Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (1 Viewer)

[zipastro]

Ken (and all others who have contributed),

Great job - really well done!

Few comments:

1 - One of the common screwups mechanics fail to do is liberally pack as much grease as possible into the spindle bushing. This is where all the "Grrrrr" sound posts are coming from - dry spindle bushings that just got a wipe of grease. There are criss crossing grease grooves in that bushing to hold grease. Pack this area liberally and thickly and also coat the part of the axle that runs in there. I don't see this specifically mentioned and feel it is worth it. I see you do mention "grease the splines on the drive plate" which is another common error.


DougM

Any pictures of exacly where the grease goes? I am confused and I know I probably missed this last time I was in there.

I think I also did a bone head move and used the molly grease on the wheel bearings. Are they toast? Just look for hot spots and wear when I tear them apart?

 

[KCCruiser]

Tarbe, I found the same chissle marks on mine, presumably from when the PO had the rotors replaced, did not think about then brabign the lock washer and damaging it, but I did take a file to them to remove the burs,



I had better give soem back story before the cops show up at my door, was actually a never installed reject, so no one is missing anything, got it at a garrage sale for a buck, the guy was some kind of medical supply salesman, he did tell me how much it cost, do not remeber the figure but remember it was very high, instalation is even higher, works great for installing bulb seals,

whatever it is made out of is quite durable.

In case nobody knows, that is a hip prosthesis. And I'm sure it's the most expensive tool in the picture...by a longshot, believe me. And it is titanium.

 

[psfpilot]

Pictures of Birfield Cage & Star Orientation for Assembly:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/13063-birfield-assembly.html

 

[clarkrw3]

Wow great info!! If you are switching to Chromo Birfs what is the best way to remove and reinstall the ABS ring? And are aftermarket ones now available?

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Wow great info!! If you are switching to Chromo Birfs what is the best way to remove and reinstall the ABS ring? And are aftermarket ones now available?

Just put a brass drift on it and smack it with a 3 lb hammer. It doesn't take too much to get it off. Installation is the same: brass drift and some love with a hammer. Just make sure that put it on straight or you'll be hitting it for a long time!

 

[clarkrw3]

Just put a brass drift on it and smack it with a 3 lb hammer. It doesn't take too much to get it off. Installation is the same: brass drift and some love with a hammer. Just make sure that put it on straight or you'll be hitting it for a long time!

Thanks

 

[Mirage]

thanks

 

[landcruising]

Some tips for the birf rebuild

Thanks for the great write up. It took me 11 hours to complete, much longer than the suggested 8 hours but I also spent alot of time on new rotors. It would have been much longer without some help from veterans in our sd TLCA club, a clean shop to work in, and some more special tools. I think I may have graduated to a 1/2 after attempting this. My 97 fzj80 had 110,000 miles with only the rotors and pad ever replaced as far as I could tell. I was fearing the worst when pulling it apart doubting the knuckle had ever seen any additional grease. When I pulled it open lots of grease and some soup. Here are some tips that helped me, most are probably problems created by an impact install and serviced without a torque wrench:

1. Air tools and impact are extremely helpfull for removing all the bolts.

2. It took an 18" breaker bar and consideral force to remove the brake caliper bolts.

3. Breaking the cone washers loose required more than light tapping with a brass hammer to break them loose. I would strongly suggest that anyone doing this purchase a brass hammer for the job since it was also used for seating the trunion races, and tapping the seals in place. The rubber mallet was not enough.

4. Breaking the rotor off the hub required a press to separate and the impact gun to remove the bolts holding it on. Not sure it could have been done without them but I tried.

5. The veterans simply used the tighten and feel method for setting the bearings, I will check them later for play.

6. A simple bearing packing tool was very effective getting new grease into them while pushing out the old, I think they are avaialble for $10 at harbor frieght, saved having to use solvent or gas and hand pack.

7. A good 54 mm hub socket wrench was a must. One of the lock nuts on mine was so tight I could not get a good enogh grip to remove it with a very thin stamped steel socket. I ended up using a chisel to hammer it off. Were can I get a good solid one?

8. Removing the grease cap from the flange required a chisel to remove. A good screwdriver with fine tip was not enough.

9. A vacumm pump was needed to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before pressing back the calipers. The pads were behond the sqeel tab and required a full push back to fit the 100 series pads.

10. A gear oil pump jug was used to fill the diff since I could not get enough angle on the bottle and nipple to fill it with the rods in the way.

11. would strongly recommend the pilot stud technique discusssed here. It took 2 of us to line up the spindle dust sheild ang gaskets after several tries. I found I could line them up on my lap insert one stud and carfully flip into possition with help.

 

[Ebag333]

9. A vacumm pump was needed to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before pressing back the calipers. The pads were behond the sqeel tab and required a full push back to fit the 100 series pads.

I usually just open the bleed valve and use a C clamp to push the pistons back into the calipers. Makes it pretty easy.

 

[Beowulf]

7. A good 54 mm hub socket wrench was a must. One of the lock nuts on mine was so tight I could not get a good enogh grip to remove it with a very thin stamped steel socket. I ended up using a chisel to hammer it off. Were can I get a good solid one?

A good solid hub socket or a good solid chisel?

The Craftsman 2-1/8" socket is 3/4" drive and is about a heavy and solid a hub socket as you will find. It weighs about 3# and is a perfect fit in the 80 hub. Solid for sure.

Can't help with the chisel. Don't think I needed one for the front axle job.

-B-

 

[sandcruiser]

in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/120836-knuckle-arm-studs.html
post #8, CDan gives part numbers for some needed parts, including the knuckle studs, washers, nuts, cone washers.... handy. I copied below.
Studs, 90126-12005
Nuts, 94115-71200
Flat washers, 90201-12019
Cones, 42323-60020

 

[sandcruiser]

also-- the c-clip for the birf is 90521-34005 -- (often seen as 43411C in diagram) cost estimate of under $3.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/1982-front-axle-rebuild-oem-p-ns-here.html

 

[chtucker]

Just a suggestion, maybe a word or PDF file is created so that someone could print out the instructions and work with them truckside without getting the keyboard greasy I am in the middle of putting everything back together, so maybe I am not the best editor at this point...

 

[Beowulf]

Good idea and the instructions will be fresh on your mind since you are nearing completion. I will be happy to assist in editing your draft.

-B-

 

[chtucker]

Good idea and the instructions will be fresh on your mind since you are nearing completion. I will be happy to assist in editing your draft.

-B-

Later tonight after I recuperate from my post completion hangover.. Last thing to do is run to the hardware store and get the bolt for the axles so I can put the C clip in..
Otherwise. I AM DONE!

Thanks for FAQ!

BTW is a 10mm x1.25 bolt???

 

[ppc]

Last thing to do is run to the hardware store and get the bolt for the axles so I can put the C clip in..
Otherwise. I AM DONE!

Thanks for FAQ!

BTW is a 10mm x1.25 bolt???

No need to make a special trip. Just steal a bolt from elsewhere under the hood etc. and put it back when done I've even just used a narrow screwdriver to slide the axle enough to put the clip on.

 

[sandcruiser]

On the off chance that anyone else is as tired as I was when I put the DS back together....
be sure you put the long axle on the DS and the short on the PS. The short one will go right into the DS .... But the reverse is not true. :whoops:

Now, of course, the long side doesn't want to enter all the way. 2 hours of gentle persuasion with much care of the inner seal, but no dice

I came looking for a magic bullet on how to get it done, but it looks like everyone agrees: just patience and careful with the seal.

 

[sandcruiser]

We should include a spatula to the list of tools.... a cheap one will run you a few bucks at the grocery store/hardware store, and is much much better than grease all up in your action. Bang for the buck it is really worth it.

Also very handy to me was an extra 3/8 "thumbwheel" w/ 14mm socket. The spindle bolts are long and the hub body is in the way for just spinning a ratchet handle around in circles.

Next time around, I plan to use a cordless screwdriver or an air ratchet to spin them. Sounds petty, but there are what, 8? of them bastidges and you've got a lot of layers that have to stay in the right place.

Also on that note: I love the idea of the studs that someone made to hold the spindle sandwich together, but I didn't have an extra bolt so I just use a round file that was about 1/4" diameter and 6" long, and also a a center punch. They stick into the holes and help align everything, but try to find something at least 6" long or you run the risk of pushing it into the knuckle. I didn't manage that particular but I did get close.

I forgot to mention a weird issue I had: after I totally fudged the short vs. long axle (I'm an idiot) I spent hours trying to get the DS installed. Finally loosened the top trunion retainer bolts and the dang birf slid in like a greased fish. Not sure why that would matter... but it sure did. So if you can't seat the birf, you might consider easing up on the trunion retainers for a sec. It worked for me.

Other good tools: a cloth rag to wipe off your hands once in a while when they aren't too filthy. Else you'll kill an extra roll of paper towels.

A putty knife is nice to scrape gaskets off (and I'll bet 90% of mudders already own a putty knife).

A 5/16 or 3/8 socket can work instead of a E12 torx to get the knuckle studs on. 9mm is pretty close 8mm didn't fit for me. Using a 6pt socket will probably damage the torx splines a little, but might be worth it (it worked for me).

I didn't use a grease gun, but I'll bet that if you had one with a needle-attachment, it could really help with the greasing.

*note on bearings: I was happy to have packed all my bearings in the comfort of my kitchen table with a cocktail, whilst chatting with friends. I put them all in ziploc bags to be used later.
This is a MUCH better way to do it than trying to pack 'em when you are mid-project with god-knows-what on your hands. It won't really *save* you time, but it will streamline your project and you can prep ahead of time. Good.

Throwing the inner oil seal in the freezer for a day or two made it a tad easier to install. Still difficult, but not as bad.
Those little bastidges are a tight fit. I used a block of wood and a 3lb maul to get it mostly seated, then I used the race from the old trunion bearings, and a ball-peen to seat it further. Not ideal, but it did work.

I would have happily paid $20 for a harbor freight seal installer doohickey. I did use a big ol socket (43mm?) left over from the 60's crank nut days. It worked ok. But a seal installer would be soooo much nicer. If you would spend the money at a bar, spend it on the seal installer. Please.

I used the screwdriver-taco method to pull the oil seal. For me, it sucked sweaty donkey balls.
I used the pipe-wrench method to pull the 2nd seal. It was absurdly easy. If I heard someone recommend the screwdriver-taco method, I think I'd have to stab him in the jaw. Using the screwdriver scored my housing, took too long, was difficult and grease flew out into my eye. It was awful.

If you have a kragen/schucks/napa/autozone/PEP within 30 minutes of your home, you should really just pony up and buy a seal puller. But the pipe wrench as seal puller is surprisingly effective.

Be sure to have enough #6 around. This can be a frustrating job
But if you are savvy enough (and have another DD) you can stretch it out and make it almost pleasant, especially if you have on a frequent enough basis.

BTW: I put the new studs in @ 45 ft-lbs. I'll report back if they come loose.

Finally: Romer, thanks soooo much for this FAQ. I checked it often and it helped me immensely. This is a big job and totally within the ability of nearly anyone. But damn messy.

 

[chtucker]

Throwing the inner oil seal in the freezer for a day or two made it a tad easier to install. Still difficult, but not as bad.
Those little bastidges are a tight fit. I used a block of wood and a 3lb maul to get it mostly seated, then I used the race from the old trunion bearings, and a ball-peen to seat it further. Not ideal, but it did work.

I would have happily paid $20 for a harbor freight seal installer doohickey. I did use a big ol socket (43mm?) left over from the 60's crank nut days. It worked ok. But a seal installer would be soooo much nicer. If you would spend the money at a bar, spend it on the seal installer. Please.

The Marlin seals are a big improvemnt. CDan you stock them Slee sold me a seal installer for $13 or so... That combination made it easy to put the inner axle seals.

 

[sandcruiser]

in retrospect, $13 would have been well worth it. I'll drink at least that much to forget the hassle