How much should I pay? (1 Viewer)

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Quite likely this truck is JDM.

Yes, there is more rust than expected.

If you are not familiar with body repair, you may want to get somebody (with experience in body work) to tackle the rust.

Some rust spots need a patch. Others may need a replacement panel.

From the windscreen back, you can use panels from newer trucks, namely 71 Series if you have to replace them. The front clip is a bit harder to source.

Make sure you apply all the rust protection coats you can. And keep your truck well-oiled after that.

Regarding the engine, the search function is your friend.

The repairs ahead make excellent occupational therapy. And a lot of fun.







Juan

 

[Triona]

Wait you bought this without knowing the above pictures/condition before purchase??

I got the price way down on it when I saw them! Let me know if you have any tips please

 

[Triona]

Hello,

Quite likely this truck is JDM.

Yes, there is more rust than expected.

If you are not familiar with body repair, you may want to get somebody (with experience in body work) to tackle the rust.

Some rust spots need a patch. Others may need a replacement panel.

From the windscreen back, you can use panels from newer trucks, namely 71 Series if you have to replace them. The front clip is a bit harder to source.

Make sure you apply all the rust protection coats you can. And keep your truck well-oiled after that.

Regarding the engine, the search function is your friend.

The repairs ahead make excellent occupational therapy. And a lot of fun.







Juan

Thanks very much for being supportive! Luckily I got the price way down so I’m still happy with her. I know there’s a lot of work to do but the inside is pretty clean and very happy with it..I’ll keep yous updated..do yous have any tips on tackling superficial rust?

 

[AirheadNut]

JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market, i.e. a model that was originally sold new in Japan and has since been exported to somewhere else in the world.

 

[Triona]

JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market, i.e. a model that was originally sold new in Japan and has since been exported to somewhere else in the world.

Thanks, I googled it after asking

 

[Devils Paw 80]

There’s a bit of rust but not severe..

It's not great. Hopefully the frame isn't badly rusted?

 

[Triona]

It's not great. Hopefully the frame isn't badly rusted?

No they’re the worst parts. The area in front of the radiator is quite rusted also unfortunately…I missed that part

 

[JuanJ]

Thanks very much for being supportive! Luckily I got the price way down so I’m still happy with her. I know there’s a lot of work to do but the inside is pretty clean and very happy with it..I’ll keep yous updated..do yous have any tips on tackling superficial rust?

Hello,

There are rust conversion treatments available. In a nutshell:

1. Remove loose rust.
2. Get the treatment ready (mix it, if necessary)
3. Apply it.
4. Let it work as per instructions.
5. Flush it.
6. Clean the surface.
7. Apply a degreaser. Clean again.
8. Spray anti-corrosive paint. Two layers if you can.
9. Apply paint and finish.

You can use a thick anti-corrosive coating for the frame and drivetrain. Opinions vary on the type (and brand) of coating for the frame. Choices aside, it is good practice to keep all the underside well oiled, especially if you are going to use your truck in winter on salted roads. Oily film is an additional protective layer against corrosion.






Juan

 

[OGBeno]

Seems like you are committed at this point. This will be a good learning experience for you in all things associated with antique automobiles.

I’d recommend reading as many of the posts from @AirheadNut and @GTSSportCoupe as possible since both have religiously (and masochistically) maintained long-term relationships with both the L series family of engines (which you have) as well as the platform you have acquired.

Highly recommend downloading the Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) for your engine and chassis. These will be imminently important guides for your future relationship with this truck. These documents can be found in the “Resources” tab at the top of the webpage. Download, print out, bind and start reading. They will be your bibles.

Good luck. Carpe diem.

 

[Felde]

Oh wow. You got yourself a project..
My approach would be:
1. Start with a thorough inspection of the body:
Remove all interior trim and floor cover / carpet. You will note cover panels that give access to internal cavities such as rocker panels and sides.
Get a borescope and inspect from inside.
Remove all exterior trim and carefully inspect from outside and under: Use magnet and poke into suspect areas. Pay close attention to safety relevant parts like body mounts and spring- and shock-mounts.
Get to know what's all rusted in not that obvious places.
Then make a game plan. Don't rush things. The rust had been there for a long time. Unless it' safety relevant, you have plenty of time to make a good plan, considering time, money, resources, building knowledge and acquiring parts.
If, after that inspection, you are still committed to keep the truck and get the bodywork done, go for 2.
Else: Sell it and don't put more money into it.

2.: x2 to my earlier statement: Focus on getting it roadworthy and registered. Get fun out of it. This is important! The bodywork will provide you a lot of headaches and downs. You need that fun to keep committed to the challenge. (Trust me, I have been there).
Treat the rust with interim measures focusing on preventing it from spreading further. No cure, just stopping it:
I have good experiences with Owatrol oil to soak rusty spots for exactly that: Stopping it. (There are similar products).
Patch the holes temporarily to prevent water getting in. Any nice sticker does that job.

Go over the rig mechanically: Baseline engine, cooling and brakes, change all fluids, swap air and fuel filters, address any leaks, check gearboxes and drivetrain and tires. Check play of propshaft joints, bearings and steering gear. If not faulty, I wouldn't even get into those at this time. Also leave gearbox, tranny, diffs and clutch alone by now, if not faulty or leaking.
Inspect the wiring and harness. Remove any rats nests and doggy assemblies. Assure proper fusing and grounds.
Register it, drive it, have fun and post some cool pics here.

You may want to post more pics of the entire rig and spots of concern here. (This now becomes a build-thread, I guess)
But be warned: The guys here (including me lol) might return a lot of feedback.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[Triona]

@Triona Congratulations! Likely your version of the Prado has a mechanical injection version engine called the 2LT-II. It has no EGR emissions equipment. The mechanical injection and lack of emissions makes it much more reliable and easier to work on. The more problematic engine everyone refers to is the 2LTE. If you post a picture of the engine I could confirm which you have.

I have the 2LTE in an LJ78, but made a bunch of upgrades/repairs to increase reliability. It's been my daily driver for 12 years now with no problems that ever left me stranded. Although the oldest vehicle I've owned, it has been the most reliable and I would not hesitate to drive it long distances to remote places at any time.

Hi, can you tell by looking at my engine whether it is a 2LT or a 2LTE ? Thanks

 

[Triona]

@Triona Congratulations! Likely your version of the Prado has a mechanical injection version engine called the 2LT-II. It has no EGR emissions equipment. The mechanical injection and lack of emissions makes it much more reliable and easier to work on. The more problematic engine everyone refers to is the 2LTE. If you post a picture of the engine I could confirm which you have.

I have the 2LTE in an LJ78, but made a bunch of upgrades/repairs to increase reliability. It's been my daily driver for 12 years now with no problems that ever left me stranded. Although the oldest vehicle I've owned, it has been the most reliable and I would not hesitate to drive it long distances to remote places at any time.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Post a photo of the VIN plate. It's on the upper left side of the firewall behind the engine (right side looking at the photo you just posted).

 

[AirheadNut]

That’s a 2L-TE, the “EFI Diesel” sticker on the crossover pipe gives it away. Someone has made an odd modification on the valve cover too, I wonder what kind of sensor that is?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

View attachment 3559774

View attachment 3559775

Yes, as mentioned above, that is a 2LTE. So this must be an imported from Japan model rather than Euro model.

Although your truck must have seen quite a bit of salt (road salt? ocean?) to be looking this way, it doesn't mean anything about the actual functionality of the motor. Maybe it's in good condition internally. How it starts is the biggest indicator of condition. Turn key to on, wait 8 seconds, then start. If it fires up easy and with little smoke first try, then compression is good, glow system good, and injection system in good shape with no leaks. If it takes lots of cranking, missfires for a bit with a ton of smoke, then there will be work to do.

The sensor noted on the valve cover is truly odd; not really sure about that. Take some close pictures and maybe someone can figure it out.

The radiator looks like it's been re-cored with the largest core I've ever seen. That is a really good thing!

A couple of the first changes I always recommend for these motors is remove EGR system and throttle plate, and install an 82C thermostat (found on all the later 2LTE models; is cooler than original 88C one). But also change oil, check glow system, air filter, fuel filter, rad hoses, etc.

 

[abdsalar]

While the presence of rust might have deterred me from recommending this purchase initially, given that you've already acquired the vehicle, I encourage you not to be overly concerned. Embrace it as a rewarding project, and I'm confident you'll derive satisfaction from the restoration process.

 

[TMort]

Are you looking at a Jeep AND a Landcruiser? What kind of Jeep? I love the older ones but still think LCs are better. =)

Edit: Never mind, just read the later posts. =)

The Jeep is a 2.4L and has 204,000km on it. I do have another car which I can use while doing up this one but I was hoping to have the Prado as my full time vehicle at some point. I know Toyotas are very reliable but am I being naive thinking that this Jeep could be my day to day car? Is the resale value on these jeeps going up or again am I seeing it all through rose tinted glasses because it’s a Toyota and I’ve put too much faith in them? :/

 

[Triona]

Are you looking at a Jeep AND a Landcruiser? What kind of Jeep? I love the older ones but still think LCs are better. =)

Edit: Never mind, just read the later posts. =)

Yes I was given out to about that, won’t be making that mistake again

 

[TMort]

Congrats on your purchase! I bet you are over the moon! =)

I’m looking to join the LC club soon. I found an 84 Fj45 Troopy (in Germany), for under 20k euro with no rust so pretty excited...AND I have my Tacoma as my dd while the Troopy is being worked on.

Yes I was given out to about that, won’t be making that mistake again

 

[abdsalar]

No they’re the worst parts. The area in front of the radiator is quite rusted also unfortunately…I missed that pThere's no need for concern regarding that aspect, as it can be easily replaced.