< UPDATE 08/25/2020 - Re-posted all steps and images at the end of this post (page 4) Cheers! - Brian >
Found a lack of info while researching this so I thought I'd document my trek. Guess it may be due to the fact that desmoging a rig is frowned upon. In most cases 30+ year old smog equipment is not functioning properly anyways. So it was a question of finding and replacing parts or restructuring the 55 so it is set-up like the lucky countries. This is eventually going to be a exploration rig so simplicity is important to me.
Here is what I started with. One complete Kalifornia spec. 1976 FJ55 (2F).
Removed the carburetor and sent it off for a complete rebuild and desmog.
I also picked up a 1982 FJ60 distributor/coil and ignitor and sent that off as well. The dizzy will be tested and re-curved to match the desmog’d carb. He is just testing the electronics of the coil and ignitor for me. This way I loose the points and gain a waterproof cap/dizzy in the later model unit. Stoked on NOT dealing with points anymore!
The FJ60 dizzy is larger than the stock dizzy so a “dented” side cover from a FJ60 is also used. In the above picture you can see the size difference. Below are pictures of the new side cover.
Next I pulled all the other smog related stuff. The EGR and cooler came off pretty easily. I’ve had problems pulling this stuff in the past so I soaked the nuts/bolts with PB Blaster for a couple days before pulling.
Had to make an EGR block off plate where the EGR pipe came into the exhaust manifold. I used some flat stock steel I had, borrowed some gasket material and also used the hi-temp RTV.
Here is the block off plate installed.
Pulled the air rail and plugged the ports with allen head screws.
Plugged.
Also had to plug one port on the intake manifold.
Removed the emissions “computer” from inside DS kick panel. In the picture below the “computer” is gone already. You can see the mounting bracket and harness. The harness has switched power and I think constant power. Most likely properly fused too. Good info from Jim C. at no additional charge. I’ll wire my CB and/or ARB compressor here.
Removed the air bypass and switching valve along with some other thing that I forget the name of. See below pictures…
Initially was going to de-vain my smog pump and reuse it as a pulley tensioner for the York air compressor installed. Decided after I pulled the veins that I would bag the York bracket. It was a dealer installed A/C system and the bracket is ugly. I’ll work it out later with a new bracket and probably the tensioner pulley that JimC sells in the smog pumps place. If you are not running power steering or a compressor on that side then you don’t need to put the smog/air pump or a tensioner in its place.
Pulled and replaced the stock coil/ignitor with the 82 FJ60 coil/ignitor. Jim labeled the wires for me but, if you get the entire harness from the FJ60 coil to the dizzy you are pretty much set. The harness plugs into the clip on the dizzy, small black wire is to tach, larger black wire is to ground (direct to battery), black with yellow stripe is to switched power. BAM!
Pulled the stock dizzy then the stock side cover was easier to get to. The freakin’ cork gasket under the side cover was a royal PITA to clean off. I think this took more time than anything on the project.
Clean
Found a lack of info while researching this so I thought I'd document my trek. Guess it may be due to the fact that desmoging a rig is frowned upon. In most cases 30+ year old smog equipment is not functioning properly anyways. So it was a question of finding and replacing parts or restructuring the 55 so it is set-up like the lucky countries. This is eventually going to be a exploration rig so simplicity is important to me.
Here is what I started with. One complete Kalifornia spec. 1976 FJ55 (2F).
Removed the carburetor and sent it off for a complete rebuild and desmog.
I also picked up a 1982 FJ60 distributor/coil and ignitor and sent that off as well. The dizzy will be tested and re-curved to match the desmog’d carb. He is just testing the electronics of the coil and ignitor for me. This way I loose the points and gain a waterproof cap/dizzy in the later model unit. Stoked on NOT dealing with points anymore!
The FJ60 dizzy is larger than the stock dizzy so a “dented” side cover from a FJ60 is also used. In the above picture you can see the size difference. Below are pictures of the new side cover.
Next I pulled all the other smog related stuff. The EGR and cooler came off pretty easily. I’ve had problems pulling this stuff in the past so I soaked the nuts/bolts with PB Blaster for a couple days before pulling.
Had to make an EGR block off plate where the EGR pipe came into the exhaust manifold. I used some flat stock steel I had, borrowed some gasket material and also used the hi-temp RTV.
Here is the block off plate installed.
Pulled the air rail and plugged the ports with allen head screws.
Plugged.
Also had to plug one port on the intake manifold.
Removed the emissions “computer” from inside DS kick panel. In the picture below the “computer” is gone already. You can see the mounting bracket and harness. The harness has switched power and I think constant power. Most likely properly fused too. Good info from Jim C. at no additional charge. I’ll wire my CB and/or ARB compressor here.
Removed the air bypass and switching valve along with some other thing that I forget the name of. See below pictures…
Initially was going to de-vain my smog pump and reuse it as a pulley tensioner for the York air compressor installed. Decided after I pulled the veins that I would bag the York bracket. It was a dealer installed A/C system and the bracket is ugly. I’ll work it out later with a new bracket and probably the tensioner pulley that JimC sells in the smog pumps place. If you are not running power steering or a compressor on that side then you don’t need to put the smog/air pump or a tensioner in its place.
Pulled and replaced the stock coil/ignitor with the 82 FJ60 coil/ignitor. Jim labeled the wires for me but, if you get the entire harness from the FJ60 coil to the dizzy you are pretty much set. The harness plugs into the clip on the dizzy, small black wire is to tach, larger black wire is to ground (direct to battery), black with yellow stripe is to switched power. BAM!
Pulled the stock dizzy then the stock side cover was easier to get to. The freakin’ cork gasket under the side cover was a royal PITA to clean off. I think this took more time than anything on the project.
Clean
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