Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (6 Viewers)

[dmaddox]

Hazard switch. Normal course of action might be to find another or buy one. However a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry open the tabs and wiring harness revealed what I'd hoped to be an easy fix:

Quite a bit of dirt and grime fell out - and comparing the contacts....I saw exactly why GO and GR were not passing 12V. (Which if you are rebuilding one, I made this diagram):

If you have the switch in your hand, removed from the truck and look in the end of the plug:

1. With the switch pushed in (OFF) pins 2 and 3 will have continuity with each other and none else. (this allows current to flow through your normal turn signals)
2. With the switch pulled out (ON) pins 4, 5 and 6 will have continuity with each other and pins 2 and 3 are interrupted with a new 1 to 2 connection, overriding your turn signal switch and sends voltage to each side turn signal.)

My pins 2 and 3 failed. You an see the build up on both sides.

Q-tip and Brasso:

Cleaned with rubbing alcohol:

Same thing for the other side. Then, lubricated with dielectric grease (Super Lube is dielectric)

Reassembled:

Test:

 

[Green Bean]

Great job. Few things are as satisfying as diagnosing and fixing a problem without expending $.

 

[dmaddox]

Thanks @Green Bean ! Very satisfying for sure. Now, onto the headlight switch.

Problem: 1st pull on the headlight switch, only headlights come on. 2nd pull, All lights. Seems the headlights and parking light wires are swapped somewhere.

With the defrost tube, it is rather annoying digging around in there working on the light switch. Grrrrr. But....that is next on the list.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Hazard switch. Normal course of action might be to find another or buy one. However a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry open the tabs and wiring harness revealed what I'd hoped to be an easy fix:

View attachment 3436280

Quite a bit of dirt and grime fell out - and comparing the contacts....I saw exactly why GO and GR were not passing 12V. (Which if you are rebuilding one, I made this diagram):

If you have the switch in your hand, removed from the truck and look in the end of the plug:

View attachment 3436313

1. With the switch pushed in (OFF) pins 2 and 3 will have continuity with each other and none else. (this allows current to flow through your normal turn signals)
2. With the switch pulled out (ON) pins 4, 5 and 6 will have continuity with each other and none else. (this interrupts pins 2 and 3, overriding your turn signal switch and sends voltage to each side turn signal.)

View attachment 3436288

My pins 2 and 3 failed. You an see the build up on both sides.

View attachment 3436282

View attachment 3436281

Q-tip and Brasso:

View attachment 3436283

Cleaned with rubbing alcohol:

View attachment 3436284

Same thing for the other side. Then, lubricated with dielectric grease (Super Lube is dielectric)

View attachment 3436285

Reassembled:

View attachment 3436286

View attachment 3436287

Test:

Just one small addition to what you stated in case someone is reading this later and troubleshooting. In the on position, pins 1 and 2 are connected as well. This is what sends the power to the flasher and what was causing your issue (GO and GW open and not making a connection). Nice fix!

 

[dmaddox]

Yes, thank you for clarification. So the 2 to 3 connection in closed moves to 1 to 2 when open. I'll update my post above. Thanks @MOTOV8R

 

[dmaddox]

Looking for links/ideas/solutions on a muffler that looks like the original round cylinder. I'm having a hard time finding something that looks OEM.

Will continue to google around to see what I can find.

 

[Polecat]

Looking for links/ideas/solutions on a muffler that looks like the original round cylinder. I'm having a hard time finding something that looks OEM.

Will continue to google around to see what I can find.

@fj40ingkc - didn’t you find something close to OEM for one of your 40s?

 

[greenEFSI]

Something like this? Muffler for 1976 FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/muffler-for-1976-fj40.1208554/post-13080096

 

[fj40ingkc]

@fj40ingkc - didn’t you find something close to OEM for one of your 40s?

Yes I found an OEM one, last one that seems to be available, and then I bought a few mufflers trying to match the size and dimenstions. One of them seems to be just about correct and can be welded to tubing designed to match OEM route. It’s for the muffler that goes in rear behind rear axle.

 

[dmaddox]

I can't find any 17430-61120 listed anywhere. Seems to be discontinued. @fj40ingkc which muffler did you find to be closest to the OEM dimensions?

I may try to hunt for a good original, wont be easy. I fear even if I do find something it'll be pretty beat up.

 

[OlYellr]

I can't find any 17430-61120 listed anywhere.

Here?

17430-61120 Genuine Toyota Exhaust Tail Pipe Assembly - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~pipe~assy~exhaust~tail~17430-61120.html

 

[dmaddox]

I can give them a try, but notoriously they show stuff in stock that, in fact, isn't. Will give them a shot. Thank's @OlYellr

 

[dmaddox]

Yikes. 500$ shipping? Sheesh.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Get a stock 60 series cat back pipe with muffler. Cut and weld to yours. It's the same muffler and they are still available

 

[dmaddox]

Excellent idea - but again, looks discontinued. Part 17430-61170. (FJ60 exhaust, rear)...unless it is 17405-61240 - which is available. (FJ62)

 

[Andrew S]

Dallas, this deal should help you out on shipping if you track down a muffler part number:

Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store Serra Toyota of Decatur

25% off orders between September 25-29, and free shipping on orders over $75. They emailed me that link yesterday.
I've ordered quite a bit from Serra Toyota in the past.

Andrew

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Excellent idea - but again, looks discontinued. Part 17430-61170. (FJ60 exhaust, rear)...unless it is 17405-61240 - which is available. (FJ62)

Shoot. I just got one from my local dealer not long ago.

 

[fj40ingkc]

I ordered this one: AP Exhaust® - MSL Maximum Aluminized Steel Round Direct Fit Exhaust Muffler with Inlet / Outlet Neck - https://www.carid.com/ap-exhaust-technologies/msl-maximum-aluminized-steel-round-direct-fit-exhaust-muffler-mpn-700152.html?singleid=404853465&utm_source=email&utm_medium=order&utm_campaign=order_tracking_number

 

[dmaddox]

@fj40ingkc if time permits, I'd love to hear your opinion when you get it. Tough to beat that price. Any photos or info would be apprecaited!

Thanks!

 

[fj40ingkc]

I’ve had it a year now, it looks correct for the size and shape. Would need to bend the other tubes to match/buy fittings that are correct to bolt components together. I’m debating going stainless will update as I move forward