Monstaliner Bedliner (9 Viewers)

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Right in the instructions: "If working in an unheated garage or warehouse space, do not apply if temperature is expected to drop below 50°F. After the coating had been installed, do not expose to temperatures below 50°F for the first 12 hours after application.”

I’m guessing that if it was “about 50 degrees” when you did it, that it dropped below that at night and screwed things up.
Right and the extra moisture from the storm probably messed up the cure. @ih8everything how does it look a few weeks later?
 
Right and the extra moisture from the storm probably messed up the cure. @ih8everything how does it look a few weeks later?

I'm happy with it. In the last week or so it has cured and hardened up some more. I will use it as is for awhile and if needed I'll scuff and spray another coat in the summer when it warms up.

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Without reading 36 pages has anyone tinted it to get a true freeborn red?
 
Without reading 36 pages has anyone tinted it to get a true freeborn red?

Page 25. Reevsci's 62 is painted with Lady in Red, which is the closest Monstaliner color to Freeborn.
 
Yes i have a sample of "lady in red" thats there made color id be wanting it a bit closer to 309 i think
 
Yes i have a sample of "lady in red" thats there made color id be wanting it a bit closer to 309 i think

I'm hoping to get the color additive to the neutral monstaliner kit I picked up to do the same thing.
 
I thought that you could not add the color base to Monstaliner. You can do it for Raptor I know, but I thought that monstaliner did not recommend this.
 
I thought that you could not add the color base to Monstaliner. You can do it for Raptor I know, but I thought that monstaliner did not recommend this.

Nope... Monsta (AKA MagnetMan) has stated that you can add the straight color pigment to the neutral liner to color what would be your OEM color.. At the very beginning of the thread he comments on exactly what to ask a paint shop for (pigment without anything else in it) and what your general mix ratio should be (basically the same as their color added... 8oz to 1 gallon if I remember correctly).
 
I sit corrected. Carry on.
 
I sit corrected. Carry on.
Not necessarily wrong.. as you are correct that you cannot just "add the color base" like you state. Just that if someone goes to do this they have to be a bit more specific as the "color base" is the color with some other items (from my understanding) where as the "color pigment" is simply the pigment alone with no other items like the base. Kinda like calling a TRUCK and a 4x4 the same thing, it is partially true. Both can be trucks but a truck is not always a 4x4.
 
Nope... Monsta (AKA MagnetMan) has stated that you can add the straight color pigment to the neutral liner to color what would be your OEM color.. At the very beginning of the thread he comments on exactly what to ask a paint shop for (pigment without anything else in it) and what your general mix ratio should be (basically the same as their color added... 8oz to 1 gallon if I remember correctly).



Each pigment/toner is a different amount per color choice. A red will more than likely be 8-10 ounces where a quicksand is approx 5 ounces IIRC. I've added NASON and PPG pigment/toner to the Monstaliner tintable and it is quite easy and turned out good. Just make sure it is THOROUGHLY mixed.

JUST TONER... NO BINDERS

Here is the Toyota Quicksand 4V6 toner match.

J

http://www.monstaliner.com/documents/Tinting_ML_with_Auto_Paint_Tints.pdf


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@reevesci so do you think that darker colors will require more pigment/toner than a lighter color??? For instance going with the FJ60 8B4 vs. a 861 Medium Blue?
 
@reevesci so do you think that darker colors will require more pigment/toner than a lighter color??? For instance going with the FJ60 8B4 vs. a 861 Medium Blue?


Depends on how the colors saturate its mix in. Take black, it takes very little to start changing its add in to make it black. Every color is different. The 8B4 is dark in comparison to say the quicksand above or the 861. If you break down the toner, there are actually 3-15 color additives to make up any certain color. If memory serves there are 8-9 colors in the 8B4 mix from when I painted Marley.

As far as a color match, the best thing to do is run a test on the toner and liner material together. It gives you a step by step in the PDF linked above. It will be pretty darn close to OEM. If you are trying to match a previous ML color job, it might get tricky due to mix time, application temps, exact amounts previously used. But, to blend ML to a OEM paint, IMO, you won't ever notice a true variance between the two. As far as a full on ML job, the "metallic" OEM paints will never look the same, but WILL have the same base tones.

Hope that makes sense.

J
 
Thanks J. The plan was once the weather warms up to take my now spare door and do a test coat on it with a pint to see. From there I realize that the colors will never be an exact match but what I am looking for is the proper base tone/color. Basically what the true color would look like if it was a bit faded and scuffed up.
 
Going to be cutting the rust out of the rear fenders mostalining my girlfriends 1986 4Runner early this summer as the clear coat is mostly gone and after 31 years it needs some love. Most of the body will be red while the fender line down will be grey and the topper will be grey. Has anyone used monstaliner on fiberglass and is there any special prep needed besideds the scuff and MEK treatment? Would like to start on it now but being february in northern colorado the weather could turn at any moment so going to hold off till may-ish... Will post pics this summer when we get it done but here are some before pics (I couldn't find any photos with it clean, thats how you know you have an awesome girlfriend)

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Going to be cutting the rust out of the rear fenders mostalining my girlfriends 1986 4Runner early this summer as the clear coat is mostly gone and after 31 years it needs some love. Most of the body will be red while the fender line down will be grey and the topper will be grey. Has anyone used monstaliner on fiberglass and is there any special prep needed besideds the scuff and MEK treatment? Would like to start on it now but being february in northern colorado the weather could turn at any moment so going to hold off till may-ish... Will post pics this summer when we get it done but here are some before pics (I couldn't find any photos with it clean, thats how you know you have an awesome girlfriend)

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Yes,

What surfaces will Monstaliner bond to?
Monstaliner will bond to most clean/dry surfaces, including painted or primed steel, wood and fiberglass. Prepping the surface is critical for best results. See the “Installation Guide” included with the kit.


http://www.monstaliner.com/documents/ML_Install_Guide_Complete_71013.pdf

J
 

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