2F Rebuild - First Timer (1 Viewer)

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Pin_Head اهلًا

Do these look like the three standards ?
Am I getting warmer ?

Thanks

No. Those are just normal taps.

Pipe thread is much more obviously tapered.

On your image the far left tap is known as a tapered tap which just makes it easier to cut the threads, but the thread itself is not tapered like on pipe threads.
 
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No. Those are just normal taps.

Pipe thread is much more obviously tapered.

On your image the far left tap is known as a tapered tap which just makes it easier to cut the threads, but the thread itself is not tapered like on pipe threads.


Got it thanks.
 
Ok will continue the build this afternoon. I hope.

Correction: that will be tomorrow afternoon. Need to go back in the morning to jack and cover all these cars.

Was busy moving all these cars.

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The pipe thread taps I have in the US have "NPT" on them identifying them as 'National Pipe Thread' and they are noticeably tapered. Not sure about other countries.
 
The pipe thread taps I have in the US have "NPT" on them identifying them as 'National Pipe Thread' and they are noticeably tapered. Not sure about other countries.

Cool thanks. I'm going to the part of town with all the tools. I'll look there. The local hardware store didn't come through and he has everything.

So will get some fresh loctite and look for the tapered taps.

I'll report back with my findings.

Thanks guys
 
Ok managed to find two contenders to the Loctite recommendation. I was told to use 271 or 272.

Found the local Loctite agent and he only had these two.

He said the 2701 is the same as 271.

Can someone confirm that ?

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Thanks
 
Ok I got all the new parts on a clean plastic surface ready for installation.

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All tools ready.
All bolts cleaned.
All threads cleaned.
All oils ready.

Will thoroughly clean block, head, crank and cam shafts one last time before assembly.

Tomorrow is is the big day. I know I'm running late to my end of Jan self set deadline. But I'm not in a rush.

Want to do this as best as I can.
 
I hope there is a Toyota 2F manual under that Haynes. If there is not, I'd get your hands on one before you start. You can down load it on MUD as well, but I like the paper version better.
 
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I hope there is a Toyota 2F manual under that Haynes. If there is not, I'd get your hands on one before you start. You can down load it on MUD as well, but if like the paper version better.

Yup I have a printed copy under there. Also downloaded onto my tablet and will have it up on the big screen as we move along.

Thanks
 
Because the garage had turned into my den I have the perks of some tech in this room so I have the FSM up on the TV mirrored on to my Apple TV through my iPad. This is fun already : ) can wait to start the build with the latest episode of gold rush in the background hahaha

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Tools that I'll be using for the build

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Will post more pictures on each tool as I end up using them.

So let's hope I dont get any interruptions today as the kids are going to a birthday party and I should be home all alone. ; )

Lol. How times have changed. Home alone means very different things at different stages of your life. Now it means time to build.

So let's get cracking.
 
Because the garage had turned into my den I have the perks of some tech in this room so I have the FSM up on the TV mirrored on to my Apple TV through my iPad. This is fun already : ) can wait to start the build with the latest episode of gold rush in the background hahaha

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Tools that I'll be using for the build

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Will post more pictures on each tool as I end up using them.

So let's hope I dont get any interruptions today as the kids are going to a birthday party and I should be home all alone. ; )

Lol. How times have changed. Home alone means very different things at different stages of your life. Now it means time to build.

So let's get cracking.

Good luck with the build.. I can't wait to see the progress, If I was remotely closer I'd offer a hand
 
Ok started to clean the cyclinder head and boy is it dirty from the shaving from that galley plug drilling and tapping.

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So will report back once that's clean.

I got a new new oil cooler but wanted to show you what the old one looked like

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The new one

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Couldn't find new bolts so will clean these up and use them again.

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Will put it aside and clean it on a weekend down the road.
 
Your going to need some pretty specialized brushes to clean out the oil passages if there is metal flakes in there and a lot of compressed air . The rule is - it's never clean enough when it comes to oiling , something always wants to find it's way into a new bearing . Pay very close attention to ring end gap and piston clearances , those are some of the most important and make the most difference between an engine that just runs , and one that runs like new with new specs - not half worn out specs .
Many rebuilds end up having the first 100,000 miles since those specs aren't closely adhered to .
Sarge
 
So we cleaned everything with a lot of petrol and compressed air.

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Started assembly

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Torqued everything to the first torque pressure and then to the second torque pressure.
The plasti gage Can't read it to save my life :))))

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They are all the same. What's the reading?
 
Your going to need some pretty specialized brushes to clean out the oil passages if there is metal flakes in there and a lot of compressed air . The rule is - it's never clean enough when it comes to oiling , something always wants to find it's way into a new bearing . Pay very close attention to ring end gap and piston clearances , those are some of the most important and make the most difference between an engine that just runs , and one that runs like new with new specs - not half worn out specs .
Many rebuilds end up having the first 100,000 miles since those specs aren't closely adhered to .
Sarge


Thanks will do. So glad I removed the threaded galley plug I had put in first. I had forgot to clean after tapping. Hahaha. Thank god for that.


I'm pretty sure it's as clean as it can get. We have done our best.

Will keep an close eye on piston clearances.

Thanks
 
Ok so some progress

Crankshaft and bearing caps are in and torqued.
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I had to redo them after finishing when I realized I was reading the torque wrench wrong. So that's all fixed now. And the crank rotates very nicely now. I could feel the difference from the first attempt.

Removed old piston and installed new piston on the connecting rod.

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Started to install the rings

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I'm reading the manual. But want to make sure that the rings are in correctly.

If I'm not mistaken ( number relate to clock face )

The oil ring upper side rail NSW is at 1.30

The oil ring lower side rail is at 7.30

No 1 which is the top ring is at 4.30

No 2 is the second ring from the top and that is positioned at 10.30

The oil ring has some yellow paint. That should be at 6

Does that sound correct ?

I'll wait for an answer before I continue with the next step.

Thanks guys.

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