1980 Beater Build!! (1 Viewer)

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LOL on both! I do normally wd40 it down but pam is a good idea! I normally NEVER EVER get this much mud on it as I hate cleaning it but its a once a year huge event. The picture doesnt show it but there are hundreds of vehicles and over a 1000 people

OK 2ndGen I will pack my bags and head for Pirate..... :D
 
You should have taken it to the local car wash and sprayed all that mud off. I'm sure they would have loved it. :hillbilly:
 
I am sucking fuel down like pepsi on a hot day and my plugs are black even though it runs like a raped ape. I tore the holley 470 cfm truck avenger apart and it has 57s for the primarys and the secondarys both. It also has a 2.5 power valve. I ordered 54s for the primary to start with. It has gotten so bad I finally am starting to drop a plug and develope a miss.....
 
I just picked up some extra rear springs to try and build up the pack in the front of mine. I am looking for 1.5" more lift up front. The rears I have up there right now are stock with two leafs added. Due to the weight of the 4.3 it sags down considerably. I cut one leaf to replace a bent one I had added originally as well as I cut the second leaf from the main leaf to add a full leaf to my pack. I then swapped out one of my short ones for a longer leaf. I really think I added about 175 or so lbs. per side. I have another leaf ready to go in if needed but I really do not want to over do it
 
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So my son and I threw down on the the stock rear springs we pickup up yesterday. We added a full leaf just under the 2nd spring as well as replaced a bent mid pack spring. We then added a middle of the pack spring but removed one of the short overload type springs... It has seemed to settle at about 1.25-1.5" lift and is so much softer!! Yep softer. It is like the pack was sagged to the point of the overloads so to speak where as now it has progressive down.

How abot one of these and one of those oops cut and grind this one oh maybe a touch off of that one.... :D
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One thing I will say is when I did the rear sping swap a year or two ago I saw where everyone was adding a ton of springs and I thought.... nope not me what the heck are they thinking..... Now I see!! I could add one more and be fine and may have to before its over
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So I am lacking on my cv angle so I did some googling and found a thread on 4x4 wire IFS Driveshaft CV Modification for Increased Angle - 4x4Wire.com where they tore apart and ground an ifs cv and gained from 25 to 35 degrees. My other findings are that most ifs are lucky to go 22 degrees. My old square tube is worn to about 27ish but my new stock round tube is no more than 22 if its lucky!! I am not afraid to tackle anything but let me warn you so far it has not been easy.... :mad: I will be lucky if I have saved all of the needle bearings and I destroyed the ujoints in the cv trying to get it apart. Even if or when I pull this mod off I will have spent some coin :rolleyes: But plain and simply I have to do it as my cv binds now and I can throw sparks.... I cant imagine the beating my pinion and tcase output takes when I droop away
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On the spartan locker scenario from diffsonly.com they requested I send it back to Randys Ring and Pinion as apparently diffsonly.com is a dealer for them.... I did so along with a letter explaining the scenario. They treated me above and beyond how they could have.... I had a locker more less in pieces and the warranty talks about abuse voiding the warranty. I explained the simple fact that lets face it I purchased it to use it but at the same time found it failing half way through what is known as the most wicked run around and had to get back to the trailer and that is where the abuse occured. Again they could have hosed me right fully so but instead they stood up and took care of me above and beyond. My hats off to them. They instantly tried to credit me towards an upgraded locker but I stressed that a locker just wasnt for me and my style. Even though it was not in their warranty they asked how they could help and I stated I rather have a spare set of 4.88s on the shelf collecting dust than a locker. BAM 4.88 headed my way with a spare solid collar!! They do think I have a bent housing based off of of the wear patterns in the locker. I am not arguing even though I can not see it by eye my long side is acting wierd. It goes in but is tight.... I picked up another housing and will be cutting and turning the knuckles along with making it bullet proof. I didnt do anything to bend that dang housing... I dont mind when I can puff my chest up and say yep I had that one coming but in this case nothing special. I think it bent right at the ubolt the only 1" spot that isnt gussetted.... The new housing has the full lower gusset as well as what I plan to do.
 
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as for the cv project take my advice and dont try it.... I quit just after the pictures and set it down because a friend needed help. He was doing the 3rz swap and wasnt going to be done in time for the event so we spent an all nighter helping get his toyota going to the point that we only got 1.5 hours of sleep before getting up to drive the 2 hours to mudfest...... In the meantime of getting back to it I lost 1 needle bearing in the center of the cv making the whole thing more less junk due to the price to replace..... And to think the friend complained about us being tired and building his back driveline out of round.... hmmm hope he reads this and hates me so much he never aks for help in the future
 
Ok I apolagize as I have been so tied up in preparing for 2012 top truck challenge champions cup that I havent even been on here in a month or two.... But now I need to pull it together as I have a rock climb coming asap!! I want to finish my doubler.... I picked up the 23 spline input a while back and need to get the adapter to the R150 and whatever else i need. If anyone has one or knows of one please send me in the right direction!!

EDIT: Also for those who are curious we drew last run in the tank trap and it was brutal.... We were in a great spot to fight for the win and a solid second as we hit the starting line but it was dug out brutally.... We ended up finishing 7th out of 18 after two roll overs.
 
So I had a big local event this weekend and to my suprise was stuck in the extreme class because they decided to go 35-38.5 and 38.6 and bigger so yep my 39.5s were against 54s. But I managed to pull off a second place run but jumped my rear end off the finish line probably close to 3 feet in the air. I couldnt ride it out as I had to stop in the box to make my time stop. It sat down what seemed to be amazingly soft and I went and parked it. I decided to run over to the concessions stand and when I took off my rear tire passed me.... lol sheared all the factory wheel studs! :rolleyes:
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attended the local rock crawl. placed 4th out of 14 in my class. I had my 5 year old son with me and he was getting tossed around like a rag doll in his car seat so I had to slow down/hold him. Still went good. I since have modified my saginaw pump a little to up the pressure. I also ordered the 2 23 spline output shafts and the last adapter to mate the gear cases to the r150. I can now get my doublers in and finish my drivelines right.

Here is a picture of the good all spline factory 21 which isnt very common compared to the more common 21 spline.
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Here is a pic of the 21 vs the 23
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So elk season is about to start so as usual all yota progress will stop dead in its tracks! However i hoped to go out with a bang.... my entire life wheeling with yotas 60% of not making it has been a result of hanging up on the crossmember. I always wanted to try and do something about that which is part of the reason I mounted my engine as high as I had in anticipation. Well it is going to be a ton of work but here goes:

Cut the floor out as well as widened the tunnel...
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pic of the tranny and doublers jacked up....
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New cross member mount fabbed.....
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Will be completely flat with the exception of about a 7" wide 1.5 deep angled hump for the front out put drop. Should be insane

110 bucks just for the 1/4" - 2.5 x 3' 8" skid plate as well as the 14x16" piece of 3/8s for the cross member
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also this forced me to put the radiator in the rear as it rolled the motor into the radiator as well as I am removing the factory gas tank and doing something different to allow the water lines through. I like this as it will allow my new warn 9000 to go inside the engine compartement a bit making my approach angle insane
 
so here is the crossmember mount that will be welded to the pan to then be welded to the crossmember plate shown above. This design will stiffen my pan a little and more importantly be strong yet leave room for muffler and coolant lines to run through.
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Here is the only drop it will have I plan to sink about .5" more inches out of it but it will have every side angled I could have used a round pipe cap so to speak but this will look great.
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Skide plate was finished a while back.... Exhaust all got redone to clear the skid better. 1.5" Water lines got bent and ran through the cab yep too much crap under yota without a body lift and having the flat belly pan.

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after a ton of fabbing and hacking I was able to get a pair of honda accord seats to fit. Driver side is adjustable still but passenger side is bolted solid due to my tcase tunnel.
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Mounted the winch box on the fire wall out of the way and high enough to avoid most water. A winch controller switch will be mounted in the cab
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Found a little cooler that fabbed perfectly to fit in the corner. I hope this will help drop the temps on my steering fluid a bit.
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