1980 Beater Build!! (1 Viewer)

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I read where you wanted to use molylube #1 but all I could find was #2 so I called warn and they said any molygrease but dont use very much. As seen in the link I provided there are some spots that you do not want grease you want machine oil. Once I got done I had it all painted up but I was having problems getting it back together it wouldn't mate by a 1/4 inch so I took it all back apart and screwed the pretty part up..... The gears just werent meshing up with the drum and all I had to do was take it off the motor side and just play with the drum and the gear side.
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I had these laying around so we mounted one up for a spare.
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Here is a better pic of the tires than I posted earlier. These are nothing special but I picked them up for 400 with wheels
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We also got the high lift jack mounted but it was too late for pics
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Here are a few pics from the square tube project
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cut a little sliver as a guide
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Beat it together...... not in pic I beat it closer for a good weld
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So the run I have been getting ready for is over.... I must say it was awesome!!! I was so suprised at how hard my yota pulled. It has been 8 or maybe 9 years since I wheeled at this caliber which at that time bald 36s on a yota was big!!! Now bald 36s were an ancor. We started things off with one of the worse of the worst spots that was a wicked steep big articulation huge rocky hill climb. A couple rigs made it after some wicked attempts along with my friend with 47s however the rest had to winch. I credited myself to a lucky bounce but worked my way right up it :eek: After that it was on to tight trails and wicked ruts/mud/holes. I talked a bit of crap on this forum about not knowing if the 63" springs were going to be skis without 40 inch tires and although I still stand true about the need of large tires to offset the cons I eat total crow they were wicked (one of many vetical 3-4' to straight up incline drop I hit about 3"of the rear springs but cut right through and barely noticed)!!! I am not totally sure about the double shackle and at this point may ditch them as they unloaded once that made me decide to let off the brake and hammer throttle but all the rest of the time I didnt notice them and do not know if the crazy articulation should be credited to them or just the spring :meh:. I admit we hit one particular spot first before the croud and I think I was three rigs back but I pulled a spot that I saw at minimum 10 rigs break axles/hubs trying to get up (again they had the tree roots more exposed etc). I didnt have time to take pictures as I was white knuckled 25% of the time and trying to help others the other 50%...... Uhhhh ya I left 25% open for my shear lazyness. I had to winch one time (winch rebuild worked great!) My springs settled I bet I only have 3" of uptravel in front now.... I plan to gain 1.5" of front lift by refabbing the front pack soon. I rubbed in areas of the front that I thought I was 100% for sure clear which cut the tires up a bit but not so bad to :frown: (Nothing a sledge hammer wont fix!) Even though I rated on what I believe to be 250% of my expectations my friend with his wicked creation and 47s pulled 2wd broke down vehicles up the stuff I accomplished...... that dude is sick. My other good friend that has not taken the 9 year wheelin vacation stated "ok screw it I will weld my front end up too"
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I did however put it on its side a few times through some nutzo ruts and scratched/banged a fender/door/cab up. :D Shoot I am happy the cab still holds glass
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I dropped the front leafs (stock rears) back out and added another leaf out of the trail gear lift springs I had. I also added a very short maybe 8" overload to the driver side just to make up the small difference in perch heights. So far it definately feels stiffer :frown: but i think its the best choice and it gives me just over 4" of space between the bumpstop and pad (springs flat) and obviously didnt mess with the droop. I really dug the soft suspension but it didnt take much led foot to bounce it off the bump stops after adding the bumper and winch! Once the 4.3 is added I think it would have been rediculous. I suppose thats why everyone else I read adds more than 1 spring to the stock rears.... :rolleyes:

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So i needed a place to put chains, my lunch, tools (so they don't fly around in the cab and hit my 3 year old), straps, spare parts, etc. I was trying to figure out what to do since a truck box even for a mid size truck was going to stick out just enough to get killed since my tubes are slightly dovetailed. I had a full size box laying around from when I bought my power stroke so....:hmm:

Luckily I have a talented friend that was able to cut it down and weld it back together including reinforcing the inside where it is cut plus I placed a piece of plywood in it to distribute the load as well as the beating it will take.
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Last but not least I know this is not a chat forum but a good friend of mine made the top 50 on the top truck challenge and if you happen to get a free second please do not hesitate to vote for him as I can assure you he will put on a show!
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We just got back from Mudfest here in Oregon. It was as usual a wild time. I didn't take very many pictures but here are a couple. It went well except obviously in that kind of environment (farmers field that is totally destroyed with the occasional huge hole dug with an excavator I needed way more wheel speed yet I was happy with the way things went. There is one spot that you wind up a very wicked articulating rivine that I eventually screwed around enough to force my self into tipping over on my side. I am trying to find a pic of that and if I do I will post it as well.
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So again I can't blame anything for this other than me purposely tipping it over for something to do since I had a soft landing... :meh: (I just dont want anyone to start blaming the double shackles, the ride height, the price of tea in china, etc.) However as a result of the lack of power I just ordered the AA adapter for my 4.3 vortec to go behind my R150. I will throw the chain drive case behind it for now until I can afford the next adapter word to put my dual gear cases back there.


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So I know this is a bit more of a pirate type question but I am more of an Ih8mud type person so here goes. I have searched my but off using google and have not found what I am looking for. While I do agree that centerforce is awesome I am looking at purchasing a standard clutch. I am looking for a part number on what WILL work on a 4.3 to R150 tranny using a 153 flywheel. I would rather use a three finger pressure plate to prevent mud problems but am trying to figure out if I need to stick to a diaphram style due to short throw issues..... I also can not tell if teh land cruiser master is a must or not based off of all the info I have found. I already have a fj slave cylinder
 
So I know this is a bit more of a pirate type question but I am more of an Ih8mud type person so here goes. I have searched my but off using google and have not found what I am looking for. While I do agree that centerforce is awesome I am looking at purchasing a standard clutch. I am looking for a part number on what WILL work on a 4.3 to R150 tranny using a 153 flywheel. I would rather use a three finger pressure plate to prevent mud problems but am trying to figure out if I need to stick to a diaphram style due to short throw issues..... I also can not tell if teh land cruiser master is a must or not based off of all the info I have found. I already have a fj slave cylinder

A tacoma clutch disc is 9 and 7/8 inches which is larger than a 9 inch minitruck clutch. They share the same input splines tho.

Might just toss a taco disc in a chev pressure plate and flywheel.
Remember the toyota flywheel (taco or mini) is step ground at .020 and a GM flywheel is flat.
 
Holy crud I was like :eek: someone replied to my questions!!! thanks I will definately start exploring that possibility!!
 
Chop Shop,
Thanks again! You gave me enough of an idea to start spending my time searching that path and it sure appears to be the answer I was looking for!! At this time I am leaning towards the 3.4 tacoma disc to answer my affordable and easily accessible desire.
 
Chop Shop,
Thanks again! You gave me enough of an idea to start spending my time searching that path and it sure appears to be the answer I was looking for!! At this time I am leaning towards the 3.4 tacoma disc to answer my affordable and easily accessible desire.

you know me, Im just here to make friends.:zilla: (ive never used that smiley)

:banana:
 
AA adapter arrived so I am running out of excuses why the 4.3 is not in.....
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Plan of attack.....
  • Get to cleaning my R150 and chain t-case (for now)
  • Go pick up my flywheel
  • Order a tacoma clutch disc (ebay because NAPA wants a million dollars)
  • Order a chevy diaphram pressure plate (ebay as well)
  • Clean the back of the 4.3 and replace rear main
  • Assemble
  • Install (position, motor mounts, move/modify tranny mount)
  • Source a rochester for now until I can scrounge up a manifold and rebuild/modify my quadrapuke.
  • Work on coolant system
  • If the sweet spot doesnt require rear driveline modifications then I will play with it as is for a while but if rear driveline mods are needed I will source an adapter to mount my dual gear drive cases on board.
  • Front driveline is square so not an issue.
Then return to beating it
:meh:
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A
  • Order a tacoma clutch disc (ebay because NAPA wants a million dollars)
:meh:

make sure to get an Aisin or Seco disc (oem stuff).

I have had very bad luck with parts house clutches in the last couple years.

Last week I just removed a 3 month old Rhino brand clutch from a tacoma that looked perfect except for the big ol crack around the center springs.

Also get a Jap throwout bearing too.

(PS, a Quadrajet IS a Rochester) I have a cast iron 4.3 manifold for a 4bbl.
 
Thanks for the info I will listen and do as mentioned! The only way I may scew is if the individual parts get to close to the cost of a CF. I was shocked at the parts house price of a tacoma disc alone. So it scares me even more for OEM.
Rochester - Crud your right what am I thinking of? It's the ugly little tall two barrel.......?
I may be hitting you up for a price on the manifold. As you know it barely wont fit in a flat rate box and they are heavy so shipping scares me a bit!
 
Nevermind I think I answered my own question I think I just didnt realize a quadrajet was also a rochester.
 
Tonight I sold the turbo 350 to 21 spline tcase adapter I picked up from a guy while searching for a 4.3 to R150 adapter. Dont ask he found me and needed money quick as he was headed to alaska and I was happy to make 60 bucks and a spare gear drive tcase even if its a foward shift. Regardless I want to put my 60 bucks towards something yota ish and have spent an hour searching my self stupid as usual. I give up I dont even care at this point if you call me lazy I am totally confused when you throw the r150 into the mix on if i have to convert my forward shift or not here is what I have: I have a R150 with a chain box on it now. I have a 21 spline top shift gear box as the reduction box hooked to my adapter for the doubler. Then I have two forward shift 21 spline complete tcases sitting here. WTF do I need??? I am ?? a twin stick since I am welded in the front and turning sharp is not exactly possible. I am not sure its necessary though as I plan for an E-locker or ARB in the future. I have 60 bucks to blow to put towards the cost of something lessening the blow. Should I just buy the stub shaft to go to the 21 spline case or ??? Honestly I have become stupider tonight after searching (off of this site) and one saying you have to and one saying BS he has and .......

Any help is appreciated.
 
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You need to convert one of your forward shift boxes to top shift. :cheers:

The dual case adapter will only take a top shift as the rear case. You can cut and weld to turn a forward shift into a top shift, but I think Marlin also sells the parts to do so...
 
You need to convert one of your forward shift boxes to top shift. :cheers:

The dual case adapter will only take a top shift as the rear case. You can cut and weld to turn a forward shift into a top shift, but I think Marlin also sells the parts to do so...

A twin stick will help the front turn a little easier, but it won't be a huge difference...
 

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