday. I thought about buying a kit from Summit and doing it myself, but decided to just take it to a shop and be done with it. I had them run it along the factory route, and re-use the factory hangers as I've not had good luck with the aftermarket hangers lasting more than a year or two.

Went with 2.5" and no muffler, it's pretty quiet.


Also had them bend up a short section for the intake piece that goes from the air cleaner to the turbo. The silicone piece I bought doesn't line up very well. I tried to source the OEM 13BT stuff, but it's all 'Discontinued, no longer available'. I need to weld a nipple onto it and run the valve cover vent hose into it and I think I'll be 'done'.