Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (1 Viewer)

[Owyhee Jackass]

Also got the other half of the power steering reservoir bracket.

Another puzzle will be the supply and return lines for the power steering box, to mate to this system. May not tackle that until the engine is in the 75 as this location for the reservoir is suspect...I've scoured the interwebs for a photo and haven't seen one showing the reservoir here in a LHD LandCruiser...concerned that it may hit the brake booster on the LHD 75 series.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Not much progress. I got the new upper rad. hose, some new heater hose and the adapter tee.

Need to order an exhaust kit, probably go with 2.5" from Summit.

Also need to decide on gauges. Boost, EGT and a Tach. (weird that it doesn't have a factory tach) I think I'll get 2 1/16", VDO, black face, white letters and mount them in the dash above or below the stereo. They are expensive! I need to sell some more crap to fund these last few things. I know if I don't get them now, and proceed with the swap, it may not get done. Not sure I really need them, as I'm not planning on 'tuning' this up from the factory set-up.

I might just drill and tap a hole for the EGT and plug it, then I could proceed with the install as it'll be way easier to do that part while on the engine stand than later after it's in the vehicle.

I may have the donor 60 sold to a friend of my neighbor and I think I've got the H55 and tcase sold that are in the 60, I just don't want to finalize the sales until I'm done with the swap...just in case I need something off the 60.

 

[ChuckB]

I'm working on the tach issue myself. "Mi Toyota es Fantastico" - Spanish BJ73

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks, Chuck. You're lucky to have found one of these in a junkyard. I thought about doing something similar, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to swap a used cluster in (and not sure I would be able to find one at a reasonable price) and I know I can get the aftermarket gauge.

 

[ChuckB]

Totally understand. I'm running into a few hurdles. We'll see how it plays out.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I pulled the turbo off to drill and tap the manifold for 'future' EGT probe. Probably wasn't necessary as the amount of metal shavings that went into the manifold was minimal, just a bit of dust and that was it. Drilled out the bolt-hole that secures the bottom of the heat shield to the manifold.

Used a 21/64" bit

Tapped it with an 1/8-27 NPT tap. Thought about going 1/4-18, but my tap was all buggered up and the 21/64 bit fit's really well into the existing bolt hole, not pilot bit required. you can get EGT probes in both sizes as well.

Not sure how I'll secure the heat shield now, couldn't find (didn't look that hard) a pipe plug with a flanged head on it. I'll worry about that later.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

"Had' to order a new turbo-to-manifold gasket as well as new gaskets for the turbo oil lines. I may have been able to get away with re-using the existing gaskets, but I figure it will be easier to put new ones on now, rather than later after the engine is installed.

Add another $85 (after shipping) to the cost of the conversion...

17278. Gasket, Turbo To Exhaust Manifold
17278-58020 1 $47.09

15407B Gasket(for Turbo Oil Inlet Pipe) 2 $1.53
90430-12025

15471 Gasket, Turbo Oil Inlet 1 $7.31
15471-58010

15472 Gasket, Turbo Oil Outlet, No.1 1 $5.61
15472-58011

17410A. Nut, Exhaust Pipe Set Stud Bolt 3 $0.83
90179-10070

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Looking at the plug on the injection pump and it looks the same as what's in the BJ75 but the 14B-T has three wires and the 3BII just has one.

14B-T Plug

I got a bit worried for a second (electrical stuff does that to me, esp. since I have no elctrical diagrams for the 14B-T)

But then got on the inter-webs, googled a bit and, of course, found an answer on *Mud.

The electrical fitting will almost certainly be a fuel cut solenoid,all the denso rotary pumps seem to have them.To test them they need to make an audible click when 12v or 24 v is applied. You can connect them direct to a battery for temporary starting or testing.

Some rotary pumps also have tacho pick up with wires like the one in the pic below...

Thanks @roscoFJ73

Looks like if I could find a BJ7* gauge cluster with a tach, I may be able to get it to work with this pump. but that sounds like another project. For now I think I'll concentrate on getting the engine pulled out the the 75.

 

[ChuckB]

I didn't look back to see, are you 12 or 24V? Depending on the answer and how my little experiment goes I might have a spare cluster or some parts at least for you.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

24V

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I'm down to one bolt left before I can pull the 3BII, I'm letting it soak in some penetrating oil. It's one of the bell-housing bolts, the housing is alloy and the bolt it steel, I think the threads are galled, or it was cross-threaded.

Found a new wrench, a co-worker loaned this to me, Snap-on FBF936. It worked well getting to the bolts on the top of the bell housing. I went to Sears and bought the Craftsman version.

Finally got the starter pulled, the fancy new wrench didn't help with that one. I had to put every extension I had together to get the top bolt to break loose.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

The starter/backing plates are different. Here's the 3BII starter on the 14B-T.

And here's the starter that came on the 14B-T, which says 12V on the motor, so I assume it was the starter from the BJ60 that the engine was in...but maybe the backing plate is different?

So I either need to swap out the motors on the starters, or change the backing plate and I need to verify that the rest of the bell housing bolts line up.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

This 14B-T was mated to a cast bell housing in the BJ60, so I'm guessing they used the backing plate from the old 3B.

Found this in another thread; thanks @67azcruizr.

I believe I have a few items that will help you out.

I see you have a 7X Series Aluminum Bellhousing from a 13B-T/3B. The End Plate from a Cast Iron Bellhousing is different, and used a smaller Disc.

Here are the two End Plates stacked on top of each other. As you can see in the pictures, the TOP 5 mounting holes ALL match up.
View attachment 1304116View attachment 1304117

So it looks like I'll need to pull the flywheel off and swap backing plates (using the 3BII plate from my 'old' engine).

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Got the 3B pulled today.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Swapped the backing plates and motor mounts.

I ordered an M12x1.25 tap to chase the threads on the bell-housing hole that was galled and it hasn't shown up yet...a bit disappointed in McMaster as they're usually pretty quick to deliver.

The turbo gaskets are in customs in S.F., so they should be here Monday or Tuesday. I wanted to get the 'new' engine in, but will hold off 'till i get those and the tap.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I got my turbo gaskets and re-installed the turbo last night...so glad I waited to do it on the engine stand.

Should be able to install the engine this weekend, if not sooner.

Looking over the engine for 'loose ends' and I still don't know what to do with two wires and two or three vacuum lines. I'll try posting in the diesel section, see if anyone there knows what they're for.

It's the two small wires ( one black/yellow one red/blue) in the top of the photo, they go to what looks like a VSV (vacuum switch valve?) on the injection pump. My gues is AC idle up, and I don't have the solenoid, so my plan is to not hook up the wires and plug the vacuum hoses, but I'd still like to know for sure.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Looks like that is a VSV. Not sure it's purpose, part number description is 'Valve Assy, Vacuum Switching'

Also not sure what the device is that I have the question mark on, looks to be mounted to the firewall in the diagram.

I'm guessing my other two mystery vacuum lines might go to the 88691 device in this diagram.

 

[OGBeno]

AC idle up solenoid.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

AC idle up solenoid.

The two wires? The two vacuum lines? The device on the firewall I pointed to with the question mark? Or 'All of the Above'?

 

[OGBeno]

Sorry. Device on firewall and vacuum lines.