Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD

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Today, Zeke and I traveled to Big Rock Tennessee, where we helped clean up a house that blew about 150 yards across the road. Got to talk to the woman who rode that house inside a closet and landed without harm. Tornadoes are freaky weird.

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That "easy" job of installing valve seals has turned into quite the ordeal.

First, I lost one of the valve cover gaskets while removing the valve cover. They all fell off when I removed it, and so far I've only found three out of four.

Second, I've managed to destroy 3 of the valve seals trying to install them, and have managed to install none successfully.

Third, I've managed to break all the wires to the alternator, and I "think" I might've got them reconnected correctly.

Fourth, when I hooked up the air source to the first cylinder, the motor turned over just enough to feed the fuel line and vacuum line into the fan.

What a fricken day.

Maybe tomorrow will work out better.
 
Friends don't let friends buy cheap valve seals.

The rubber groove to seal body fit is pathetic, and installing these suck. Found them at JT Outfitters for $28.95 plus tax, shipping and handling.

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If you look closely, you'll see that the old OEM seal rubber has a significantly deeper groove, which helps prevent seal separation.
 
ToyotaPartsDeal is a strange critter. Both of those parts have the same description and price, yet 90913-02030 shows a plain o-ring. No idea where you would put that in a valve stem seal arrangement.

I'm going to order the 90913-02033, since the picture looks right.

Also, they won't allow you to ask a question unless you have a valid, 17 digit VIN. As you all know, we don't have 17 digit VINs in the pig pen.
 
Update on the valve seals:

McGeorge Toyota has the 90913-02033 valve seals, and have shipped them out today. I look forward to discovering what I actually get.

One of the things I've learned from this part of the project is the moving goal posts that are Toyota Parts.

The valve seals that automatically come with the cheap Fel-Pro engine seal kit are the one piece rubber kind that belong on the 1F engine. Those won't work on a 2F, because the top of the valve guide isn't shaped correctly and the seal just rides up and down on the valve stem instead of staying stuck to the valve guide.

The first version of the 2F valve seal is PN 90913-02030. These were replaced by PN 90913-02033 around 10/78. Sometime around 1984, the valve seal part became PN 90913-02048. I guess it's possible that other part number valve seals exist that would also work.

I have no clue as to the interchangeability of the three valve seal part numbers. I wish I had a good idea of how they differ, and why you'd want one over the other.
 
This really pains me to read about your parts quest because back in the early 90s I threw away a pile of parts that contained seals, guides, etc. I sold off my '76 40 and 55 thinking I'd never get back to them. :bang:
Yeah, I pulled off 10 good valve seals because 2 were bad. Unfortunately, I destroyed them in the process. If I knew then what I know now, I would've left them on and replaced the two bad ones.
 
Aaaand, on the way out of town today, Zeke started running rough whenever I'd try to give him power.

Runs good on start up, no unusual sounds, idles well, no clouds of smoke; tailpipe smells good.

Only thing I can think of is that I refueled immediately prior to the issue; will pull the fuel filter and see if that helps.
 
Aaaand, on the way out of town today, Zeke started running rough whenever I'd try to give him power.

Runs good on start up, no unusual sounds, idles well, no clouds of smoke; tailpipe smells good.

Only thing I can think of is that I refueled immediately prior to the issue; will pull the fuel filter and see if that helps.
Try some gas line antifreeze?
 

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