How-to: rear axle rebuild (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

can't u lock it manually through the plate the sensor is mounted to. put it on jacks stands . take the plate off. undo the bolt holding the lock fork and push it manually. have someone turn one tire until it locks. I've never done it myself but I'd think you could.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Danny.
 
Thanks guys.....I concluded the best option is to get off my lazy a$& and simply hook up the lockers before attempting the rear axle PM.
 
This oil seal inside the spindle

Thanks.

image-2436012599.jpg
 
You must be talking about fartory lockers with regards to locking the centre before removing axles. With my air lockers, I've removed the axles heaps of times without locking the centre first. Can't see why you have to lock it with factory lockers.
 
You must be talking about fartory lockers with regards to locking the centre before removing axles. With my air lockers, I've removed the axles heaps of times without locking the centre first. Can't see why you have to lock it with factory lockers.


Yes, factory lockers. I have no experience with the axle not going in properly, but you certainly want to avoid this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/579974-rear-axle-service-issues-cant-get-axle-back.html

And that's why it's recommended to lock the rear (if you have them) before you do the service.
 
great write up, this has been very handy the last couple days as I've been tearing my cruiser down for some new gears. I decided to do the rear axle while I was in there. I am having trouble getting the race off the hub. Any ideas?
 
More elbow grease... or a bigger/heavier hammer!

I used a set of punches from Habor Freight. I guess you're really supposed to use a brass drift ... but then again, if you're replacing the bearings, who's saving the races?
 
More elbow grease... or a bigger/heavier hammer!

I used a set of punches from Habor Freight. I guess you're really supposed to use a brass drift ... but then again, if you're replacing the bearings, who's saving the races?

As I was, its the rear oil seal I can't get out!
 
I clamped my rotor in a vise to remove the seal.
I think others bolted it back onto the wheel.
You gotta do this before you separate the rotor/hub though.

Also, use the 8mm threaded holes to push the drive flange off. Beats a chisel any day!

Excellent write up! I used it when I did mine. Check out Darkness's cheat sheet too!
 
Question. Is it recommended to pack grease between the two bearings, in conjunction with packing the bearings too?
 
If you're talking about the void space in the hub between the bearings, I have always found those packed with grease almost flush with the bearings so have continued to do the same.
 
Question. Is it recommended to pack grease between the two bearings, in conjunction with packing the bearings too?


Don't think it's is necessary but why not? I packed as much grease in there as humanly possible. I just don't want to open it again for a long time.
 
I would also like to add that after getting the races out and the hub cleaned up, I baked it at 250* for about 45 min, and without letting it cool, I put the new races in using the Harbor Freight race driver mentioned above. Made the race install positively easy.
 
I did end up packing grease between the two. Didn't see the heating/cooling ideas for setting races, but I have another side to do. I'll give it a shot then. Thanks. Rob
 
Nice thanks. I have the same axle and was struggling to find a good thread on it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom