Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (3 Viewers)

[Romer]

Clean off the ABS sensor and re-install it. Torque the bolts to 13 ft-lbs.

 

[Romer]

If you are replacing the rotor, the torque setting for the hub to disc bolts is 54


Pack the inside of the axle hub with grease (Should have been cleaned prior to this).

Pack the inner and outer bearings with Grease per the instructions used for the Trunnion bearings. These bearings are typically re-used unless after they are clean you notice damage.

Install the inner bearing into the hub and then install a new oil seal onto the hub. Coat the oil seal with grease

 

[Romer]

Place the axle hub with the disc side towards the spindle (Hub side out)

Install the outer bearing

Intsall the thrust washer

I took some extra time on this repack to consider common failures people have experienced after repacking their birfields:

- wheel bearings coming loose

In the past, and on this job today I had to really struggle getting one of my newly repacked wheel bearings to fully seat. When you're putting the disc rotor back on with the new grease seal on the back, it feels like you've solidly thunked it all the way on, but you may not have. I thought I had, but having done this many, many times it did not look quite all the way on and a light went on. I wondered if some are putting the thrust washer and nuts on at this point and then having problems with preload or simply getting the preload even though the assembly has not been pushed fully home. In my case, I was reluctant to grab the rotor and seriously heave on it because I'd degreased the rotors and my hands were greasy. With less experience in this exact situation, I might have continued with assembly and later the bearing would pop on and be loose. I don't know what it is that catches back there but I think it's simply the precise fit of the inner bearing on the spindle. At any rate, feeling suspicious I grabbed a couple fresh rags and really got aggressive with pushing it on. I was rewarded with a thunk and thought I'd bring this to everyone's attention.

So, I'm suggesting that the front wheel bearing installation be amended to include extremely close attention to making sure the rotor is all the way seated before setting up the bearings - up to and including some hammer blows with a brass or plastic hammer to seat it.

Just a couple observations today as I buttoned 'er up.

DougM

 

[Romer]

Set pre-load. This step has a difference of opinion. Some folks use a fish scale and some do it by feel. Most agree that the way they do it is the right one.

I'll repeat the steps from the FSM. Install the adjusting nut.

You adjust the pre-load using the 54mm socket. Torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs

turn the hub right two or three times. Torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs again.

Loosen the nut until the hub can be turned by hand.

Torque nut to 48 in lbf (Yes thats inch pounds) and make sure there is no play.

Using a spring tension gage (Fish scale) measure the pre-load. s/b between 6.4-12.6lbf. Adjust as required. You do this by hooking one end of the scale to the hub and seeing how much it takes to move the hub.

Here are two other methods:

Robbies
"This was how we did big trucks in the 80's. We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point that the nut was loose. Hand tighten, then check to see how much the washer would move back and forth with a screw driver. IF no movement then loosen, if real easy movement not tight enough. this was a trail and error until you got good at it. when it was just right you put the lock washer on then the lock nut and tighten to what ever the man spec's were. then check to see if you could move the washer with some force, not two handed force but some more force then it took with just the jam nut. Sound hazzy but works real well. I have been using this method for over 20 years (yea I am old, but big enough to wipp most) and it is what I use in the shop today. It takes a feel and it may take a couple of times doing it but will serve well. The way you would tell if it is too loose(before driving the truck) is with the tire and wheel on, with every thing on the ground and you shake the tire(from the top) back and forth and you have looseness, the bearing preload is not enough, do it over or you will have problems.
Junk you may want to put this in the FAQ section. later robbie"

Gumby/Landtank:

I think Landtank's method was the same as mine.

Tighten the inner nut to 45 lbs/ft, rotate, back off and repeat, then just until you feel resistance. Install the lock washer, then torque the outer nut to 45 lbs/ft.

I use a torque wrench for Cruisers because you need to use the socket. It's easy to get carried away with a 1/2 ratchet.

With cars and trailers I use a pair of channel locks. I've found that I get better feel for the pre-load torque.

The rear bearings do require the special alien landing ship tool.

These are discussed in this thread

 

[Romer]

Install Lock washer and lock nut. Torque the lock nut to 47 ft-lbs.

Check that the axle hub turns smoothly and the bearing has no play.

FSM says to check pre-load again with scale.

 

[Romer]

Secure the lock nut by bending one of the lock washer teeth inward and the other tooth outward.

 

[Romer]

Place a new gasket in position over the axle hub.

Apply molygrese to the inner flange splines.

Install the flange on the axle hub.

Install the 6 cone washers, plate washers and nuts.

Torque the nuts to 26 ft-lbs

 

[Romer]

Install a bolt in the axle shaft and pull it out to hold it while you install the snap ring.

Using a snap ring expander, install a new snap ring and remove the bolt.

After the drive flange is fitted and the cone washer nuts are torqued, the circlip can be fitted. Screw an 8 x 1.25 pitch bolt into the axle to pull it out and expose the circlip groove.



Install the drive plate (part cap goes into)

Go super easy on tightening the tiny nuts on the drive plate and cone washers. The torque is in INCH pounds, so easy to break right off.

when installing new drive plates (Most re-use old ones), paint them before installing them. They are not coated when new.

Coat the inside of the cap with MP grease and tap it on using a rubber hammer or a drift and hammer.

Re-install the brake caliper. Torque bolts to 90 lb-ft

during the re-installation of the caliper is a great time to replace the brake pads if required. 100 series pads last longer on the front

Re-install the tires. Make sure you torque the rims to the following specs depending on which rim you have:

Steel wheel and alloy wheel with conical seat lug nuts, 109 lb-ft.
Late alloy wheel with shank nuts, 76 lb-ft.


Don't forget to refill the front Diff with 90wt gear oil. I prefer synthetic. Re-install the Drain plug first and then remove the fill plug on the front outside of the Diff. You can accidently swap these, so be careful not to.

 

[Romer]

Repeat process on other side taking it for a test drive.

After test drive, 100 miles and some time after that.

Jack up one side of car and wiggle tire to see if tire moves top to bottom. This will give a rough test if your bearings loosened up on you.

I'd also mention the periodic check of torque on the steering arm bolts.

 

[Romer]

And most important, when your all done and have it back in the garage.

Time for step #6 and admire your work. Doing a front axle rebuild is a big job and you just saved yourself over $1000 in mechanic fees.

Hell, repeat Step #6

Here are some more links to other Front Axle Write-ups, some are already used peicemeal in here. Some are FJ40 links which are very similar:


Norm's Safari FZJ80 write up

Jim Phllips Write-up and Links

Georges Write up linked from Jim Phillips but link is bad

Morgan Fletcher FJ40 write-up

Deano Kothe - FJ40

 

[turbocruiser]

Wow! Awesome Writeup! Wow Again! Thanks fellas for all the efforts!
80's Tech Gots The Best Mods By Far!!!

 

[Poriomania]

Nice compilation!

I'd also mention the periodic check of torque on the steering arm bolts.

 

[devo]

Romer,
This write up is a knockout punch!
Thanks.

devo

 

[topend yobbo]

good write up. Could add on post #20 to use two studs loosely screwed into housing to help line all those bits up. After adding some of the bolts you remove the studs and finish with the rest.Im not trying to be a smart a#* just hope it helps an already mongrel job. CHEERS.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Great compilation Ken. Takes care of a lot of questions for people. Just one fyi, when installing new drive plates, paint them before installing them. They are not coated when new.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

You are doing a great job Ken, keep it up! This is a good write up even a mechanic can do this axle rebuild just by reading this thread. You are da man

 

[photogod]

Step #19 mentions not to get grease on the inner seal. I was under the impression that you should give a thin coat of lube on the seal before closing the assembly, yes? No? Great write up. It sure is nice to see photos of the process. Makes things a lot easier for a wrench like me.

 

[OGBeno]

Step #19 mentions not to get grease on the inner seal. I was under the impression that you should give a thin coat of lube on the seal before closing the assembly, yes? No? Great write up. It sure is nice to see photos of the process. Makes things a lot easier for a wrench like me.

I also recall reading about this and doing this myself on the front axle.

I'll try to find the reference.

 

[cruiserdan]

The seal lip should get a swipe of grease.

 

[Romer]

The seal lip should get a swipe of grease.

Thanks guys, step #19 edited. This is what makes a better FAQ, when everyone gets involved. Keep the comments coming.