Is there a specific torque on the bearing lock nut upon installation?? Or is this a gudentite situation?
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A hand impact driverWhat damn enginerd thought it would be a good idea to use a phillips head set screw?
So I have one that wont come out of each side, if I force it any harder I am going to strip it.
Any suggestions?
A hand impact driver
I have to remove them all the time on household trailers. Half of the time they strip out and the other half they break. We always replace them with torx.Worked on one side, completely destroyed the other.
Now I can finish the side that came out
and I can get off the fence about what to do with the other
I still say, seriously, a fricken phillips head, cant think of a worse design option
quick somebody, make a replacement part with a torx, allen, square head, or 8mm
Im still trying to find JIS screw drivers and bitsI have been corrected, the screw head is JIS
Looks like a phillips head to the eye but with slightly wider curved grooves
diabolically designed to think you have the right tool and assure destruction of the screw head to add hours of fun to you relatively easy project
In spite of my sarcasm a more serious thank you to the board member who clarified for me, hope this helps somebody
TO EASILY INSTALL THE NEW SEAL USE OLD RACE UPSIDE DOWN(NARROW EDGE DOWN) AND FLIP OVER RACE DRIVER TAPS IT RIGHT IT EVENLY AND FLUSHNow you can put the hub back on the spindle. You can also pack the outer bearing and push that into the hub as well.
Note the plate lock nut has a tooth on it. This sits in the spindle groove at the 12 o'clock position. Note there are four holes in it as well - these are important. Note they are are around 2, 5, 7 and 10 o'clock positions.
Put the lock plate in, and then spin the nut onto it. Once it gets seated, tap it until it's tight, then back it off again. There's (surprise!) a bit of controversy about the preload settings on this... however, you don't have many choices. Here, the phililps screw has to get into one of those four holes. I use a small tool and put it into the screwholes to find where the nut aligns.
Then I set the nut to the highest preload I can without going crazy, then backing it off to the next available screw slot. You'll know if you got it wrong because the philips screw won't go all the way in - they need to seat into the lock plate.
If you need to put in new studs, now's the time! Please use a tap and re-tap the holes to clean out the junk that's probably in there.
To actually seat the studs, I use the double-nut method. Put two nuts together, then turn until the stud seats. Use locktite if it makes you feel better.
Put the cone washers back in, put your washers on top of that, and torque the nuts down per FSM (26 ft-lbs). Put your disc brake hub back on, and properly tighten those bolts. Then it's back on with the tire... rinse, lather and repeat for the other side!
Wow 13+ year resurrection.
The rear axle seals should sit flush with the outer edge of the axle tube....dont go jamming them down into the tube.
. I got on them with my JIS Impacta screwdriver and can't get them to budge. Next step an impact driver?
Also, is there room in there to use the hex nut and star washer like on the front end? Seems to me that would be a better solution...