Spent Saturday beating my cranium soft on the arms of the lift.
I was not happy with the brakes performance before I took it to the upholster so plan was to re-bleed the brakes. The power bleeder worked much better this time and after getting through each of the calipers and not seeing any real problems it was on to that stupid valve. At first is was same as the calipers then all at once it started blowing air like I had fed it a meal at Chipotle. The level in the power bleeder dropped a full inch in 3 seconds. After it ran clear I figured I'd make one more round of bleeding...just in case. A gallon and a half of fluid later There was nothing more to be pushed out of the system. I am still not real happy with the performance of the brakes but perhaps I should not expect them to work like my Tundra or any other truck I have owned since my '65 Ford.
I figured while I had it up in the air I would do the motor/trans mounts...should be a snap...be done in an hour...right!!!???
Braced the transfercase, removed the cross brace, bada-bing, bada-boom easypeasy.
Passenger side mount, lower nut off...snap...upper nut off..slow snap. Drivers side...lower nut off...snap...Upper nut...wholy crap!!!!! 30 minutes to find the right wrench and the right angle to get to it and once on it it was frozen solid. After some extension/swivel origami the 1/2" impact finally broke it free.
At this point I figured it should be easy, screw jack under the crank pulley, raise the motor about a inch or so, slide them out, new ones in...no problem. Jack in place, twist and twist and then a POP!!!! Next was a shower of fluid that was really stanky...the low pressure return line on the power steering res snapped in half. After 22 years of AZ heat there was no forgiveness left in it. Learned 2 things...first, if you want to lift the motor for mount replacement, pull the three 12mm bolts that secure the res to the motor so they can move separately. Second, who ever filled the PS system last use the wrong fluid and it was burnt and foul.
After a couple parts run I got the both the low pressure lines to the res replaced and then had to flush the entire PS system so it could be filled with the ATF as specified. Guess I will need to add all new PS lines to my "To Do" list.
Never got around to pulling the VAFM to meter it though I am pretty certain it is the cause of my intake air temp code so I need to find a good working replacement that ISN'T $700 from Mr. T.
Considering starting the wheel painting today but then again...paint fumes and the soft spots on my skull may say this is a rest day
I was not happy with the brakes performance before I took it to the upholster so plan was to re-bleed the brakes. The power bleeder worked much better this time and after getting through each of the calipers and not seeing any real problems it was on to that stupid valve. At first is was same as the calipers then all at once it started blowing air like I had fed it a meal at Chipotle. The level in the power bleeder dropped a full inch in 3 seconds. After it ran clear I figured I'd make one more round of bleeding...just in case. A gallon and a half of fluid later There was nothing more to be pushed out of the system. I am still not real happy with the performance of the brakes but perhaps I should not expect them to work like my Tundra or any other truck I have owned since my '65 Ford.
I figured while I had it up in the air I would do the motor/trans mounts...should be a snap...be done in an hour...right!!!???
Braced the transfercase, removed the cross brace, bada-bing, bada-boom easypeasy.
Passenger side mount, lower nut off...snap...upper nut off..slow snap. Drivers side...lower nut off...snap...Upper nut...wholy crap!!!!! 30 minutes to find the right wrench and the right angle to get to it and once on it it was frozen solid. After some extension/swivel origami the 1/2" impact finally broke it free.
At this point I figured it should be easy, screw jack under the crank pulley, raise the motor about a inch or so, slide them out, new ones in...no problem. Jack in place, twist and twist and then a POP!!!! Next was a shower of fluid that was really stanky...the low pressure return line on the power steering res snapped in half. After 22 years of AZ heat there was no forgiveness left in it. Learned 2 things...first, if you want to lift the motor for mount replacement, pull the three 12mm bolts that secure the res to the motor so they can move separately. Second, who ever filled the PS system last use the wrong fluid and it was burnt and foul.
After a couple parts run I got the both the low pressure lines to the res replaced and then had to flush the entire PS system so it could be filled with the ATF as specified. Guess I will need to add all new PS lines to my "To Do" list.
Never got around to pulling the VAFM to meter it though I am pretty certain it is the cause of my intake air temp code so I need to find a good working replacement that ISN'T $700 from Mr. T.
Considering starting the wheel painting today but then again...paint fumes and the soft spots on my skull may say this is a rest day