Sure the patrol has a purse, right between them two clamps is where you put your money!
FJ60+62+(Z)80+ v8 (2 Viewers)
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Question(s): My rear hatch and tail gate are kind of beat up along with the license light. Looks like somebody backed into a pole and it put a crease through all three of these pieces. I have got a line on some really clean rear barn doors. How hard are they to fit??
I like a tail gate for one main thing, cooking, otherwise it is a pita to crawl over it and access the back of the truck. I do like to sit on my tailgate but I always seem to have a camp chair within arms reach too.
Also got a line on a set of rear sliding windows. They are original and supposed to be in great shape. Any issues with these? Prone to leaking? Parts not available for them? I read something about flat ones are no go but curved are the bomb. Are flats aftermarket or some years did Toyota make them flat? The ones I am looking at appear to be curved.
Cheers
I like a tail gate for one main thing, cooking, otherwise it is a pita to crawl over it and access the back of the truck. I do like to sit on my tailgate but I always seem to have a camp chair within arms reach too.
Also got a line on a set of rear sliding windows. They are original and supposed to be in great shape. Any issues with these? Prone to leaking? Parts not available for them? I read something about flat ones are no go but curved are the bomb. Are flats aftermarket or some years did Toyota make them flat? The ones I am looking at appear to be curved.
Cheers
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I certainly have spent a bunch of cash on OEM/NOS parts both Toyota and Nissan. These clamps didn't hurt the wallet at all though.
Cheers
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Besides gutting the doors, I am holding off on that till last minute, all that is left to tear down on this truck is the heater stuff in the dash.
More than half of all the factory sound deadener peal right off, I suspect due to sitting outside in the Rocky Mountains the last 5+yrs is why. No complaints here, the rest will be easy to remove with the heat gun and a 3in1.
Cheers
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Oh ya and here is a 1967 Nissan Patrol frame I am working on, frame off resto for the 67 Patrol. I just got done coating the inside of this frame with Rust Bullet, messy bitch of a job! You can see my 62 in the background so still a Cruiser in this pic!
Like I say, messy messy but being a fully boxed frame, besides dipping or cutting open the frame no other way to do it.
Cheers
Like I say, messy messy but being a fully boxed frame, besides dipping or cutting open the frame no other way to do it.
Cheers
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And the best addition to my shop in the last 5+yrs!
No idea why I didn't buy this sooner. It really is a must have for anyone doing their own painting and it rocks hard for grinding too. Black boogers are no more!!
Cheers
No idea why I didn't buy this sooner. It really is a must have for anyone doing their own painting and it rocks hard for grinding too. Black boogers are no more!!
Cheers
Keep the post coming...Luv it!
When you refer that you got parts from Japan... is that a special supplier that has unavailable parts?
When you refer that you got parts from Japan... is that a special supplier that has unavailable parts?
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Not really "special" no. I just use Amayama. Certainly got good stuff there, just got an OEM 62 outside mirror assembly on there for well under $200. I think I also got the 60/62 rear license light assembly on there for a screaming price and that part is supposed to be NLA, cost me less than I am getting quoted for used ones!
So in my book it is a worthy place to buy parts. Amayama searches Japan and UAE, I get parts from both countries when I buy from them. Also on their site is parts books which tie back into the website and you can search non-US models.
Cheers
And the best addition to my shop in the last 5+yrs!
View attachment 1167488
No idea why I didn't buy this sooner. It really is a must have for anyone doing their own painting and it rocks hard for grinding too. Black boogers are no more!!
Cheers
Could you provide some specs for your mask?
Thanks
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I really didn't want to tear it down this much but I am committed now. Reason I took it down this far is because the heater needs a re-fresh and I wanted to make sure no mice had made a nest anywhere in here. I would have rather left the wiring harness in place but it was soooo much in the way and would be much more in the way as I move forward. I am not removing the sound deadening Toyota put on the firewall and I am not going to paint the firewall behind the dash. I will paint it on the engine bay side though. This FJ62 has been sitting outside (wrapped with a tarp) for more than the last 5yrs with no windshield in it. I am happy to find everything is in good shape still.
Hows this for a nice rust free frame? This is for sale too btw!
Cheers
Hows this for a nice rust free frame? This is for sale too btw!
Cheers
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I dont know what engine you going to drop in there, but now that you are this deep into it, I would def put some sort of sound barrier on top of what is already there.........
Also, if the headliner is off.. you should address the metal bows (3 of them).
These are supposed to be glued to the roof, but most likely are not.
Mine rattle when im hauling ass on the washboard roads. I always wonder where all the clacking was coming from.. now that I cut the roof open know what the deal is.....
BTW you can add another bow to the ceiling. If you have one laying around....
I have them all here and will be tossed out if nobody wants them....
Also, if the headliner is off.. you should address the metal bows (3 of them).
These are supposed to be glued to the roof, but most likely are not.
Mine rattle when im hauling ass on the washboard roads. I always wonder where all the clacking was coming from.. now that I cut the roof open know what the deal is.....
BTW you can add another bow to the ceiling. If you have one laying around....
I have them all here and will be tossed out if nobody wants them....
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So lot's of ideas floating around in my head regarding paint. I think I have decided though to go with the traditional FJ62 two-tone paint scheme. Although the lower half will be done in bed liner, most likely Monstaliner and maybe tinted. I am an earth tone kind of guy and really dig grays, charcoals and the like so that is very likely the colors I will be using, exact shades not decided on yet though.
You often read about how 60/62's rust easily and people complain that these trucks were designed not to withstand decades of moisture (or worse) without rotting out. Many threads and builds here on Mud where you can find guys having to do rot repairs. Well, I got to say I think Toyota did an excellent job of rust proofing these trucks. Right now I am as deep as I have ever been into an FJ60/62 in original form. Every single seam is sealed on these trucks, top, bottom, inside and out. On top of this very good primer was used. And lastly all body cavities were sprayed from the factory with a wax/oil based rust proofing compound. Inside thew rear quarters and doors on this 62 this rust proofing wax is still very much alive and well. Not only that but it was originally applied fairly thick. Granted this truck came from Georgia and was a soccer mom Cruiser but you can't argue with the fact it is 28yrs old and all the original rust proofing wax is still present and in great condition!
I really could just re-fresh the paint on this truck and am temped to do just that. I literally don't need to do anything to the inside of the truck in terms of paint. Thing is, I am just not a fan of the blue, I know lot's of guys love it but it is to loud for me, like I say I am an earth tone type of guy. On top of this I figure, hell it has lasted 28yrs, why not give it enough life to live another 30+yrs!? And thats just it, I am painting for the long term here, not just because I don't like the blue. I do have a tiny bit of seam sealer blowing out here and there on the truck, mostly the roof gutters. And I want to be able to run this truck hard for years and not worry a bit about rust. Ya know, camping on the beach for weeks type of exposure to harsh elements. So where it needs it the truck will get new seam sealer and all cavities are getting cleaned, then Rust Bullet applied and then fresh wax/rust proofing compound.
Cheers
You often read about how 60/62's rust easily and people complain that these trucks were designed not to withstand decades of moisture (or worse) without rotting out. Many threads and builds here on Mud where you can find guys having to do rot repairs. Well, I got to say I think Toyota did an excellent job of rust proofing these trucks. Right now I am as deep as I have ever been into an FJ60/62 in original form. Every single seam is sealed on these trucks, top, bottom, inside and out. On top of this very good primer was used. And lastly all body cavities were sprayed from the factory with a wax/oil based rust proofing compound. Inside thew rear quarters and doors on this 62 this rust proofing wax is still very much alive and well. Not only that but it was originally applied fairly thick. Granted this truck came from Georgia and was a soccer mom Cruiser but you can't argue with the fact it is 28yrs old and all the original rust proofing wax is still present and in great condition!
I really could just re-fresh the paint on this truck and am temped to do just that. I literally don't need to do anything to the inside of the truck in terms of paint. Thing is, I am just not a fan of the blue, I know lot's of guys love it but it is to loud for me, like I say I am an earth tone type of guy. On top of this I figure, hell it has lasted 28yrs, why not give it enough life to live another 30+yrs!? And thats just it, I am painting for the long term here, not just because I don't like the blue. I do have a tiny bit of seam sealer blowing out here and there on the truck, mostly the roof gutters. And I want to be able to run this truck hard for years and not worry a bit about rust. Ya know, camping on the beach for weeks type of exposure to harsh elements. So where it needs it the truck will get new seam sealer and all cavities are getting cleaned, then Rust Bullet applied and then fresh wax/rust proofing compound.
Cheers
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Well s***! You just made up my mind on the headliner. I have been really debating on a new headliner. The last week I have kind of been leaning towards replacing it but have also really thought about leaving it in place and just cleaning it up. Looks like I am now leaning much more to replacing it.
As far as sound deadening, ya I plan to add more. Don't really want to use dynamat though, it was in my 80 and had been in there for years. When I tore down the 80 I really cursed that friggin stuff! Just a major mess and the foil on one side liked to cut up my hands too. I was kind of thinking something like second skin as a first layer and then a traditional Toyota style woven mat on top of that and under the carpet. Although I am probably going vinyl floor on this truck.
What is your suggestions Frank for sound deadening?
Cheers
I used the E-dead sound deadning stuff, but they are no longer in bussiness...
Stuff was good I guess, but I have nothing to compare it to, only the before and after and it sure made a difference.
I know some peeps here use quiet crap and other foam that is sold from McMasterCarr (heard this is good stuff to deal with road noise).
Sorry can be of much help, but Im sure someone will chime in with more knowledge on this...
I did use the second skin spray stuff on the firewall and tranny tunnel with great results.... I wish I should of laid it thicker tho'.
Stuff was good I guess, but I have nothing to compare it to, only the before and after and it sure made a difference.
I know some peeps here use quiet crap and other foam that is sold from McMasterCarr (heard this is good stuff to deal with road noise).
Sorry can be of much help, but Im sure someone will chime in with more knowledge on this...
I did use the second skin spray stuff on the firewall and tranny tunnel with great results.... I wish I should of laid it thicker tho'.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
I'm using the Eastwood Thermal and Acoustic barrier on mine. It's an undercoating kind of thing, sprayed with a stutz gun.
It's a pretty new product, but the thought of having sound deadening and a little more thermal insulation--especially that won't be attractive to mice (like the original jute lining) is what made me order some.
It will be a few months before I can give a report on how it works for me.
Dan
It's a pretty new product, but the thought of having sound deadening and a little more thermal insulation--especially that won't be attractive to mice (like the original jute lining) is what made me order some.
It will be a few months before I can give a report on how it works for me.
Dan
How is your garage built? Could you rig up a chain hoist from the structure beams to raise the body on/off?
The peel and stick foam from Raamaudio is pretty good, I've used it and it is damn sticky. The spray deadeners seem better suited than the cut and stick but I've never been in a position to use them.
RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products
The peel and stick foam from Raamaudio is pretty good, I've used it and it is damn sticky. The spray deadeners seem better suited than the cut and stick but I've never been in a position to use them.
RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products
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I am not familiar enough with carpentry or construction to say and I am a s***ty carpenter.
I am a contractor but it is landscaping. So maybe somebody who knows more could say. The shop ceiling is made of pre-fab trusses, 2x4 with the big staple brackets. Spacing is probably like 3-4ft. The 62 body is right around 1500lbs I would think, maybe a bit less stripped down. I really do not feel very comfortable lifting off it but maybe somebody else can/will chime in.I am thinking spray for the base layer, thing about the stickies is it is just a major pita if you want or need to get under it for whatever reason.
Cheers
I wouldn't hang 1500lbs from it myself, fairly cheap to build a couple of swing set style frames.
I am not familiar enough with carpentry or construction to say and I am a s***ty carpenter.
I am thinking spray for the base layer, thing about the stickies is it is just a major pita if you want or need to get under it for whatever reason.
Cheers
Yeah, that's not enough structure...was thinking industrial metal post construction perhaps. Stay safe, don't collapse the roof!
If you had enough clearance, you could put an I beam with foundation supports at each end and rig up a sliding chain hoist
. But then we would just delay the build of the cruiser so carry on 
