Thanks for your work in documenting an otherwise somewhat difficult task. I am about one month from a complete desmog. This info will be invaluable.
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The fitting on the top of the modified carb in the pic is now a vacuum source, like an '79-newer carb, not a vacuum sink.BTW, running a vacuum line from the power valve (on the front top of the carb air horn in the picture) to the throttle positioner on the other side of the carb is not going to help you. The power valve needs vacuum to close. The way you have it plumbed, it will always be open and it will run rich and get bad gas mileage. Connect it to manifold vacuum. The vacuum may never drop low enough to open, but at least it won't always be open.
Chimed.Hmmm. Interesting. That's the way Jim set it up. Carb is straight outta the box and onto the rig. Maybe he'll chime in here...
If the carb has been modded by me, then it gets hooked up as shown.I believe that Jim recommends that the power valve be hooked up to manifold vacuum and the throttle positioner removed.
smith, PM me with your real name and when I built the carb, so I can check the RO, see what we're talking about.Interesting... That is exactly how I have my desmogged carb plummed and mine does run very rich. Paging JimC...
Thanks.
JimC sent them along with the air cleaner cap and intake port plug.
And don't forget to pick the air cleaner stud up out of the choke blade, and screw it in the carb.
Mr. JimC,
Care to share your source for your very clean solution to 2F air-rail ports?
Thanks,
manny
The fitting on the top of the modified carb in the pic is now a vacuum source, like an '79-newer carb, not a vacuum sink.
The vac can at the back of the carb is now exclusively the choke breaker, not a throttle positioner.
Chimed.
If the carb has been modded by me, then it gets hooked up as shown.
If it is still internally stock, then choke breaker and power valve both need to see manifold vacuum.
smith, PM me with your real name and when I built the carb, so I can check the RO, see what we're talking about.
Did you do anything with the heat riser vane that lives inside the exhaust manifold? At least veryify correct operation?
I was thinking it looked like it was right in the way of anything like easy breathing, like a giant booger in your nose.
In the end I didn't want to spend a couple hours trying to saw/drill/hack/swear it out of there, and it works pretty well, so I left mine in.
Nice writeup on the desmog. Do you happen to have a picture of the overall engine compartment after the desmog? Similar to the first picture you posted, kinda like a before/after comparison. Also, do you notice any difference in performance or fuel economy since you did it?
I have a '75 2F that I'm considering doing the same thing to. It's got most of the emissions stuff, but the previous owner had cut the EGR cooler pipe then plugged it opening with epoxy, so I just removed the cooler completely. Everything else is still on there and it runs fine, so I'm debating whether it's worth the hassle to go through a desmog if it's not gonna make a big difference.
If it is still internally stock, then choke breaker and power valve both need to see manifold vacuum.
I have one in my 76 FJ. I put it in and have had no problems. You have the get the matching coil. There is a specific ohm resistance they need for the 2F. I hate to say in this case do not follow the directs. I will check my coil and post the ohm reading.