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'76 2F desmog with pics

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Guyute, Dec 11, 2006.

  1. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246
    Found a lack of info while researching this so I thought I'd document my trek. Guess it may be due to the fact that desmoging a rig is frowned upon. In most cases 30+ year old smog equipment is not functioning properly anyways. So it was a question of finding and replacing parts or restructuring the 55 so it is set-up like the lucky countries. This is eventually going to be a exploration rig so simplicity is important to me.


    Here is what I started with. One complete Kalifornia spec. 1976 FJ55 (2F).
    [​IMG]

    Removed the carburetor and sent it off for a complete rebuild and desmog.
    [​IMG]

    I also picked up a 1982 FJ60 distributor/coil and ignitor and sent that off as well. The dizzy will be tested and re-curved to match the desmog’d carb. He is just testing the electronics of the coil and ignitor for me. This way I loose the points and gain a waterproof cap/dizzy in the later model unit. Stoked on NOT dealing with points anymore!
    [​IMG]

    The FJ60 dizzy is larger than the stock dizzy so a “dented” side cover from a FJ60 is also used. In the above picture you can see the size difference. Below are pictures of the new side cover.
    [​IMG]

    Next I pulled all the other smog related stuff. The EGR and cooler came off pretty easily. I’ve had problems pulling this stuff in the past so I soaked the nuts/bolts with PB Blaster for a couple days before pulling.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Had to make an EGR block off plate where the EGR pipe came into the exhaust manifold. I used some flat stock steel I had, borrowed some gasket material and also used the hi-temp RTV.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is the block off plate installed.
    [​IMG]

    Pulled the air rail and plugged the ports with allen head screws.
    [​IMG]

    Plugged.
    [​IMG]

    Also had to plug one port on the intake manifold.
    [​IMG]

    Removed the emissions “computer” from inside DS kick panel. In the picture below the “computer” is gone already. You can see the mounting bracket and harness. The harness has switched power and I think constant power. Most likely properly fused too. Good info from Jim C. at no additional charge. I’ll wire my CB and/or ARB compressor here.
    [​IMG]

    Removed the air bypass and switching valve along with some other thing that I forget the name of. See below pictures…
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Initially was going to de-vain my smog pump and reuse it as a pulley tensioner for the York air compressor installed. Decided after I pulled the veins that I would bag the York bracket. It was a dealer installed A/C system and the bracket is ugly. I’ll work it out later with a new bracket and probably the tensioner pulley that JimC sells in the smog pumps place. If you are not running power steering or a compressor on that side then you don’t need to put the smog/air pump or a tensioner in its place.
    [​IMG]

    Pulled and replaced the stock coil/ignitor with the 82 FJ60 coil/ignitor. Jim labeled the wires for me but, if you get the entire harness from the FJ60 coil to the dizzy you are pretty much set. The harness plugs into the clip on the dizzy, small black wire is to tach, larger black wire is to ground (direct to battery), black with yellow stripe is to switched power. BAM!
    [​IMG]

    Pulled the stock dizzy then the stock side cover was easier to get to. The freakin’ cork gasket under the side cover was a royal PITA to clean off. I think this took more time than anything on the project.
    [​IMG]

    Clean
    [​IMG]
  2. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246
    Part deux

    Replacing side cover and gasket with “dented” side cover from a FJ60.
    [​IMG]

    Dropped the FJ60 dizzy in (consult you FSM for procedure. You don’t want to SNAFU this). I dig my little distributor wrench. Works great for the hard-to-get-to carb nuts too.
    [​IMG]

    Below you can see the clearance that the dented side cover gives you. I have read that some peeps get away with denting their old cover. Finding this cover was easy though with all the old FJ60’s around here. It was actually a freebie and cleaned up nice.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Bolted the carb back on. Attached the linkage, choke, idle solenoid, and the hose from the carb to the dizzy. Jim took care of the rest during the rebuild.
    [​IMG]

    The re-curved ’82 FJ60 dizzy has three ports. One is blocked off, one goes to the carb and one needs to be vented to clean (ish) air. I didn’t want to drill into my air cleaner and weld in a nipple so I picked up a small breather from my FLAPS. I used the same breathers to extend the diffs and T/C breathers on my last FJ55. They are like $6 bucks then I head to the hardware store and pick up the brass fitting.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Run from the top of the dizzy port to the breather.
    [​IMG]

    Found a nice route and stock bracket to use. This is originally the bracket for the radiator overflow hose.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Capped the air cleaner.
    [​IMG]

    I still need to vent the charcoal canister where it was attached to the switching valve. I’ll do the same as I did for the dizzy vent most likely.
    [​IMG]


    I’m sure I left something out but it really was pretty simple once the noodly appendages were gone and you could see everything. I have a 1979 FJ40 that is BONE stock with all the emissions. I’ve been fighting with it but am determined to keep her original. Should be interesting to see/feel the difference between the two.


    Later.
  3. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

    Messages:
    11,274
    Location:
    OC, CA
    So what are you doing with the left overs? I have a '76 that needs to pass smog (both a visual check of the installed equipment and tail pipe). I'll take that junk off your hands for you.
  4. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246

    figured that'd come up. I'm keeping it all for now. The cooler is trashed (hole in the side) but, the rest is in decent shape. Concerned that emission laws could change in my area.
  5. mr_manny

    mr_manny

    Messages:
    1,604
    Location:
    san pancho, ca
    Great pics...
    where did you score those allen bolts for the air-rail ports?
  6. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246
    Thanks.

    JimC sent them along with the air cleaner cap and intake port plug.
  7. Fast Eddy

    Fast Eddy SILVER Star

    Messages:
    11,330
    Location:
    Morgan Hill, CA
    Smog Pump Parts?

    Did you save any of the parts from inside the smog pump? I need one air vane bushing. They're like 4" long ceramic pieces.

    I was going the other direction from you this weekend on my '78 40. I pulled off the headers, reconditioned the exhaust manifold, pulled out the air rail plugs and installed new air rail ports and a freshly painted air rail.

    I would've asked for the smog parts too, if you weren't keeping them. Those noodly appendages connect to a bunch of $45 parts that SOR has in stock and I do not.
  8. Nomis

    Nomis

    Messages:
    1,177
    Location:
    Tampa
    You've done a service to the MUD community with this. Thanks for the info - and esp. the pics.

    There are quite a few Tech Links on this in the FAQ, but this should be added to it for future reference IMHO.
  9. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

    Messages:
    20,678
    Location:
    Central California
    Great write up with photo documentation.

    How in the world did you get so many good, quality pictures posted?
  10. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

    Messages:
    20,678
    Location:
    Central California
    Check e-bay. There are about 4 complete set on there right now. I bought a compete set up for $100.00 plus shipping.
  11. Fast Eddy

    Fast Eddy SILVER Star

    Messages:
    11,330
    Location:
    Morgan Hill, CA
    I looked, but I didn't find any complete sets of anything. Care to post the results of your search magic? Thanks in advance.

  12. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

    Messages:
    11,274
    Location:
    OC, CA
    BTW, running a vacuum line from the power valve (on the front top of the carb air horn in the picture) to the throttle positioner on the other side of the carb is not going to help you. The power valve needs vacuum to close. The way you have it plumbed, it will always be open and it will run rich and get bad gas mileage. Connect it to manifold vacuum. The vacuum may never drop low enough to open, but at least it won't always be open.

    [​IMG]
  13. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagle and Landcruisers Moderator

    Messages:
    20,678
    Location:
    Central California
    Fast Eddy

    Pm'd ya
  14. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246

    Yah but, I'll probably be using that pump on my fully smogged 79 in the future. Sorry.
  15. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246
    Hmmm. Interesting. That's the way Jim set it up. Carb is straight outta the box and onto the rig. Maybe he'll chime in here...
  16. Guyute

    Guyute

    Messages:
    246
    Thanks.

    Yah. The stuff in the FAQ's was helpful. Appreciate all the info I find here and the LCML archive. Good stuff.
  17. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

    Messages:
    11,274
    Location:
    OC, CA

    I believe that Jim recommends that the power valve be hooked up to manifold vacuum and the throttle positioner removed. The hole you plugged in the intake manifold would work. The power valve is the hose connection number "8" on the top of hte carb facing forward in the picture.

    I used to be a California smog tech back when your cruiser was new and my opinion is that other than the EGR, ignition retard and air injection, the other stuff performs useful functions in maximizing performance and fuel economy under more different driving conditions. It is also electronic engine control. Simply disabling the EGR, retard and AI is sufficient and is a lot less work. It isn't worth the effort to remove it.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2006
  18. mr_manny

    mr_manny

    Messages:
    1,604
    Location:
    san pancho, ca
    Charlie,
    Should the power-valve hold vacuum?
    maybe i'll try a test w/a vacuum gun...
    thanks
  19. John Smith

    John Smith In the garage GOLD Star

    Messages:
    3,824
    Location:
    Maryland
    Interesting... That is exactly how I have my desmogged carb plummed and mine does run very rich. Paging JimC...
  20. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

    Messages:
    11,274
    Location:
    OC, CA
    The PV isn't completely vacuum tight, but it doesn't take much vacuum to close it. It is easy to test even with the lips vacuum source.

    My daughter said that she would try calling again on Thurs. Hope you're feeling better.

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