FJ60+62+(Z)80+ v8 (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Got an insurance payout coming in for a light fender bender with a tree in my 100-series. Going to take some of that cash and put it towards the powertrain for the 62. Right now it is a toss up between a 6.2L & 6L80e with 120k on it or a 6L with 4L80e with no miles on it. Decisions....

Cheers

 

[cruisermatt]

Is the 6.2 all aluminum?
I would shell out for it, the 6-speed is nice.

I'm almost done with a 6.2/6L80e swap now, and did a 6.0/4L80e on the last.

 

[SNLC]

The 6L is a better deal and comes with more of what I need, like the t-case adapter. Easy to get more out of a 6L with a tune, even more with a cam. I don't need a racecar, just plenty of power to move a 6,000lbs Cruiser. I am probably going with the 6L as it is cheaper and will suit me and the 6.2L is just for my ego.

Cheers

 

[cruisermatt]

The adapter from the 4L80e SHOULD work with the 6L80e. The only difference is that the 6L80e the pan will be closer to the driveshaft as it is shorter.

 

[FloridaCruiser813]

Comes down to cast iron vs aluminum and price. I prefer the cast iron block but I would love a 6 speed

 

[cruisermatt]

No reason you can't run the 6-speed with the 6.0.

 

[SNLC]

Stuff is going to start happening in July. I sold a kind of large item that gives me a lot of cash for this build. Will be buying my powertrain, coil overs, get steering box rebuilt with the 105 shaft and um ya just get the powertrain all in it and running. So that is wiring, exhaust, piping and hoses, a radiator, shroud work, fuel tank and on and on. I would also like to get my RS front housing since I have a spare housing to cut the knuckles off of and go. Not much else I need besides steel.

I played with the frame a bit this last weekend. Cut off the RLCA mounts, cleaned the frame all up and plotted where I am making my cut. I changed my mind a lot of the cut because 5" is coming out and I am cutting on an angle not vertical. There is really only 12" to work with here, I started out with a 45* angle but didn't like it so went to 30* and then finally 25*. Hence all the marks in the pic. At 25-30* there is plenty of room and I don't get into the flared section in the frame or the axle hump in the back. I am happy with it and ready to cut now, I just need to get set up in a good place in the shop. Once the frame is cut and welded back up I am ready to make my body mounts. Still haven't figured out how I want to be lifting the body up and down 30x but that is coming soon. I decided I am not going to paint the truck. The paint on it is good, especially if I touch it up, cut & polish and Monstaline here and there. It is just not my favorite color at all but it has grown on me a little. To much work and time + $$$ right now to re-paint the whole truck when it is rust free with very few small dents.

The frame I am using, like I said, I decided to not use the frame from my 91 FJ80 I rolled and use this one instead since it was mostly prep'ed. It is from an FZJ, nothing different though except, the vin #.

I realize it looks like the angle is not the same but it is simply because the pic is taken from an angle. I have a digital angle finder to plot this and no not an angle cube.

There is a bunch of different ways you could cut this and remove the 5". Obviously, you don't really want any vertical cuts, google it if you don't know I don't really want to get into explaining it here. Most of your hotrod shops would do this more in a "Z" but since I am plating the frame on both sides after with 3/16's I don't feel the need. I may also run a plate top and bottom of the frame rails. The real issue here is if you re-use the RLCA mount. It is nearly 12" long and this section is not 12" long once you cut out 5". The way I am doing it seemed like the least amount of work, the RLCA mount will be a bit past the hump in the frame rail (rear axle) but I plan to box it in. The other way was to have to cope the RLCA due to the bend and taper in the front of the frame. Any ways after 3-4hrs of playing around with this I am happy with my decision and how I am going to do it.

Oh ya, I plan to cut it with a sawzall. If I don't like that I will use my Metabo with a cut off disc. Got to get some steel before I can extend the rear frame rails or start in on body mounts, I already got all the 3/16's for plating.

Cheers

 

[Elbert]

I think the 6.0 L is an impressive gas truck engine....

 

[SNLC]

I think the 6.0 L is an impressive gas truck engine....

I got one in a 2001 2500HD I bought new. It now has 230k or more on it. Been an excellent powertrain. Plenty good enough for me in the Cruiser.

Cheers

 

[NCFJ]

Are you getting the lift for this one?

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

[SNLC]

Are you getting the lift for this one?

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

It is very temping, it would make he job 1000x easier. I am taking a break from trucks after what I have going is done, so it wold be wasted money. Plus I am out of my shop in 6-8 months, can't justify the expense just to do this project. However, I am kind of thinking I won't have to pull the chassis in and out from under the body to many times. I am going to build the body mounts with the frame just under the body, not as a rolling chassis. Hardest part will be getting it all squared up and level.

Cheers

 

[SoCalJB]

Got an insurance payout coming in for a light fender bender with a tree in my 100-series. Going to take some of that cash and put it towards the powertrain for the 62. Right now it is a toss up between a 6.2L & 6L80e with 120k on it or a 6L with 4L80e with no miles on it. Decisions....

Cheers

I went with a 6.0L (LY6) and the 4L85e out of a GMC Savannah (think: white van). There are a few items that we didn't know until they smacked us in the face. Passing along those important details for the next guy not to have discover all these...

Oil Pan: As noted the oil pan must be the one from a "van" or Camaro for clearance. Summit sells them for $180. Even with a lift kit you will want the extra clearance.
Trans/t-case adapter: Advanced Adapters is the only one on the market that we could find, its $900 but it really did the job.
Exhaust manifolds: Headers are always an option but they eventually fail or become warped and leak. Trust me, I have tried everyone on the market for all sorts of applications- always the same results eventually. Therefore, I wanted longevity and iron manifolds provide this. So, we sourced a set of Cadillac CTSV "OEM manifolds" on eBay for $300. Alternatively, I would go with the ones that Hooker makes, Summit sells them for $430. These would have been better than the CTSV ones but they where not offered at the time we built the FJ62.
Engine Mounts: We went with generic LS (hot rod) weld-in brackets. They are stiff and offer limited vibration isolation. If you care, I would recommend that you look at as-close-to OEM mounts as you can with rubber or some sort of dampening in them. The hot rod ones allow all the engine vibrations to pass onto the rest of the truck, annoyingly.

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[cruisermatt]

I had a similar day today! Except mine went to scrap. Lol.

 

[SNLC]

Very happy with how easy and quickly it came together. Not the best surface (gravel) or set up but I made it work, no room in the shop right now. It is within .1* and under a 1/16" from being perfect, square ect ect. I can live with that, tomorrow start making frame plates.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Not bad for a splice......

And with that done I made plates for the frame.....

Yup, stoked on it. Just took a bunch of time on the grinder and plasma cutter. Doubt this will ever fail, it is extra strong now.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[cruisermatt]

That is probably the strongest point on the entire frame. And I would want it to be, considering that's where it was cut in half and put back together!

 

[SNLC]

I am pretty stoked, I feel like the bulk of the work is done on this chassis. Extending the rear frame rails will be a snap, making engine and trans mounts will be nothing. Now making x12 body mounts will be some work but it shouldn't be near s much time on the grinder as I have spent thus far, I dislike the grinder if you can't tell!

It is right on the money at 108" for the wheelbase. I just need to buy some c/o's and I can make this a rolling chassis. I am feeling like it is pretty cool to have an FZJ80 frame that is nearly ready for an FJ62 body.

Cheers

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Great job on the frame. You're making it look easy.

What's your plan for the frame mounts - using rectangular tube like Manu?