71 FJ Build- "UGLY BETTY" (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bsmith123
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- #22
work on the tub
Well I was away for three weeks so no posts for a while but I am back at it now and working hard on the tub!
s****ing away on the tub I found the metal in pretty good shape, the whole bottom has it's paint intact probably better than my new car! I think a combo of the Cali climate and also the original undercoating kept it rust free. Even the floor boards were untouched. I have a new respect for the undercoating. Not sure it would have survived so well elsewhere though.
The cowl is mainly stripped now I used a combo of chemical stripper, 3m wheels, and hand sanding. I used a polyurethane stripper and it works ok but stings when it gets on you--nasty stuff.
I began to tackle the bottom which was a combination of grease and dirt and undercoating before you get to the paint!
It's easy to despair at this stage eh? I used a sharp wood chisel and it did a pretty good job. A little is left behind though but I got some East wood undercoat remover on standy, but there is no way around the elbow grease first.
One thing that helps is to take a propane torch to it and heat it a little as you s****e. I tried that when I got worn out and actually it worked really well.
I gave the cowl a wash with MEK and a paint brush and it cleaned out a lot of the gunk on the nutplates and corners and seams.
So still in the hard slog, grungy phase of work and looking forward to just gettting this part over and done!
Well I was away for three weeks so no posts for a while but I am back at it now and working hard on the tub!
s****ing away on the tub I found the metal in pretty good shape, the whole bottom has it's paint intact probably better than my new car! I think a combo of the Cali climate and also the original undercoating kept it rust free. Even the floor boards were untouched. I have a new respect for the undercoating. Not sure it would have survived so well elsewhere though.
The cowl is mainly stripped now I used a combo of chemical stripper, 3m wheels, and hand sanding. I used a polyurethane stripper and it works ok but stings when it gets on you--nasty stuff.
I began to tackle the bottom which was a combination of grease and dirt and undercoating before you get to the paint!
It's easy to despair at this stage eh? I used a sharp wood chisel and it did a pretty good job. A little is left behind though but I got some East wood undercoat remover on standy, but there is no way around the elbow grease first.
One thing that helps is to take a propane torch to it and heat it a little as you s****e. I tried that when I got worn out and actually it worked really well.
I gave the cowl a wash with MEK and a paint brush and it cleaned out a lot of the gunk on the nutplates and corners and seams.
So still in the hard slog, grungy phase of work and looking forward to just gettting this part over and done!
- Thread starter
- #23
a FEW MORE PHOTOS
Coolerman
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
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- www.globalsoftware-inc.com
amn! You passed me up! I'm still not working on the tub yet 
Still futzing with the rear axle and brake lines.Nice work! It all looks great so far. Do keep posting those pics, gives me something to compare to!
Looks very nice, keep up the good work and you'll be done before you know it.
looking good keep up the good work 
- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks for the motivation
Thanks for the good words,
Somehow I feel further behind then when it rolled in all in one piece but I'll feel better about it when the body goes back on and it looks like a cruiser again!
One thing that's helping me out is no serious rust issues to deal with, I've seen some incredible work done on the site but wouldn't want to have to tackle all that myself. But that's the reason I decided to go frame off an get it "saved" in it's present condition.
The second thing is I am deferring all the mods I want to do except the lift. Once it is back together and driveable I'll work those one at a time like Power Steering and Disc Brakes in the meantime I'm reading up!
This is my first resto so I want to get it up and running as soon as Poss
Thanks for the good words,
Somehow I feel further behind then when it rolled in all in one piece but I'll feel better about it when the body goes back on and it looks like a cruiser again!
One thing that's helping me out is no serious rust issues to deal with, I've seen some incredible work done on the site but wouldn't want to have to tackle all that myself. But that's the reason I decided to go frame off an get it "saved" in it's present condition.
The second thing is I am deferring all the mods I want to do except the lift. Once it is back together and driveable I'll work those one at a time like Power Steering and Disc Brakes in the meantime I'm reading up!
This is my first resto so I want to get it up and running as soon as Poss
- Thread starter
- #29
So so you think you're a tough guy?--undercoating removal
Holy Cow --removing the undercoating from the bottom has been a job!
Today it feels like I finally rounded the bend and am close to finishing ---A day or two more maybe to get the bottom prepped.
This has all been done from underneath either on a small stool or sitting on the floor. If I had to do it all over again I think I'd stand the body on end to do it and save the pain of working overhead.
Then again I seem to like doing things the hard way!
Could not find any easy removal method but a sharp wood chisel made the best s****er and using a propane torch softens the really thick stuff.
if it has turned hard it will s****e off clean but mostly not and the corners and edges are a pain. Maybe considering all the labor it would of been worth having it tanked but I want to do as much as I can myself at home.
I purchased some remover called undergone by Eastwood it will not eat away layers but it really helped once the main stuff is s****ed away to get the remaining residue off. I just sprayed it on and wiped it off with an old T shirt and it was a big help in getting the last little bits in the corners.
Holy Cow --removing the undercoating from the bottom has been a job!
Today it feels like I finally rounded the bend and am close to finishing ---A day or two more maybe to get the bottom prepped.
This has all been done from underneath either on a small stool or sitting on the floor. If I had to do it all over again I think I'd stand the body on end to do it and save the pain of working overhead.
Then again I seem to like doing things the hard way!
Could not find any easy removal method but a sharp wood chisel made the best s****er and using a propane torch softens the really thick stuff.
if it has turned hard it will s****e off clean but mostly not and the corners and edges are a pain. Maybe considering all the labor it would of been worth having it tanked but I want to do as much as I can myself at home.
I purchased some remover called undergone by Eastwood it will not eat away layers but it really helped once the main stuff is s****ed away to get the remaining residue off. I just sprayed it on and wiped it off with an old T shirt and it was a big help in getting the last little bits in the corners.
- Thread starter
- #30
A few more pics
With the bottom done soon I''ll be getting the body back on
I'm hoping for that to happen over the holiday weekend
Then things will be more interesting!
Undercoating kicked my butt good!
With the bottom done soon I''ll be getting the body back on
I'm hoping for that to happen over the holiday weekend
Then things will be more interesting!
Undercoating kicked my butt good!
- Thread starter
- #31
more progress
Here's some pics of the bottom with the por15 applied and starting with the chassis coat. I also tried some of the red polyurethane I will be painting it with on the cowl but it has been sanded down so looks a little different
Here's some pics of the bottom with the por15 applied and starting with the chassis coat. I also tried some of the red polyurethane I will be painting it with on the cowl but it has been sanded down so looks a little different
- Thread starter
- #32
a few more pics
and here's a couple more
just the wheel wells to go for the scraping and sanding
and here's a couple more
just the wheel wells to go for the scraping and sanding
awesome progress - I cant' wait to be at that stage.. that rust bullet looks good on the frame... did you end up using the rust bullet top coat or the por coat?? how did you apply it, brush or spray?
thanks
thanks
- Thread starter
- #35
POR over rust bullet
on the frame I used the rust bullet then primered it and used por 15 chassis black over that. I figure even if the chassis black and primer failed, it still has the bullet underneath. all applied by brush. The rust bullet is very thick and leaves brush marks but when I primered it I did a little block sanding until it looked acceptable then put on the chassis coat by brush
On the underneath of the tub I used only por 15 and chassis black
except on the cowl where it got a coat of por 15 primer then single stage polyurethane over that.
Considering all that work you can bet I'll be checking underneath often for any areas that might need attention down the road!
The final prep will be when I shoot a coat of waxoyl in the boxed sections --great stuff from the UK and you can get it in clear so potential buyers dont think you're covering something up- not that I will be selling it mind you!
on the frame I used the rust bullet then primered it and used por 15 chassis black over that. I figure even if the chassis black and primer failed, it still has the bullet underneath. all applied by brush. The rust bullet is very thick and leaves brush marks but when I primered it I did a little block sanding until it looked acceptable then put on the chassis coat by brush
On the underneath of the tub I used only por 15 and chassis black
except on the cowl where it got a coat of por 15 primer then single stage polyurethane over that.
Considering all that work you can bet I'll be checking underneath often for any areas that might need attention down the road!
The final prep will be when I shoot a coat of waxoyl in the boxed sections --great stuff from the UK and you can get it in clear so potential buyers dont think you're covering something up- not that I will be selling it mind you!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #36
painted the dash
here's the dash in hatteras white polyurethane. I'm toying with the idea of a camo clad dash over the poly and painting the inside of the tub then going over that with sand colored durabak
hmmmm---might be nice
hey on the wall there!-----isn't that an illegal bezel configuration?
here's the dash in hatteras white polyurethane. I'm toying with the idea of a camo clad dash over the poly and painting the inside of the tub then going over that with sand colored durabak
hmmmm---might be nice
hey on the wall there!-----isn't that an illegal bezel configuration?
Look good
That tub looks like it's in good shape. I don't see rust in the usual places & your wiring harness looks like no one has been hacking on it. Good find on that cruiser. Build looks good, keep up the work.
That tub looks like it's in good shape. I don't see rust in the usual places & your wiring harness looks like no one has been hacking on it. Good find on that cruiser. Build looks good, keep up the work.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks
Thanks for the good words,
If I remember right wiring is near and dear to your heart eh?
Thanks for the good words,
If I remember right wiring is near and dear to your heart eh?
in my opinion the name isnt so fitting anymore.
Coolerman
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
- Threads
- 142
- Messages
- 6,742
- Location
- Paint Lick, KY
- Website
- www.globalsoftware-inc.com
Wow! I don't think your frame will ever rust unless you scrape it to bare metal!
Looking forward to seeing what the sand colored Dura-Bak it looks like inside the cab. I bought the same color...
I decided to leave my frame Rust Bullet silver just to be different.
Excellent work, you should be done by mid summer!
Looking forward to seeing what the sand colored Dura-Bak it looks like inside the cab. I bought the same color...
I decided to leave my frame Rust Bullet silver just to be different.
Excellent work, you should be done by mid summer!
