2F Cooling System Plugged (1 Viewer)

[Oakley40]

I had a little time to start tearing into my new to me 2F. Pulled the upper oil cooler hose and found the thermostat housing port to the cooler was plugged completely.

Then pulled the water pump hose and found it to be plugged too.

Question...is this stop leak? If so, is there a concern that any of the passages in the engine could be plugged as well? I plan to install a new water pump, hoses and clean out the thermostat housing, but didn't plan on tearing too far into the engine, except gaskets, etc.

Next question...since the cooling system is pretty much ineffective, could there be damage to the engine due to overheating?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Hell yeah there is a concern, especially behind the #6 cylinder.

 

[Dizzy]

Try opening the drain cock on the block.

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

damn, that's pretty impressive...short of tearing that motor down, I can't think of anyway your gonna get that sh*t out of there.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Try opening the drain cock on the block.

And hope that dust doesn’t come out.

 

[Oakley40]

Well almost dust...

And this is after I gently stuck a punch into the plug...nothing. Looks and feels like its solid all the way.

 

[4x4veteran]

Keep us posted on the rebuild because that is the only way you are going to know it you have a dependable engine.

 

[Oakley40]

Is it possible to boil and flush that crud out of the water jacket during a rebuild?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I doubt there’s any way you can do this, but @sggoat provided these instructions a few years back... you may find a use for part of it.



These are the ‘cooling system flush’ and ‘reverse flush’ procedures that sggoat’s radiator shop provided – he was nice enough to obtain them for me and has no reservations about me sharing them with anyone who reads this.

sggoat’s radiator guy says, “…very seldom do you see a rad that is totally plugged -- you can usually flush the engine and rad as a whole":

Cooling System Flush

• Drain ~ 1 gal of coolant out of the system.
• Pull the t-stat.
• Mix ~ 1/2 small box Cascade in a gallon of hot water.
• Add to the system.
• Run the engine up to op temp(with the t-stat out, it may not get there-just run ~20 mins.)
• Let it sit overnite.
• Start back up to get it back to op temp(or 20 mins.)
• Let it cool and drain.
• Refill w/water and run up again.
• cool and drain.
• refill w/ normal coolant.(Note: they sometimes use Industrial Tide-but due to the excess foaming, I would not use it.)

Reverse Flush

The reverse flush is as the pics show below - The flush rig they have is very similar to most rad shop's standard units.(they elected to build their own as it is easier to replace filters, etc.)

You could do the engine alone with this--fill with the cleaner, let it sit, then flush/drain using a regular water hose(with the engine running----similar to flushing an outboard motor of salt water)

 

[Oakley40]

Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately the engine is not installed, nor is it in any condition to run at this point.

 

[4x4veteran]

For an engine cooling system to get in the condition shown in the pictures there are going to be other issues so a complete tear down and inspection is the only way to go.

What is the history of the engine? looks like it has set for a long time.

It may have been frozen and damage done. Any freeze plugs pushed out?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

For an engine cooling system to get in the condition shown in the pictures there are going to be other issues so a complete tear down and inspection is the only way to go.

What is the history of the engine? looks like it has set for a long time.

It may have been frozen and damage done. Any freeze plugs pushed out?

at first i just looked at the first few photo's and briefly assumed it was indeed ICE

but after a minute or so read the comment's posted and was like Holy SH#T


i bet hands down that was caused by like over use of Cooling System STOP leak or a similar product

the Top Tank on the Radiator was probably leaking around the usual spots along the RIM seal , or the engine

was simply consuming coolant some other way , and some PO , just kept adding it till the leak or

consumption stopped ..............


IMO: the only effective way to resolve this issue 100% is a complete Dissemble of the entire 2F engine and

Cylinder Head , including removal of all the freeze plugs , and other threaded Ports plugs , & fully immerse

the Block & Head in a FULL Scale Machine Shop style HOT Tank solution and let a Master Machinist determine

when it's all cleaned out .......


I can only think there would be a Significant Cost associated with this process ?


If anyone knows whats in a Professional Machine Shop's Hot Tank Solution please chime in your input

 

[ToyotaMatt]

on a somewhat related topic ,

Around this time last year i was contacted by a new client who had just purchased a recently Imported

1982 FJ43L-KC

I had no indoor shop space at the time so i kept it covered outside my main shop door


one cold morning i went to move it out of the way as usual & the Drive belt started Smoking , i freaked out and .

grabbed the fire extinguisher thinking it was a fuel related fire , but quickly smelled a Burning Tire-Like odor



i popped the hood and was Greeted by this ..................

 

[Steamer]

Wow! that baby's blocked. "If" you decide the engine is ok otherwise and want to try some radical flushing, here's one link. >>"Flushing"

 

[ToyotaMatt]

So after i used Warm/ HOT water garden hose to Thaw off & OUT the engine , i tested a sample of coolant i had

caught in a cup , & it was like 10% antifreeze approx. There was Very Recent Cooling system work done in the

form of New Lower Radiator Hose's #1 & #2 , The JERK in Florida who still calls himself to this day a

LandCruiser Import-Export Service filled the post repair FJ43 up with Straight TAP Water ..........


I was very Lucky to have Only Lost 1 cylinder head freeze Plug shown in the photo below
&
the Radiator lower tank Blew almost clean off ....



The entire 2F Engine was Indeed Frozen SOLID to the Core Ice-Block



so crazy things do happen Like the bad news about @Oakley40 's New to him 2F ......

 

[Weber Sarge]

I doubt a machine shop will put that engine in a hot tank in that condition - they will want to spend the time to rod out all of the hardened deposits first, then tank the block and head after cleaning it out. Otherwise, they actually risk destroying the tank solution in short order and may damage the pump/nozzle system in the machine. I spent years working with a hot tank paying back shop time on an experimental engine build for my old Suzuki Samurai - so I got the fun part of taking blocks and heads out, rinsing very heavily and then the race to re-oil cylinder walls and such after any bore work had been done. Almost all shops will initially hot-tank an engine disassembled, do the machine work and run it through the tank again to remove any machining debris - a very important step.

That caustic crap is nasty, tears up your sinus cavities and will easily burn your skin chemically, not to mention the heat involved. The shop I worked in ran their system at 300*F, so yeah- not a fun job and you had to watch your step or get badly burned.

It would not surprise me if there was a crack found in at least the cylinder head, maybe even the engine block. I'd go hunt down whoever did that to it and slap them stupid - that engine may be scrap. Honestly, you'd be money ahead to find another engine - it will take an acid bath dip to remove that much scale and garbage out of all the casting voids internally, which is almost impossible. A hot tank will not clean that engine out enough to do the job correctly - you'll be left with an engine that is constantly running hot in places the debris is hiding. Might ask your favorite engine builder to take a look at it and give an estimate/opinion as to scrap or try to fix it. Either way, not a cheap endeavor.

Sarge

 

[Oakley40]

For an engine cooling system to get in the condition shown in the pictures there are going to be other issues so a complete tear down and inspection is the only way to go.

What is the history of the engine? looks like it has set for a long time.

It may have been frozen and damage done. Any freeze plugs pushed out?

I've asked the seller for more information on the engine. All freeze plugs are intact with no signs of leaking, but they probably have a 1/4" of Stop Leak sealing them up.

I'm not against the idea of having it torn down and rebuilt, it just wasn't in "Plan A". I bought the engine with the idea of running it after resealing it and replacing wear parts. On to plan B...but I'm wondering if this engine is worth the risk, due to unforeseen future problems as @Weber Sarge mentions.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I doubt a machine shop will put that engine in a hot tank in that condition - they will want to spend the time to rod out all of the hardened deposits first, then tank the block and head after cleaning it out. Otherwise, they actually risk destroying the tank solution in short order and may damage the pump/nozzle system in the machine. I spent years working with a hot tank paying back shop time on an experimental engine build for my old Suzuki Samurai - so I got the fun part of taking blocks and heads out, rinsing very heavily and then the race to re-oil cylinder walls and such after any bore work had been done. Almost all shops will initially hot-tank an engine disassembled, do the machine work and run it through the tank again to remove any machining debris - a very important step.

That caustic crap is nasty, tears up your sinus cavities and will easily burn your skin chemically, not to mention the heat involved. The shop I worked in ran their system at 300*F, so yeah- not a fun job and you had to watch your step or get badly burned.

It would not surprise me if there was a crack found in at least the cylinder head, maybe even the engine block. I'd go hunt down whoever did that to it and slap them stupid - that engine may be scrap. Honestly, you'd be money ahead to find another engine - it will take an acid bath dip to remove that much scale and garbage out of all the casting voids internally, which is almost impossible. A hot tank will not clean that engine out enough to do the job correctly - you'll be left with an engine that is constantly running hot in places the debris is hiding. Might ask your favorite engine builder to take a look at it and give an estimate/opinion as to scrap or try to fix it. Either way, not a cheap endeavor.

Sarge

I've asked the seller for more information on the engine. All freeze plugs are intact with no signs of leaking, but they probably have a 1/4" of Stop Leak sealing them up.

I'm not against the idea of having it torn down and rebuilt, it just wasn't in "Plan A". I bought the engine with the idea of running it after resealing it and replacing wear parts. On to plan B...but I'm wondering if this engine is worth the risk, due to unforeseen future problems as @Weber Sarge mentions.

@Weber Sarge is clearly the expert on the hot tank topic , i did not know half those Facts in his Post , but now do

THANKS !



IMO: as for what to do now , ask for your $ back , make sure to offer the

engine back also as well at the same time , this would be important


or

simply ask the seller for another GOOD 2F engine if they have one first before harsh action is taken

maybe the seller did not Know ?

Looks like a 60 Series engine 2F to me , based solely on the AC Bracket motor mount & the KYOSAN

Fuel pump inlet and outlet metal tube ports ?

 

[4x4veteran]

on a somewhat related topic ,

Around this time last year i was contacted by a new client who had just purchased a recently Imported

1982 FJ43L-KC

I had no indoor shop space at the time so i kept it covered outside my main shop door


one cold morning i went to move it out of the way as usual & the Drive belt started Smoking , i freaked out and .

grabbed the fire extinguisher thinking it was a fuel related fire , but quickly smelled a Burning Tire-Like odor



i popped the hood and was Greeted by this ..................


View attachment 1886566 View attachment 1886567 View attachment 1886568 View attachment 1886569 View attachment 1886570

When I moved to 5500 feet in the high desert in 1980 I didn't think to up the coolant mix what I was running at sea level.
I was just starting to build my house and didn't have garage yet.
One freezing morning I fired up the Cruiser and got the burning rubber smell.
The water pump was slushed up and wouldn't turn causing the belt to slip.
Luckily it wasn't bad enough to cause any damage to the pump or anything else.

I was wondering if the water pump on the gummed up engine turns.

 

[middlecalf]

At a minimum I’d pull the water pump and look inside that hole and see what’s there. Then make a decision.