bloc
SILVER Star
Hello all,
So, as promised, I'm getting a thread started detailing my ongoing pump-swap. I'm close to getting finished and have a few pics to highlight things. Be warned though, I'm not quite done with this.
The vehicle was originally a 1994 4runner, and before this swap it had a 1KZ-TE engine, R151F 5spd transmission, and an EVO 8 front mount intercooler.
1KZ-TEs installed in surfs (KZN130s specifically) used the Denso ECDV3 electronic injection pump.
Pros: dynamic timing. (that's it)
Cons: almost zero diagnostic capability, obscure technology that most pump shops in the states refuse to mess with, $1k chip required for significant power increases, no elegant way to trick the ECU into knowing there is a FMIC and make the appropriate fuel and timing adjustments.
The pump is based on a bosch VE pump case, using a 12mm plunger and what is apparently a pretty mild cam-plate. From the factory the injectors are calibrated for 150kpa
4M40 is a 2.8 liter mitsubishi turbodiesel engine, with a factory intercooler. It is indirect injected, also with 150kpa opening pressure. It uses a Zexel mechanical injection pump, with boost compensator.
Pros:TONS of info available on pump mods & troubleshooting, capable of making repairs/adjustments with screwdriver/wrench, factory boost curve set up for intercooling (not sure how significant this change is)
Cons: slight machining (if it can really be called that) on the pump case required, other slight changes to engine config required, throttle lever needs to be pulled, as opposed to pushed on 1KZ-T mechanical pump (so parts can't be directly interchanged)
This Zexel pump is a nearly direct knock off of the Bosch VE rotary pump. About the only difference is the casting logo in the case, and the fact that the throttle lever pulls instead of push. It uses an 11mm plunger, which on the surface sounds like it won't make as much power, but when you look at guys in Oz swapping these onto 1KZ-T engines to make more power... it's all in the cam-plate (I hope). Either way, the 4M40 has less displacement, but nearly identical hp and torque figures to the 1KZ-T, so I'm not worried about the 1mm less diameter on the plunger.
Anyway.. I ordered my 4M40 pump from ebay UK. Search for "Pajero pump", and look specifically for pumps that came on 2.8liter Pajeros. The 2.5 was an older chassis and I don't know if they will fit. I didn't want to spend $1k, yet I also didn't want to get the cheapest thing I could find. So I ordered a relatively clean looking pump for about $250, with about $50 in shipping. I got the thing home and went to the local Bosch shop to get a seal kit. Front seal and complete oring kit: $20, in stock. If I had asked for the same for my 1KZ-TE they would have given me a blank stare.
I opened the pump up to check internal condition, and it was nearly flawless. The cam-plate and rollers were perfect. The only sign of usage was the slight marks on the inner pump case from the timing ring rocking back and forth. For a GREAT writeup on rebuilding a bosch VE pump, go here: Bosch diesel injection pump rebuild
Then I set about removing the factory Denso pump. I had heard horror stories about getting these things off. Guys have had to remove the radiator, A/C condenser, install a puller, heat the gear, then hammer the crap out of the shaft (ramming the timing gear into the back of the housing) to get it dislodged. 15+ years of a tapered shaft with thermal cycling.. yeah. I decided to over build my puller. The first pic is of my puller installed. You may notice a large ball bearing between the thrust bolt and the pump shaft. This is intended to fit into a detent on the end of the shaft and keep from tearing it up with all of the force. Toyota's puller only calls for 2 tension bolts, I went with 4, as some people have said it seems like with only 2 the threads were going to pull out.
Second pic shows it from a different angle.
It took what seems like a lot of torque, but the shaft popped out without any hammering or heat. And since I kept the puller low-profile I didn't even have to remove the radiator.
Third pic is Denso pump, for reference.
So, as promised, I'm getting a thread started detailing my ongoing pump-swap. I'm close to getting finished and have a few pics to highlight things. Be warned though, I'm not quite done with this.
The vehicle was originally a 1994 4runner, and before this swap it had a 1KZ-TE engine, R151F 5spd transmission, and an EVO 8 front mount intercooler.
1KZ-TEs installed in surfs (KZN130s specifically) used the Denso ECDV3 electronic injection pump.
Pros: dynamic timing. (that's it)
Cons: almost zero diagnostic capability, obscure technology that most pump shops in the states refuse to mess with, $1k chip required for significant power increases, no elegant way to trick the ECU into knowing there is a FMIC and make the appropriate fuel and timing adjustments.
The pump is based on a bosch VE pump case, using a 12mm plunger and what is apparently a pretty mild cam-plate. From the factory the injectors are calibrated for 150kpa
4M40 is a 2.8 liter mitsubishi turbodiesel engine, with a factory intercooler. It is indirect injected, also with 150kpa opening pressure. It uses a Zexel mechanical injection pump, with boost compensator.
Pros:TONS of info available on pump mods & troubleshooting, capable of making repairs/adjustments with screwdriver/wrench, factory boost curve set up for intercooling (not sure how significant this change is)
Cons: slight machining (if it can really be called that) on the pump case required, other slight changes to engine config required, throttle lever needs to be pulled, as opposed to pushed on 1KZ-T mechanical pump (so parts can't be directly interchanged)
This Zexel pump is a nearly direct knock off of the Bosch VE rotary pump. About the only difference is the casting logo in the case, and the fact that the throttle lever pulls instead of push. It uses an 11mm plunger, which on the surface sounds like it won't make as much power, but when you look at guys in Oz swapping these onto 1KZ-T engines to make more power... it's all in the cam-plate (I hope). Either way, the 4M40 has less displacement, but nearly identical hp and torque figures to the 1KZ-T, so I'm not worried about the 1mm less diameter on the plunger.
Anyway.. I ordered my 4M40 pump from ebay UK. Search for "Pajero pump", and look specifically for pumps that came on 2.8liter Pajeros. The 2.5 was an older chassis and I don't know if they will fit. I didn't want to spend $1k, yet I also didn't want to get the cheapest thing I could find. So I ordered a relatively clean looking pump for about $250, with about $50 in shipping. I got the thing home and went to the local Bosch shop to get a seal kit. Front seal and complete oring kit: $20, in stock. If I had asked for the same for my 1KZ-TE they would have given me a blank stare.
I opened the pump up to check internal condition, and it was nearly flawless. The cam-plate and rollers were perfect. The only sign of usage was the slight marks on the inner pump case from the timing ring rocking back and forth. For a GREAT writeup on rebuilding a bosch VE pump, go here: Bosch diesel injection pump rebuild
Then I set about removing the factory Denso pump. I had heard horror stories about getting these things off. Guys have had to remove the radiator, A/C condenser, install a puller, heat the gear, then hammer the crap out of the shaft (ramming the timing gear into the back of the housing) to get it dislodged. 15+ years of a tapered shaft with thermal cycling.. yeah. I decided to over build my puller. The first pic is of my puller installed. You may notice a large ball bearing between the thrust bolt and the pump shaft. This is intended to fit into a detent on the end of the shaft and keep from tearing it up with all of the force. Toyota's puller only calls for 2 tension bolts, I went with 4, as some people have said it seems like with only 2 the threads were going to pull out.
Second pic shows it from a different angle.
It took what seems like a lot of torque, but the shaft popped out without any hammering or heat. And since I kept the puller low-profile I didn't even have to remove the radiator.
Third pic is Denso pump, for reference.