Here's our 77 build so far, we've finally started taking things off, lol (1 Viewer)

[ouroutdoorfamily]

Here's our 77 build so far, we've finally started putting it back together

Our 1977 FJ40 Project

Wow, I'm finding out that there's not much to these simple little 4X4's.

Last night I finally got into taking off the fenders and panels to get to the engine bay and do some clean-up.

We hope to get the tub off in the next week or so as well as the engine and tranny. We want to get the frame to get it painted and sealed along with the under side of the tub.

We are so excited, I will hopefully begin daily driving this after Christmas

 

[Slow Poke]

I know it looks simple right now. I thought the same when I took mine apart. Most of it I put into Ziplock bags and labeled. Most of it I took digital pictures of. Some of it I thought " this is obvious" and didn't do either. The baggies were great for keeping hardware organized. Thank God for digital pictures! Saved me at least 20 times. Some of the stuff that was " obvious" became really difficult. Save every gasket you can on that hard top. In fact, save everything you can. Most of the after market stuff you can buy will be a disappointment. However I do like my dash cover ( just a cap that goes over your old cracked dash), seat covers, HFS front bumper, 4+ greasable shackles, and the bezel replacement from CCOT. When you pull that tub consider putting eye bolts in the roll bar screw holes. I tried wrapping rope around the sides when I lifted mine and bent the tub a little.

Good looking group you got there! Never would have thought to-to's and land cruisers would be such a natural fit.

 

[cosfj40]

Wow, I'm finding out that there's not much to these simple little 4X4's.

Everyone thinks that while initially doing the tear down. I certainly did. Later I found out that impression is incredibly wrong. Pray you don't run into much rust on the body bolts and the oil pan has been removed sometime in the past decade.

 

[ouroutdoorfamily]

Yeah, we are hoping for the best, but we'll know a lot more after this weekend. So far though everything except the ambulance doors is going smoothly.

We have sprayed and soaked any bolts we know were getting into a day ahead of time. I know we are ordering or getting all new hardware for as much as possible. so far the top is out back, under a tarp, so I haven't seen that gasket...

From underneath things look good, but I'm sure looks can be deceiving at times.

We are doing a full restore, we are doing a functional restore. The seats are history already, my wife just ordered the Corbeau's today, she's more worried about this thing lastig than she is about it being as it was in 1977, but she does want to try and do both, lol

We also decide last night to go with 33X10.5 tires instead of 33X12.5's as this will be a daily driver, and after reading some of the other posts that seems to be what others think as well.

We are ordering black OE wheels instead of white though

Yes, the neighborhood girls along with mine like wearing the To-To's and playing with what they call "The 4 Wheeler", lol

 

[CruiserStuff]

Looked through your photos - looks like you're off to a great start. Use Kroil or PB Blaster instead of WD-40 (which is a lubricant, not a penetrating fluid).....you'll have much better results. For bolts/screws that you strip, cut the tops off with a thin cutting wheel and remove the hinge (or whatever piece). The bolt/screw that is left can be grabbed with a pair of vise grips and turned (after soaking with PB Blaster and letting it sit....hit it with a hammer a few times to break up the rust and to let the fluid get in there).

That seat frame can probably be saved.....amazing what sand blasting (or media blasting) will clean up and, onced painted or powder coated, looks brand new.

Keep up the good work!

 

[CruiserStuff]

Oh, BTW, the stock steel rims come from the dealership in black.....but that is only primer. The correct color for your year truck is gray. I just painted a new set for my '76.....here's a link to the thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/328816-were-factory-steel-rims.html

 

[ouroutdoorfamily]

Yeah, the only thing we've "thrown" away so far is the door panels, they were ripped and cracked, everything else I will keep, try and clean up and either keep as a back-up or sell/trade.

Any idea how to push back in my old bumper, (look at the first photos), however put that tow bar "thing" on pulled the bumper out slightly, but I don't think we could mount one of those tire/cooler bumpers on with it like this... perhaps we'll just buy a new rear bumper from Man a Fre

 

[CruiserStuff]

That piece that is bent is not a bumper.....it is actually the rear frame cross member. The tow hitch that is there is not from the factory and should (IMHO) be removed. Mine is bent where the PO did something similar. I'm thinking that an auto body shop with a frame straightener could get it straight again, but I have no idea how much $$ that would be....

 

[wbb72fj40]

looks like your rig is in good shape overall. alot better than mine.

get rid of that wd40 and get you some P/B blaster your knuckels will thank you later.

You will probably find alot of little PO gifts as you go along after a while you
will just laugh call him a moron AGAIN!!! and just figure put how to fix it.

 

[ouroutdoorfamily]

One thing the PO did was to truck bed liner the inside... that is probably why the tub is in very good condition, so far the only major rust found are the 1/2 dozen places in the initial photos, we're very happy so far about the condition overall.

I'll pick up some PB blaster tonight, thanks for the tip

 

[makomark]

Their used to be a guy on EBAY who sells the SS nut/bolt kits all labled, much cheaper than CCOT. Their is also a spread sheet availible on MUD that itemizes every nut, washer and bolt, it is invaluable when buying hardware. Also, do not put POR 15 under that hood. It should be wire brushed, its not even that bad. Just remove the rust and treat it with OSPHO. Then prep for primer paint. Be careful with that grinder, it can ruin your metal, it should only be used on real cancer type rust, not superficial. Use your wire brush on the end of your cordless drill before touching anything with that grinder unless you are an expert with the grinder.

 

[Leaping Deer]

Take a close look at your suspension. There is a previous owner modification that I would get corrected. There is a piece of metal used to drop the rear of the spring hanger. Looks dangerous.

 

[ouroutdoorfamily]

Yeah, there is sand paper of the grinder for now, I'm not using the stone. (Thanks for the heads up though)

Any idea why the PO would have made that mod? How would or should I get that fixed?

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

i got a bumper you can have if you want it, its aftermarket sprayed in some bedliner, i just dont like the looks of it

as for fixing your spring hanger, just use a grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the welds, id probly buy a new set of hangers. id guess it was his way of a cheap lift.

 

[Copenhagen1]

x3 on the PB Blaster. You can get it at Walmart and it is many times better than WD40. I think that is a good decision to go with 33x10.50 and stock steelies. Take a look at my build thread in my signature line to see how it will look. Good luck. It really is a lot of fun.

Kerry

 

[ouroutdoorfamily]

What does the bumper look like, thanks, that's very nice

 

[Leaping Deer]

Any idea why the PO would have made that mod? How would or should I get that fixed?

They probably did it to gain some lift along with the super large shackles. All the original parts are there you just need to remove the box tube and mount the hanger in the original position. You can see where the original rivits would mount on the frame.

I would go back to stock and go with a 2.5" suspension lift if you are looking to run a 33x10.5x15 tire. You will end up with a leaf spring with more arch to gain the lift you are looking for to fit the tires.

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

ill go take a photo of it in a minute and send it to you in a PM.

 

[antFJ]

They probably did it to gain some lift along with the super large shackles. All the original parts are there you just need to remove the box tube and mount the hanger in the original position. You can see where the original rivits would mount on the frame.

I would go back to stock and go with a 2.5" suspension lift if you are looking to run a 33x10.5x15 tire. You will end up with a leaf spring with more arch to gain the lift you are looking for to fit the tires.

i agree just remove that square tubing with some grinding.. bolt that original hanger in the stock spot with some grade 8 hardware and weld the hanger in place.

 

[77HesterSue]

I have a 1977 40 too. Your pics are inspiring! Keep up the good work.