thanks for the pics Jim, good prices too
'76 2F desmog with pics (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Guyute
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sorry to hijack, but can anyone help me out with stock 2F that has been partially desmogged.....what can be unplugged and capped with a stock carb? the air rail has been removed and the ports plugged, the air pump and the hoses attached to it have been removed, but everything else is still there. I know that things aren't working correctly right now, and I have an erratic idle and it's running rich. I've adjusted the idle, the rest of the screws on the carb don't seem to do anything. I've read through some of the desmog threads, similar to this one, but the carb usually has been worked on or there is a different carb altogether. Also, is there a better place to get a new heat shield that goes under the carb?
Thanks
Thanks
If it is running rich, you might check the power valve vacuum connection. The PV port is a little brass tube in the top cover of the carb, right under the air cleaner facing the front. It needs to be connected to manifold vacuum.
The idle problem might be a number of things, probably unrelated to the "desmog". Start by checking for manifold vacuum leaks.
The idle problem might be a number of things, probably unrelated to the "desmog". Start by checking for manifold vacuum leaks.
What year is your vehicle, and more specifically, what year is your carb? It makes a difference, as the vacuum connections change from year to year.
For a '77 FJ40, here is a thread I started that discusses the philosophy of a desmog and goes through all the systems:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/440852-77-fj40-federal-2f-desmog.html
An erratic idle, might be a vacuum leak, how have you determined it's running rich?
For a '77 FJ40, here is a thread I started that discusses the philosophy of a desmog and goes through all the systems:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/440852-77-fj40-federal-2f-desmog.html
An erratic idle, might be a vacuum leak, how have you determined it's running rich?
its a 77 2f, with as far as i know, the stock carb.
Check this thread for carb build date identification:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/88356-date-code-carb-identification.html
If you have a '77 carb, then definitely check out the thread I posted above.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/88356-date-code-carb-identification.html
If you have a '77 carb, then definitely check out the thread I posted above.
Very interesting reading.
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Keep the large fitting, it is needed for proper PCV operation.
The small barb should be connected to CB or capped.
The small barb should be connected to CB or capped.
Pictures not showing
Is anyone else having trouble viewing the pictures on the original post? I can't seem to see them, no matter which browser I use. If anyone has them saved they can email sv.lorax@gmail.com Thank you.
Is anyone else having trouble viewing the pictures on the original post? I can't seem to see them, no matter which browser I use. If anyone has them saved they can email sv.lorax@gmail.com Thank you.
Are you still there???? Would you, by any chance, have the pics available for you 2006 post on the 76 carb desmog? I just did mine and need to double check with a 'proven' source. Thanks in advance, einman01@yahoo.com
- Thread starter
- #72
Reposting the pictures that disappeared and steps below. Hope this helps. B
Here is what I started with. One complete Kalifornia spec. 1976 FJ55 (2F).
Removed the carburetor and sent it off for a complete rebuild and desmog.
I also picked up a 1982 FJ60 distributor/coil and ignitor and sent that off as well. The dizzy will be tested and re-curved to match the desmog’d carb. He is just testing the electronics of the coil and ignitor for me. This way I loose the points and gain a waterproof cap/dizzy in the later model unit. Stoked on NOT dealing with points anymore!
The FJ60 dizzy is larger than the stock dizzy so a “dented” side cover from a FJ60 is also used. In the above picture you can see the size difference. Below are pictures of the new side cover.
Here is what I started with. One complete Kalifornia spec. 1976 FJ55 (2F).
Removed the carburetor and sent it off for a complete rebuild and desmog.
I also picked up a 1982 FJ60 distributor/coil and ignitor and sent that off as well. The dizzy will be tested and re-curved to match the desmog’d carb. He is just testing the electronics of the coil and ignitor for me. This way I loose the points and gain a waterproof cap/dizzy in the later model unit. Stoked on NOT dealing with points anymore!
The FJ60 dizzy is larger than the stock dizzy so a “dented” side cover from a FJ60 is also used. In the above picture you can see the size difference. Below are pictures of the new side cover.
- Thread starter
- #73
Next I pulled all the other smog related stuff. The EGR and cooler came off pretty easily. I’ve had problems pulling this stuff in the past so I soaked the nuts/bolts with PB Blaster for a couple days before pulling.
Had to make an EGR block off plate where the EGR pipe came into the exhaust manifold. I used some flat stock steel I had, borrowed some gasket material and also used the hi-temp RTV.
Here is the block off plate installed.
Had to make an EGR block off plate where the EGR pipe came into the exhaust manifold. I used some flat stock steel I had, borrowed some gasket material and also used the hi-temp RTV.
Here is the block off plate installed.
- Thread starter
- #74
Pulled the air rail and plugged the ports with allen head screws.
plugged
Also had to plug one port on the intake manifold.
Removed the emissions “computer” from inside DS kick panel. In the picture below the “computer” is gone already. You can see the mounting bracket and harness. The harness has switched power and I think constant power. Most likely properly fused too. Good info from Jim C. at no additional charge. I’ll wire my CB and/or ARB compressor here.
plugged
Also had to plug one port on the intake manifold.
Removed the emissions “computer” from inside DS kick panel. In the picture below the “computer” is gone already. You can see the mounting bracket and harness. The harness has switched power and I think constant power. Most likely properly fused too. Good info from Jim C. at no additional charge. I’ll wire my CB and/or ARB compressor here.
- Thread starter
- #75
Removed the air bypass and switching valve along with some other thing that I forget the name of. See below pictures…
I initially was going to de-vain my smog pump and reuse it as a pulley tensioner for the York air compressor installed. Decided after I pulled the veins that I would bag the York bracket. It was a dealer installed A/C system and the bracket is ugly. I’ll work it out later with a new bracket and probably the tensioner pulley that JimC sells in the smog pumps place. If you are not running power steering or a compressor on that side then you don’t need to put the smog/air pump or a tensioner in it place.
pulled and replaced the stock coil/ignitor with the 82 FJ60 coil/ignitor. Jim labeled the wires for me but, if you get the entire harness from the FJ60 coil to the dizzy you are pretty much set. The harness plugs into the clip on the dizzy, small black wire is to tach, larger black wire is to ground (direct to battery), black with yellow stripe is to switched power. BAM!
Pulled the stock dizzy then the stock side cover was easier to get to. The freakin’ cork gasket under the side cover was a royal PITA to clean off. I think this took more time than anything on the project.
I initially was going to de-vain my smog pump and reuse it as a pulley tensioner for the York air compressor installed. Decided after I pulled the veins that I would bag the York bracket. It was a dealer installed A/C system and the bracket is ugly. I’ll work it out later with a new bracket and probably the tensioner pulley that JimC sells in the smog pumps place. If you are not running power steering or a compressor on that side then you don’t need to put the smog/air pump or a tensioner in it place.
pulled and replaced the stock coil/ignitor with the 82 FJ60 coil/ignitor. Jim labeled the wires for me but, if you get the entire harness from the FJ60 coil to the dizzy you are pretty much set. The harness plugs into the clip on the dizzy, small black wire is to tach, larger black wire is to ground (direct to battery), black with yellow stripe is to switched power. BAM!
Pulled the stock dizzy then the stock side cover was easier to get to. The freakin’ cork gasket under the side cover was a royal PITA to clean off. I think this took more time than anything on the project.
- Thread starter
- #76
Clean
Replacing side cover and gasket with “dented” side cover from a FJ60.
Dropped the FJ60 dizzy in (consult you FSM for procedure. You don’t want to SNAFU this). I dig my little distributor wrench. Works great for the hard-to-get-to carb nuts too.
Below you can see the clearance that the dented side cover gives you. I have read that some peeps get away with denting their old cover. Finding this cover was easy though with all the old FJ60’s around here. It was actually a freebie and cleaned up nice.
Replacing side cover and gasket with “dented” side cover from a FJ60.
Dropped the FJ60 dizzy in (consult you FSM for procedure. You don’t want to SNAFU this). I dig my little distributor wrench. Works great for the hard-to-get-to carb nuts too.
Below you can see the clearance that the dented side cover gives you. I have read that some peeps get away with denting their old cover. Finding this cover was easy though with all the old FJ60’s around here. It was actually a freebie and cleaned up nice.
- Thread starter
- #77
Bolted the carb back on. Attached the linkage, choke, idle solenoid, and the hose from the carb to the dizzy. Jim took care of the rest during the rebuild.
The re-curved ’82 FJ60 dizzy has three ports. One is blocked off, one goes to the carb and one needs to be vented to clean (ish) air. I didn’t want to drill into my air cleaner and weld in a nipple so I picked up a small breather from my FLAPS. I used the same breathers to extend the diffs and T/C breathers on my last FJ55. They are like $6 bucks then I head to the hardware store and pick up the brass fitting.
Run from the top of the dizzy port to the breather.
The re-curved ’82 FJ60 dizzy has three ports. One is blocked off, one goes to the carb and one needs to be vented to clean (ish) air. I didn’t want to drill into my air cleaner and weld in a nipple so I picked up a small breather from my FLAPS. I used the same breathers to extend the diffs and T/C breathers on my last FJ55. They are like $6 bucks then I head to the hardware store and pick up the brass fitting.
Run from the top of the dizzy port to the breather.
- Thread starter
- #78
Found a nice route and stock bracket to use. This is originally the bracket for the radiator overflow hose.
Capped the air cleaner.
I still need to vent the charcoal canister where it was attached to the switching valve. I’ll do the same as I did for the dizzy vent most likely.
I’m sure I left something out but it really was pretty simple once the noodly appendages were gone and you could see everything. I have a 1979 FJ40 that is BONE stock with all the emissions. I’ve been fighting with it but am determined to keep her original. Should be interesting to see/feel the difference between the two.
- Brian
Capped the air cleaner.
I still need to vent the charcoal canister where it was attached to the switching valve. I’ll do the same as I did for the dizzy vent most likely.
I’m sure I left something out but it really was pretty simple once the noodly appendages were gone and you could see everything. I have a 1979 FJ40 that is BONE stock with all the emissions. I’ve been fighting with it but am determined to keep her original. Should be interesting to see/feel the difference between the two.
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #79
Overall finished picture as requested>
Also this is what I did for the charcoal canister vent/breather. Found an old V8 spark plug wire bracket, hacked off what I didn't need, cleaned it up and slapped some paint on it. Used a factory bolt to attach the bracket to the rig.
Also this is what I did for the charcoal canister vent/breather. Found an old V8 spark plug wire bracket, hacked off what I didn't need, cleaned it up and slapped some paint on it. Used a factory bolt to attach the bracket to the rig.
Thanks for posting this again!! I'm in process of desmogging a 77 and this will be huge help!
Cheers!
Cheers!
