1979 FJ40 2UZ Build (2 Viewers)

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How is it driving these days?
It’s driving well. It’s surprisingly reliable for a home brew motor swap, and now I’m just working out the little rattles that are normal for a 40.

Things for 2024
-install part time spool in the transfer case
-finish rear tire carrier or buy one from @lcwizard before he closes shop
-reseal the hardtop
-lower the rear end an 1”
-install rear winch
 
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How hot is it getting with the Volvo setup? I am doing similar on my Vera build.
 
How hot is it getting with the Volvo setup? I am doing similar on my Vera build.
It’s steady at 195. I was running 37s for a bit and on a 100+ day it spiked to 205 when I was merging onto the highway. I fixed some airflow issues with the shroud and also went back down to 33s since then.

I’m going to change the thermostat since I believe the operating temp should be more around 188. We’ll see.

Smaller tires (less load on the engine), better airflow, and new thermostat should prevent it from spiking again. If it does, I’ll work on fitting a larger radiator in there.
 
It’s steady at 195. I was running 37s for a bit and on a 100+ day it spiked to 205 when I was merging onto the highway. I fixed some airflow issues with the shroud and also went back down to 33s since then.

I’m going to change the thermostat since I believe the operating temp should be more around 188. We’ll see.

Smaller tires (less load on the engine), better airflow, and new thermostat should prevent it from spiking again. If it does, I’ll work on fitting a larger radiator in there.
Was that freeway onramp uphill? Or just flat? Do you feel like the temp would have continued to climb had you not let off?

I don't believe changing the thermostat will help. Once its open, its open. It will begin to open sooner, and be fully open sooner. But, if you change the temp of the thermostat, it will really only lower the temp of the coolant if there is adequate airflow over the radiator and its able to. It doesn't matter if you have a 170 or 180 degree thermostat if your coolant is at 210 degrees. They would both be fully open at that point.
 
Was that freeway onramp uphill? Or just flat? Do you feel like the temp would have continued to climb had you not let off?

I don't believe changing the thermostat will help. Once its open, its open. It will begin to open sooner, and be fully open sooner. But, if you change the temp of the thermostat, it will really only lower the temp of the coolant if there is adequate airflow over the radiator and its able to. It doesn't matter if you have a 170 or 180 degree thermostat if your coolant is at 210 degrees. They would both be fully open at that point.

Good point on the thermostat. I stared at it tonight and didn’t want to start it because I would need to remove the cooling fan to gain access.

The onramp was uphill. Not sure if the temp would have continued going up or not. Honestly I think it had more to do with the blocked airflow in the radiator which I’ve resolved now.
 
I had a great day yesterday with the 40. @UZJ40 it looks like I fixed the cooling issue with some more vents cut into the side of the fan shroud. I drove about 230 miles yesterday to and from an off road park and cruised at 188-199 degrees. At idle it held at 192.

My buddy grenaded his cv shaft and transfer case on his 100 series. I had to pull him about 4-5 miles through the off road park with my 40. Other than getting whiplashed a few times when he caught on a rock the 40 did great!

This 1st gen Toyota had to pull him through a section that I couldn’t get up and I had to take a 15 min bypass that the 100 wouldn’t fit through while being towed.

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Oh and this is the moment he broke his CV, transfer and almost rolled the 100 series.

 
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