middlecalf

This is a PITA upgrade. Wish there were some hints on cutting this stuff. If it’s cut uninstalled it mismatches when installed. If cut when installed, it has to be removed several times to finess the cuts to fit each other well. Mine barely...

Ever figure this out? I’m in the middle of this. Looks like on my ‘65 that the outside flange part of the vertical channel is a little wider, so I’m assuming that’s for the wider part in this rubber piece that holds the window in place. Still...

Yeah, that’s different. Post a pic of the engine side of the firewall.

Originally that is the transfer case vacuum actuator for the front wheel drive (FD), and the light is the indicator that the front drive is engaged. Not sure though what that replacement knob is for unless it’s some makeshift thingy that still...

I don’t think ‘64 came stock with a reverse light, so you’d have to wire in something aftermarket. Still have the 3-on the tree? You’ll have to wire in a switch to that, or go with a dash switch. But if your dash is pretty much untouched, it’s...

Ah got it. The brake lights work, but nothing blinks. I’ll check everything out. The dimmer worked on the front lights when I tested it. I assume I will need to wire in reverse lights to a switch? Funny story…when I was younger in the 80s there...

Congrats on the “old” cruiser. The only thing better than a ‘64 is a ‘65 and a ‘63, cuz that’s what I got 😝. Rear tailights, turn signal lights and brake lights are one unit on your rig. So check the connections and grounds like you said...

I understand the sentiment, but that isn’t my way. I’m letting the seller know what’s going on and hopefully we can work something out.

I just referred a person to you that wants these hinges PM sent, consider them sold. @hyhpe

It worked 😄! Elementary, my dear Watson, elementary.

...and with the quarter panel repair complete, I moved on to the last major piece of rust repair that I'll be going on this truck: the front of the driver's side inner fender. This was a tricky panel to make as it involves a tipped flange, a...

I have updates. After protracted bout of procrastination, I was finally left with no choice but to start work on this rusty quarter panel. Most of the quarter is pretty decent, actually, except for one long, thin strip where the inner fender...

Look at you. A regular Sherlock. Thank you.

Is all that electrical original to the rig?

71265-60010 Spring, passenger seat hinge stopper. Long discontinued. Bump 😛

Jinkees, I never thought to feel how hot my coil was throughout all my tribulations.

I got the 2-1/16” tach to fit in an existing PO hole in the dash. I don’t think it came with the bracket like the Autometer one you posted. I have an Autometer mounted on my column in my SBC’d ‘65 40.

Here is the diagram and schematic for the small-cap, electronic distributor for 1978 MY:

Got it. So we can't prove correlation. It could just be a coincidence. What were other symptoms of your coil failure?

Rough running, stalling but eventually wouldn’t start (cranked, no fire). It had maybe 2 ohms resistance on primary (bounced around) and was completely open (no resistance) on secondary. This is the tach I have, I too didn’t need anything above...

From my 1978 Engine Manual: I don't know if I have the external resistor or not. I will go find out!

The coil can fail with turn to turn shorts or it can just open up. It will change as it heats up. You can get a good spark testing it with an open plug but the spark will be weak when under compression. My old JD 140 with the 1 cylinder Kohler...

I am eyeing this tach as I don't need one that goes up to 5k RPM! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2890

My Speedhut tach needed replacement (it was still under warranty), but I honestly can’t say if it caused the death of the coil or the other way around, or the events were completely unrelated. I replaced the coil first (city racer coil), and rig...

However, if coil is seperate, here’s a basic means of testing such