22REvolution. An 85 Pickup West Texas Build. (4 Viewers)

[snobdds]

Hopefully your other truck has a good bracket, but I don't know enough about the little details between the two years to be 100%. I have frame to bed bolts if you need them...free of charge. I just want to get rid of them.

I think you made a good choice in going with the 85. If it was me and since you have a lift, I would put in the W56 manual transmission in. You have all the brackets, clutch pedal and linkages to do a direct swap. The 85 extended cab is a pretty sought after commodity though. Keep that in the back of your mind before you chop and bob a lot of things up.

With your fuel pump looking like that, I would at the minimum pull the damper on the fuel rail and check for rust. I saw one time where a truck that sat for a long time had rust in the fuel rail. Baffled thinking the fuel filter should have caught all the rust, but it was actually the fuel filter canister itself that was rusting out. Go figure.

 

[Infamous82]

+1 on the 85 extra cab being a commodity. Very few of those left out there. I would not even think about bobbing it, but that's me. Nice find and good luck with the build

 

[BioTex]

Good luck finding one of those fuel pump brackets. NLA.

Why do I need a new bracket? Mine is intact. Just needs cleaned up and a new pump with sock unless I'm missing something.

 

[BioTex]

I was planning to install a flat bed kit that Trail Gear sells. It does call for shortening the frame rails and removing 2 bed mounts up towards the front. Not totally unreversable mods, but it would be a pain. I suppose I could always keep it stock and cut on the 86 std cab truck. It is IFS and cerb'd so I felt the 85 would be a much more capable off-roader so I went with it.
May have to rethink the build. I could simply purchase a Hendrix chassis that bolts onto the frame for the 86 truck.

Here are my plans...

Phase One!
TG flat bed kit
sliders
bumpers
stinger on the front
roll cage

Phase 2.
chevy springs or 4 link. Undecided...
flatter belly
lockers
disc brakes

 

[Mudder]

Did you check allpro? Or why not build your own?

 

[BioTex]

Did you check allpro? Or why not build your own?

I have not seen or heard of All-Pro before. This is my first Toy build so I'm not familiar with all the different vendors. Thanks for the tip though. I'll check them out. As for building my own, I'm assuming you're talking about a 4-link?
If so, I don't have that kind of experience yet. Better for me to purchase a kit the first go around.
Here is my first attempt at building a tube cage on a YJ frame. Too many rookie mistakes.

 

[BioTex]

Just spent an hour looking over the All-Pro site. OMG I'm in love! I could instantly drop $3k there. In fact I think I will... Christmas going to come early in my man cave for sure. Thanks Mudder!

 

[Mudder]

Trail great around here isn't what we like. They tend to make lower quality stuff. Especially their springs. Not saying don't shot their just we tend to use all pro or Marlin Crawler for most stuff and Toyota of course.

 

[Toast]

Yea trail mart is the harbor freight of 4x4. I like using smaller higher quality companies but a lot of the time the smaller guys don't have things in stock or no longer make things. Plus there are some things you just can't beat on price.

 

[BioTex]

The guy I bought (stole) the two trucks from tells me (between many beers) that he has a Toy axle out back that I might want. So I brave the goat head stickers and super tall weeds and take a peek. Turns out its a V6 complete axle. I noticed it had the four ribs so that is how I determined it was off a V6 truck. It looks to be in really good shape.
I'm thinking I can get it super cheap but want to make sure it is a good upgrade to my 4 cyl. diff. He said it was from a mid 80's truck but didn't know the gearing. Will my center section swap into it if the gearing is not a match? It has drum brakes but look to be a lot bigger than mine. Might save me from needing disc brakes with the 35's I plan to run.
Also since this axle is wider, I would need spacers up front correct?
Edit: Almost forgot...
He has the automatic tranny and x-fer case that came off the V6. Are those of any use to me?

 

[pappy]

Will my center section swap into it if the gearing is not a match? It has drum brakes but look to be a lot bigger than mine. Might save me from needing disc brakes with the 35's I plan to run. Also since this axle is wider, I would need spacers up front correct?

Yep, the V6 diff is a common swap into 4cyl trucks. It's a great way to get the gearing you want since they were available in 4.56 and 4.88. You don't need to space out your front unless you want to.

 

[BioTex]

Yep, the V6 diff is a common swap into 4cyl trucks. It's a great way to get the gearing you want since they were available in 4.56 and 4.88. You don't need to space out your front unless you want to.

Thanks Pappy!. I was thinking the spacers up front were more more for tire clearances as opposed to looks, but a wider stance is always a good thing on a lifted vehicle. I'm getting seriously interested in the extreme lift kit All-Pro sells. Once i get this 85 truck running and the interior cleaned up, I will probably pull the trigger on a 4-5" lift. I'm still in the " might as well" stages of the build, as I'm trying my best to not jump in head first. trying to research and think it through a bit better than past projects.

 

[Mudder]

Why not ifs hubs up front over spacers?

 

[BioTex]

Why not ifs hubs up front over spacers?

I do not know about IFS Hubs. Will research it so thanks for the tip. However, it doesn't look good for the deal to go thru. The guy decided to search for a matching front axle so he can use them in his Zuk. He said the rear axle is not for sale. That's ok, I can use the 86 axle if I want to, but better to let something break before upgrading. Been down that road too many times before.

 

[BioTex]

Since no parts have arrived yet, I started taking apart the interior for a good cleaning. Think I'll ditch the vinyl flooring and spray it with U-Pol Raptor. I can always add carpet later if I want but doubtful. I'm going with a roll cage inside. Headliner is in crap shape so it will need to come out also. I do like it up above for keeping the heat away so may go with some sort of insulation yet to be determined.
Hoping the fuel pump arrives tomorrow. Ready to get her running.

 

[Mudder]

http://www.yotatech.com/f31/widening-79-85-toyota-sfa-without-wheel-spacers-59071/

 

[KLF]

Removing the headliner is a huge pain, if you want to get it all out. You have to pull the rear side windows and the rear window. Best to do it with a piece of 3/16" string or rope.

 

[Toast]

Hmmmm seems ok but drilling rotors every time you need to do a brake job would be annoying. Also drilling out knuckle ears seems.... I don't know, wasteful? Spacers don't seem horrible. I run them and never have had an issue. If you can still use the knuckles with the original calipers after drilling them then I'd say maybe but I hate modified things that you can't go back on.

 

[Mudder]

That is just one of many ways to do it. I dknt like that method either. But there's tons of threads on doing it

 

[BioTex]

Thanks again Mudder for the link. I will put it in the back of my mind when the time comes and see what all the alternative methods are. Update for today is the fuel pump/sock and fuel filter arrived. I installed them both without incident. The filter is a pain to get to, but not so bad using a lift. I blew out the supply line while I was at it. Lots of smelly gas inside. This truck sat for several years and it shows. Previously I had noticed that the sending unit was gummed up and the float arm wasn't sliding up or down. I soaked it in cleaner and was able to get smooth and full articulation of the lever. I put my DVOM on the leads and got a reading that looked normal. Not sure what the ohm was supposed to be, but I got something like 90+ at full and 23ohms at empty. It's easy enough to change out later if it proves to not work properly. Here is the new pump mounted on the bracket.