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I have built these for 24 volts, and in fact have some 24 volt relays on hand. I'm a bit confused by your wording regarding the 12 volts vs 24 volts. If you want something that will work with a DC to DC converter that converts 24 volts to 12 volts, then you would just use a regular 12 volt relay panel. If I build it for 24 volts, the relay coils will be 24 volts and the relays will switch 24 volts to your devices. Is this what you meant?
forLooking for an elegant solution to controlling your Auxiliary lights and other devices? Fog lights, off road driving lights, radio circuits, and any other high power device requires it's own wire harness. You can't just tap into any old wire you find that has 12 Volts in it. It becomes awkward and dangerous to add another wire to the mess on the positive terminal of the battery every time you add a new device. There are fuse blocks available from Blue Sea and others, but if you also have a relay in your Aux circuit, where do you put that?
With quality parts from major vendors, I have developed a weather resistant fuse/relay panel that can be mounted on top of a wheel well or on the inner fender wall in the engine compartment, and will serve as a central hub for 5 relay switched Aux circuits and up to 5 always on fused Aux circuits. You run only one wire to the battery and with your switches and wires, you can control up to 10 Aux devices (5 switched and up to 5 fused).
My Aux Panel can greatly simplify your wiring. There are only two color coded wires for each relay--a skinny wire and a fat wire. The fat wire is the wire you connect to your device. The skinny wire is the control wire and is connected to a switch that you provide. When you order, you will specify whether you want the relay to be activated when the control wire is switched to ground or when the control wire is switched to 12 volts (hot). Regardless of how the relay control is configured (switched ground or switched hot), 12 Volts is supplied to the fat wire of the same color (or shade thereof) when the relay is activated. That's all there is to it. Using my Aux fuse/relay panel will take the complexity out of wiring your aftermarket devices. See post # 11 in this thread for schematics and further discussion of the switched ground and switched hot option.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html#post5240849
The main power lead is a 10 gauge 36 inch wire that is protected by a fusible link. Please specify if you will need to locate the fuse/relay block farther than 36 inches from the battery. Mounted on the brackets, the relay module is 5 inches tall, and at the base of the mount brackets, it is 7 inches by 3.5 inches. So a good way to test for fitment is to cut a 7 inch long piece of 2X4 and use that as a model. The main power lead can be lengthened up to 10 feet total length for an additional $10.
Each individual Aux relay circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse and each non-switched wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse. The total simultaneous load on the relay/fuse module should not exceed about 60 amps.
UPDATE Aug 2014. I was contacted by a 4X4 shop to build them some Auxiliary Relay panels with 10 relays instead of just five. Apparently he couldn't sell as many as he thought, and I have 3 of these available. These are pretty big with lots of circuits. The going price is $190. I've included a pic of the 10 amp panel below. If there is a massive interest in the 10 relay panels then I may continue to build them. Bussmann does not make mounting brackets for these guys, so you will have to fab them. There are 10 switched circuits (relays) and 10 non-switched circuits fused at 15 amps. So, if you are doing an engine swap or just need a ton of new circuits, this may be for you. It's rated at 200 amps.
Looking for an elegant solution to controlling your Auxiliary lights and other devices? Fog lights, off road driving lights, radio circuits, and any other high power device requires it's own wire harness. You can't just tap into any old wire you find that has 12 Volts in it. It becomes awkward and dangerous to add another wire to the mess on the positive terminal of the battery every time you add a new device. There are fuse blocks available from Blue Sea and others, but if you also have a relay in your Aux circuit, where do you put that?
With quality parts from major vendors, I have developed a weather resistant fuse/relay panel that can be mounted on top of a wheel well or on the inner fender wall in the engine compartment, and will serve as a central hub for 5 relay switched Aux circuits and up to 5 always on fused Aux circuits. You run only one wire to the battery and with your switches and wires, you can control up to 10 Aux devices (5 switched and up to 5 fused).
My Aux Panel can greatly simplify your wiring. There are only two color coded wires for each relay--a skinny wire and a fat wire. The fat wire is the wire you connect to your device. The skinny wire is the control wire and is connected to a switch that you provide. When you order, you will specify whether you want the relay to be activated when the control wire is switched to ground or when the control wire is switched to 12 volts (hot). Regardless of how the relay control is configured (switched ground or switched hot), 12 Volts is supplied to the fat wire of the same color (or shade thereof) when the relay is activated. That's all there is to it. Using my Aux fuse/relay panel will take the complexity out of wiring your aftermarket devices. See post # 11 in this thread for schematics and further discussion of the switched ground and switched hot option.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html#post5240849
The main power lead is a 10 gauge 36 inch wire that is protected by a fusible link. Please specify if you will need to locate the fuse/relay block farther than 36 inches from the battery. Mounted on the brackets, the relay module is 5 inches tall, and at the base of the mount brackets, it is 7 inches by 3.5 inches. So a good way to test for fitment is to cut a 7 inch long piece of 2X4 and use that as a model. The main power lead can be lengthened up to 10 feet total length for an additional $10.
Each individual Aux relay circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse and each non-switched wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse. The total simultaneous load on the relay/fuse module should not exceed about 60 amps.
UPDATE Aug 2014. I was contacted by a 4X4 shop to build them some Auxiliary Relay panels with 10 relays instead of just five. Apparently he couldn't sell as many as he thought, and I have 3 of these available. These are pretty big with lots of circuits. The going price is $190. I've included a pic of the 10 amp panel below. If there is a massive interest in the 10 relay panels then I may continue to build them. Bussmann does not make mounting brackets for these guys, so you will have to fab them. There are 10 switched circuits (relays) and 10 non-switched circuits fused at 15 amps. So, if you are doing an engine swap or just need a ton of new circuits, this may be for you. It's rated at 200 amps.
Can they be made to be hot when the key is turned on.Man, I sold out of the 10 relay panels and haven't had enough interest to order the parts. I can supply you with two 5 relay panels, they take up about the same amount of space as the 10 relay panels and include mounting brackets for the same price as a 10 relay panel.
Erik
Sorry guys...new here and trying to figure this out. To the OP...just wanting to know how much for one of these kits? I apologize if this has been answered before, which I'm sure it has...just no luck finding it?? This forum is very different then others I have been on.
Anyway...it looks great, just need a price shipped to 43023
Thanks...have a great day!!
Russel
How do you have our wired now? Are they all on their own switch?I had a question before i put in an order....
1) I would like to have this relay box operate my roof rack lights. If I wanted to put one master switch to turn on and off all the roof rack light bar switches, how would I wire this?
2) will this switch box handle 1-50" lightbar 4-20" lightbars 4-6" lightbars and 4-4" led lights and 2-10" lightbars?
or how could i adapt your box to do so?
forgot the 8-rigid duallys for the rock lights
Looking for an elegant solution to controlling your Auxiliary lights and other devices? Fog lights, off road driving lights, radio circuits, and any other high power device requires it's own wire harness. You can't just tap into any old wire you find that has 12 Volts in it. It becomes awkward and dangerous to add another wire to the mess on the positive terminal of the battery every time you add a new device. There are fuse blocks available from Blue Sea and others, but if you also have a relay in your Aux circuit, where do you put that?
With quality parts from major vendors, I have developed a weather resistant fuse/relay panel that can be mounted on top of a wheel well or on the inner fender wall in the engine compartment, and will serve as a central hub for 5 relay switched Aux circuits and up to 5 always on fused Aux circuits. You run only one wire to the battery and with your switches and wires, you can control up to 10 Aux devices (5 switched and up to 5 fused).
My Aux Panel can greatly simplify your wiring. There are only two color coded wires for each relay--a skinny wire and a fat wire. The fat wire is the wire you connect to your device. The skinny wire is the control wire and is connected to a switch that you provide. When you order, you will specify whether you want the relay to be activated when the control wire is switched to ground or when the control wire is switched to 12 volts (hot). Regardless of how the relay control is configured (switched ground or switched hot), 12 Volts is supplied to the fat wire of the same color (or shade thereof) when the relay is activated. That's all there is to it. Using my Aux fuse/relay panel will take the complexity out of wiring your aftermarket devices. See post # 11 in this thread for schematics and further discussion of the switched ground and switched hot option.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html#post5240849
The main power lead is a 10 gauge 36 inch wire that is protected by a fusible link. Please specify if you will need to locate the fuse/relay block farther than 36 inches from the battery. Mounted on the brackets, the relay module is 5 inches tall, and at the base of the mount brackets, it is 7 inches by 3.5 inches. So a good way to test for fitment is to cut a 7 inch long piece of 2X4 and use that as a model. The main power lead can be lengthened up to 10 feet total length for an additional $10.
Each individual Aux relay circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse and each non-switched wire is protected by a 15 amp fuse. The total simultaneous load on the relay/fuse module should not exceed about 60 amps.
UPDATE Aug 2014. I was contacted by a 4X4 shop to build them some Auxiliary Relay panels with 10 relays instead of just five. Apparently he couldn't sell as many as he thought, and I have 3 of these available. These are pretty big with lots of circuits. The going price is $190. I've included a pic of the 10 amp panel below. If there is a massive interest in the 10 relay panels then I may continue to build them. Bussmann does not make mounting brackets for these guys, so you will have to fab them. There are 10 switched circuits (relays) and 10 non-switched circuits fused at 15 amps. So, if you are doing an engine swap or just need a ton of new circuits, this may be for you. It's rated at 200 amps.
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