22REvolution. An 85 Pickup West Texas Build. (4 Viewers)

[BioTex]

I have available to me a choice between one of two 4x4 pickups. Both are showing a build year of 1985, but one is solid axle up front and the other is straight axle. The early model straight axle truck is a stick where the other is an automatic. The late model is extended cab and the early model is standard cab.

Both engines are unknown, but were said to be running when parked. Both these trucks are rough, but the late model one is rustier by far. It has a good title where the early model one doesn't.
I get to chose which one I want for a project, but am having difficulty deciding. If I look at only the cosmetic condition, then the early one wins but the no title part is a tough one. I'm sure with enough effort, I could get a title, but pretty sure it will take a lot of time and who knows how much $$$.

I'm, looking to build some sort of an off-road rig somewhere between a crawler and a baja buggy. Not full blown in either direction, but just something to play around in. I have a full shop with a lift and a bender at my disposal, and am capable of using it. This would be my first Toyota build up, so I don't really know the merits of which front end would be the better choice to go with. Most of my experience is with solid axles, but the coils look better up front IMO. I'm 6'3" so the extended cab suits me better, but the roof of the cab is sooo rusted out. Not sure I want to tackle that part.

Anyway, would love some friendly advice to help sway me in the right direction. I could go with an exo-skeleton for strength, but was looking to stay light for the rocks. Decisions Decisions....
Wish I gould get them both, but that is not an option. I have to pick.

 

[KLF]

"Solid axle" is the same thing as "Straight axle". The only other option is IFS, which changed in '86 in the US market.

Get the VINs, check the 10th digit, it will tell you the year.

I would never own a regular cab of this vintage. Actually, I did once, a 2WD, and the cab was extremely cramped, and I'm only 5'-7". I even find the Xtra cab tight sometimes.

Need to see some pics to help. Frame rust is more important than body rust.

 

[BioTex]

"Solid axle" is the same thing as "Straight axle". The only other option is IFS, which changed in '86 in the US market.

Get the VINs, check the 10th digit, it will tell you the year.

I would never own a regular cab of this vintage. Actually, I did once, a 2WD, and the cab was extremely cramped, and I'm only 5'-7". I even find the Xtra cab tight sometimes.

Need to see some pics to help. Frame rust is more important than body rust.

KLF,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, one truck is straight axle AKA solid axle. The later model one is IFS, and yes it is an 86 year model that was manufactured in late 85 according to the door sticker. The cab size is a definite problem on the standard cabs, so i am leaning towards the extended cab. I guess I'm a bit hesitant about an IFS setup since I have never owned one before. All my experience is with straight axles. I'm wondering if the IFS is as durable??? Then there is the matter of the auto tranny in the 86 truck. I can rebuild a manual tranny, but never attempted an auto. So far I'm leaning towards the 86 due to it having a title, but again the cab is pretty rusted at the rain drip edges.

Will try to get some pictures up as soon as I can get back over to the yard.

 

[KLF]

The IFS is very durable, if you torch it off and install a solid axle.

Seriously, I think you're better off converting the IFS than starting with the earlier truck. The IFS frame is stronger at the front, and the push-pull steering on the older trucks is terrible, so you'll want the IFS steering box anyway, just go to hi-steer and be done.

You don't rebuild these autos. You toss them in the scrapyard and install a 5-speed.

Dunno about Texas, but anything older that 15 years in NH doesn't require a title, I don't have a title for my truck. Just a bill of sale is all you need here. Check with your DMV.

 

[Mudder]

The auto trannys are not bad as long as you aren't running huge tires. The main issues with them are the solenoids go out, they can be heated up because of smaller coolers and the transfer case is attached. That being said I loved my auto off road and my manual is eh to me. A lot more control with the auto. But it does have its set backs. Next time you're over there can we get what transmission is in the auto though? If it's an f the transfer case thing I said is wrong.

 

[BioTex]

"Solid axle" is the same thing as "Straight axle". The only other option is IFS, which changed in '86 in the US market.

Get the VINs, check the 10th digit, it will tell you the year.

I would never own a regular cab of this vintage. Actually, I did once, a 2WD, and the cab was extremely cramped, and I'm only 5'-7". I even find the Xtra cab tight sometimes.

Need to see some pics to help. Frame rust is more important than body rust.

KLF,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, one truck is straight axle AKA solid axle. The later model one is IFS, and yes it is an 86 year model that was manufactured in late 85 according to the door sticker. The cab size is a definite problem on the standard cabs, so i am leaning towards the extended cab. I guess I'm a bit hesitant about an IFS setup since I have never owned one before. All my experience is with straight axles. I'm wondering if the IFS is as durable??? Then there is the matter of the auto tranny in the 86 truck. I can rebuild a manual tranny, but never attempted an auto. So far I'm leaning towards the 86 due to it having a title, but again the cab is pretty rusted at the rain drip edges.

Will try to get some pictures up as soon as I can get back over to the yard.

The IFS is very durable, if you torch it off and install a solid axle.

Seriously, I think you're better off converting the IFS than starting with the earlier truck. The IFS frame is stronger at the front, and the push-pull steering on the older trucks is terrible, so you'll want the IFS steering box anyway, just go to hi-steer and be done.

You don't rebuild these autos. You toss them in the scrapyard and install a 5-speed.

Dunno about Texas, but anything older that 15 years in NH doesn't require a title, I don't have a title for my truck. Just a bill of sale is all you need here. Check with your DMV.

Good info. I'm agreeing with going with the IFS truck. To be honest i'm going to sweeten the deal to try to get both. Sorry but still no pictures. I went to the yard but it was too dark so I drank beer instead

 

[BioTex]

Update: I now own both trucks. Got a sweet deal IMO. I had the two mixed up though. The Solid axle truck is the extended cab model which has the good title. I finally got some pictures. Here is the IFS truck:

Here is the straight axle truck:

 

[Devils Paw 80]

"
I would never own a regular cab of this vintage. Actually, I did once, a 2WD, and the cab was extremely cramped, and I'm only 5'-7". I even find the Xtra cab tight sometimes....

Maybe the 2WD is smaller, or maybe the person's body width is more of an issue than length. I'm 6'5" with long legs and find my '92 standard cab 4x4 to be fine. An FJ40, on the other hand, has ridiculously limited leg room.
Both of those trucks look pretty rough...

 

[KLF]

2WD and 4WD are the same inside, same floor pan, same doors.

A '92 is the next generation, much different interior.

Those trucks are pretty rough. That roof is gonna be hard to fix, at least it would be for me.

 

[Mudder]

Rag top!

 

[Makelo]

Like previously mentioned, the fifth Gen Hilux cabin (84 to 88) are a lot smaller than the 6 Gen cabin (89 to 95) that's why I went 6 Gen over the 5 Gen and I'm a happy driver (6'4 long legs)

Although I was told that both 5 Gen & 6 Gen Hilux / pickup share the same chassis

 

[BioTex]

Yes, these trucks are rough, but I got them very cheap. I'll just be happy if they run! LOL ...Lots of work ahead of me

 

[BioTex]

Trucks will be in my shop tonight, and I have been giving the upcoming project of combining the two trucks into one driver. It was mentioned that the IFS frame is stronger up front than the solid axle frame. Is this a big deal and I should factor it into my decision on which frame to use? If so, then I will need to swap the cab and the solid axle onto the tan truck. This will mean a bobbed bed in back. I can do this, but would probably go with a custom tube bed. This will lead to an exo-cage no doubt. Doable also! Just want to start off on the right path so I don't have to back track. This project is stricktl a toy for me. I could link it later because I always wanted to try my hand at that, but for now I just want to get sorted out what is my short term goal.

After this weekend I will asses the rust and see if the xtra cab chasis is worth keeping. I hope so...

 

[Toast]

The extra cab frame is longer than the single cab frame. I'm not sure but I don't think you can just "bolt up" the standard cab into the Xtra cab frame. If the frame is rust free, use the Xtra cab one. As for the IFS frames being stronger, they are only different in the front because of the different steering setup. Many companies sell frame plates that go from the front horn all the way back to the first body mount. This will make your frame way stronger than stock. Also, low range sells a front frame gusset to add strength to the front. If it was me, I would try and stick with the solid axle Xtra cab truck.

 

[BioTex]

If it was me, I would try and stick with the solid axle Xtra cab truck.

Advice noted and I'm in agreement. Both trucks are home now and I'm able to access any damage better. Spent a while cleaning out deer pellets a packrat had stashed everywhere on the 86 truck. It looks to be very complete and in pretty good shape except where someone took the lower cover off the steering column. Something going on with something electrical under there no doubt. Going to clean out the gas tank and blow out the lines soon. Might as well see if she's a runner.

 

[BioTex]

Where is the appropriate place in this forum to start a build thread? This one?

 

[pappy]

Where is the appropriate place in this forum to start a build thread? This one?

You can continue on with this thread, mostly because of the acquisition history. I would change the title if you are going to start building. If you can't change the title send me a PM and I'll fix.

 

[BioTex]

Update:
I have decided to concentrate my energy on the 85 Blue truck. Reason being;
it has a title. it has the EFI engine with A/C, it has the solid axle front, and it is an X-tra cab.

I gave the engine a good cleaning with my hot water pressure washer and some degreaser. Keeping in mind this truck last ran in 92, I put it on the lift to see about removing the gas tank for cleaning. I was pleasantly surprised to see a drain plug, so decided to start with removing it. Turned out the tank was empty so I flushed it out with fresh gas. Not perfect, but perhaps enough to get running or at least cough.

I looked at the oil, and it was right at the full mark and not too dirty looking. I deemed it good enough just to test the ignition system. I went to add water to the radiator, and found that the lower hose clamps were loose and the hose had been removed on one end. I got to thinking it sure looked like someone drained the fuel, removed the battery and drained the radiator for long term storage. At least I was hoping...

A fresh battery later, and I had the engine cranking. I could not hear the fuel pump at all, even with my ear to the tank. A tiny squirt of starting fluid had the engine firing and trying to run, so I am of the opinion the fuel pump is out. Next step is to remove the fuel filter and then jumper the fuel pump check connector and verify fuel flow. If none, then I will order a couple of new filters and a Denso pump with strainer.

Since the truck was on the lift, I sprayed the bed bolts with penetrating oil in preparation of removal. I say this because I plan to purchase the TG tube bed kit they offer. Not set in stone yet, but I'm thinking it fits my plans for the truck.

Question: No way those bed bolts come off intact right? If I twist them off is it a pain in the ass to correct it, or will I be able to install new bolts? This is of course only if I go back with the OEM bed temporarily. Unlikely but keeping my options open at this time.

 

[BioTex]

Had a chance today to work on my junk. Removed the bed, removed the fuel tank and took out the fuel pump. I plan to clean the tank and replace the pump and filters as well as blow out the lines. This should insure a fresh supply of clean fuel. here are some shots of the progress:

 

[KLF]

Good luck finding one of those fuel pump brackets. NLA.