'76 2F desmog with pics (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for your work in documenting an otherwise somewhat difficult task. I am about one month from a complete desmog. This info will be invaluable.
 
Excellent-Doing this same thing as my 76 motor gets installed on my 71 frame!!

Coincidentally-it is a 76 California Emissions truck. Perfect.
 
BTW, running a vacuum line from the power valve (on the front top of the carb air horn in the picture) to the throttle positioner on the other side of the carb is not going to help you. The power valve needs vacuum to close. The way you have it plumbed, it will always be open and it will run rich and get bad gas mileage. Connect it to manifold vacuum. The vacuum may never drop low enough to open, but at least it won't always be open.

desmog24.JPG
The fitting on the top of the modified carb in the pic is now a vacuum source, like an '79-newer carb, not a vacuum sink.

The vac can at the back of the carb is now exclusively the choke breaker, not a throttle positioner.


Hmmm. Interesting. That's the way Jim set it up. Carb is straight outta the box and onto the rig. Maybe he'll chime in here...
Chimed.

I believe that Jim recommends that the power valve be hooked up to manifold vacuum and the throttle positioner removed.
If the carb has been modded by me, then it gets hooked up as shown.
If it is still internally stock, then choke breaker and power valve both need to see manifold vacuum.


Interesting... That is exactly how I have my desmogged carb plummed and mine does run very rich. Paging JimC...
smith, PM me with your real name and when I built the carb, so I can check the RO, see what we're talking about.

 
Curious

Did you do anything with the heat riser vane that lives inside the exhaust manifold? At least veryify correct operation?

I was thinking it looked like it was right in the way of anything like easy breathing, like a giant booger in your nose.

In the end I didn't want to spend a couple hours trying to saw/drill/hack/swear it out of there, and it works pretty well, so I left mine in.
 
Thanks.

JimC sent them along with the air cleaner cap and intake port plug.

Mr. JimC,
Care to share your source for your very clean solution to 2F air-rail ports?
Thanks,
manny
 
And don't forget to pick the air cleaner stud up out of the choke blade, and screw it in the carb.:eek:

:eek:

Is that the "Thermalnuclear reactor" exhaust manifold, too?

Best get rid of that, too (even my friendly State on Kalifornia BAR representative suggests that, that sucker gets HOT)
 
Mr. JimC,
Care to share your source for your very clean solution to 2F air-rail ports?
Thanks,
manny


Manny-You can get those port plugs from Toyota. They plugged those holes in the head in the FJ62's, so the plugs are available. I just got a set of 6 from Cruiserdan. Here's a picture of 3 of the 6 plugs with a handy number...
Plug1.jpg
 
Appreciate the info...Thank You Andrew :D
 
Manny,
The air rail plugs and black nylon air cleaner caps can be purchased from TLC Performance for $1ea., plus postage.

Also available from Toyota for $6ea/air rail plug and $18 for air cleaner cap.

Email me if interested.
 
Back on this desmog thing--with specific questions for Jim


With the desmog-I also have a 76 with a JimC rebuilt stock carb. I want to switch to a 79 distributer (small cap, electronic) that I have. Would it be better to rerebuild and modify the 76 carb, or rebuild a 78 carb which I also have? Smog is totally not an issue since it is all going in a 71 frame. I need a source of ported vacuum to run the vac advance that I think is lacking on the 76 carb.

Also needed is the idler pulley to replace the smog pump. Is that available from TLC as well?

FOr Pinhead-this will take many months to all work out, but the smog gear left over could easily find itself a way to Southern California.
 
The fitting on the top of the modified carb in the pic is now a vacuum source, like an '79-newer carb, not a vacuum sink.

The vac can at the back of the carb is now exclusively the choke breaker, not a throttle positioner.



Chimed.


If the carb has been modded by me, then it gets hooked up as shown.
If it is still internally stock, then choke breaker and power valve both need to see manifold vacuum.


smith, PM me with your real name and when I built the carb, so I can check the RO, see what we're talking about.



Ahhh. Internally Modded by JimC


Thanks.
 
Did you do anything with the heat riser vane that lives inside the exhaust manifold? At least veryify correct operation?

I was thinking it looked like it was right in the way of anything like easy breathing, like a giant booger in your nose.

In the end I didn't want to spend a couple hours trying to saw/drill/hack/swear it out of there, and it works pretty well, so I left mine in.


I left it but, agree it can't help the flow.
 
Nice writeup on the desmog. Do you happen to have a picture of the overall engine compartment after the desmog? Similar to the first picture you posted, kinda like a before/after comparison. Also, do you notice any difference in performance or fuel economy since you did it?

I have a '75 2F that I'm considering doing the same thing to. It's got most of the emissions stuff, but the previous owner had cut the EGR cooler pipe then plugged it opening with epoxy, so I just removed the cooler completely. Everything else is still on there and it runs fine, so I'm debating whether it's worth the hassle to go through a desmog if it's not gonna make a big difference.
 
Nice writeup on the desmog. Do you happen to have a picture of the overall engine compartment after the desmog? Similar to the first picture you posted, kinda like a before/after comparison. Also, do you notice any difference in performance or fuel economy since you did it?

I have a '75 2F that I'm considering doing the same thing to. It's got most of the emissions stuff, but the previous owner had cut the EGR cooler pipe then plugged it opening with epoxy, so I just removed the cooler completely. Everything else is still on there and it runs fine, so I'm debating whether it's worth the hassle to go through a desmog if it's not gonna make a big difference.


The one pic I have on this PC doesn't show things well. I'll take one tonight from the same angle as the before pic.

Haven't driven it yet. Had to remove the water pump (to remove the York bracket) and while timing it I noticed a small leak. Need to check that out first. I was getting real poor gas mileage before the desmog. I'll record a few tanks and let you know....

The only hassle I had was removing the old cork gasket. Not too bad really. Parts were inexspensive (used), still all Toyota, no points, more water resistant, simpler to look at... I'm hoping it is a win-win. We'll see.
 
If it is still internally stock, then choke breaker and power valve both need to see manifold vacuum.

I hooked up a vacuum pump, and found that my Power Valve does not hold vacuum...is this normal?

Since it doesn't seal, attaching my PV to manifold vacuum is like introducing a vacuum leak...

BTW, you have a PM on those air-rail plugs.
thanks,
manny
 
The PV is a piston, not a diaphragm, so it is normal that it doesn't seal completely. The vacuum leak is very small.
 
I have one in my 76 FJ. I put it in and have had no problems. You have the get the matching coil. There is a specific ohm resistance they need for the 2F. I hate to say in this case do not follow the directs. I will check my coil and post the ohm reading.
 
I have one in my 76 FJ. I put it in and have had no problems. You have the get the matching coil. There is a specific ohm resistance they need for the 2F. I hate to say in this case do not follow the directs. I will check my coil and post the ohm reading.

What do you mean, do not follow the directions? Please do post more info. thanks
 

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