Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (1 Viewer)

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Thanks, I am going to add to your post again.(now up to number 13)
I have sent a message to the help desk asking what I am doing wrong as I have taken some photos of the cruiser from front on for uploading.

I was reading about your carburetor issues with the desmogged 3f and I was wondering what sort of efficiency gain you will get.

I am using mine as a daily driver so mainly short trips, traffic and lots of stop start driving.
This is in metric as I don't know the u.s gallon mile conversions.
I filled up recently and measured the use over about a week and a half.
I travelled 473km to the tank
And filled up when it got to below quarter on the gauge.
I used 62.74 litres to refill.
Costing $1.32 per litre
So about $82.80
I am getting by my calculation 13.26 liters per 100km for round town use.
It's seems a bit heavier compared to others on here.

Do you know the 3f consumption as I have nothing to compare to.
Thanks
alex
 
Zero idea... mines a 60 and here in CT, USA gasoline is $2.39gal right now. I might get 13mpg. Might.
@OSS anychance you can answer Alexs' question above about 3f fuel?
 
No wonder there are many of these vehicles in the middle east...and so much oil to be found there

I think it all comes down to the driving and what your accessories are... extra weight because of wheels/tires/roof rack/front rear bumper etc et etc

Back to doing electrical work~~~:banana:
 
FordPrefect said:
I am getting by my calculation 13.26 liters per 100km for round town use.
Click to expand...

That's excellent fuel consumption for a gasoline powered land cruiser. Actually, I've never heard of anyone ever getting that kind of efficiency in "around town" driving.

Most people in the USA driving 2Fs are getting around 12 mpg max (19.6L/100KM) around town. Often less.
image.jpeg
 
Best I've ever done was between 16-17 mpg on the highway. Driving around 65 mph and using the AC very conservatively.
 
I have figured out how you can see a picture of our old 61.
If you google "vintage caravan Proboards " and using the search bar across the top put in "ford prefect" if this works
It's a picture of the 61 towing our old van. The sixth photo down.

If that doesn't work please look at the member posts for Don Ricardo and I am on page 2 (June 18 2017) of his posts.
This was taken At Windang beach caravan park inNSW just before Christmas last year.
It's a really beautiful spot That takes me about 2.5 hours from Sydney heading south.
Towing at about 100km per hour.
If you want to google the Windang beach images it is really really nice.

Sorry for the late reply as I am also trying to cook hamburgers for dinner.
Please let me know if this works.
regards
alex
 
Hey Alex, often I'm w/ my 4 yr old (single mom)... googling ect isn't the easiest these days w/ him. If I remember I'll luk but most often when he naps (if he does) I tend to zone out.
Later today he's off w/ his dad for 10 days. I'm stressing more than I want to admit. The most I've ever not seen him and vice versa is about 4/5 days.
It's good and bad. I didn't say no to his dad but knew it wouldn't be easy either. I know he'll be busy and distracted... it's prob more my issue anyway.
You've yet to find that upload button huh? Strange.
And your cooking dinner as we are just getting up. How cool is that.
 
Glad we mostly have 3b diesels up here in canada. Thats what you get for not bombing japan.
 
Pulled everything off w/ truck running. Only once I pulled the line off the carb for the vacuum advance did she stall out.
Did another adjustment. And just for the hell of it took a stupid selfie while laying across the engine on a yoga mat.

Cranked the alt nut to see into the spark plug holes at the valves and the pistons. Valves not too bad looking but the piston surfaces are covered in easily an 1/8" of grim. Ran it w/o the cover and watched everything move. Push rods don't all spin freely.
And she's still struggling off choke. Simply not doing it.
Added the timing light and even at tdc and the bb my gut is telling me I'm off by a tooth because the diz bolt is not centered at all in the gap on the housing. Pulled the diz cap while at TDC on #6 and someone confirmed it looked right. I've got some more reading to do....

IMG_6357.JPG


IMG_6384.JPG
 
Looks like you are being eaten by the FJ....
that top end looks clean ^_^


needs moar spark plugs~~

Good work there~~
 
When I was getting ready to adjust the valves on my '84 FJ60 on Thursday, I made a note of where the #1 plug wire on the distributor cap was relative to a bolt on the side of the cylinder head (in your photo it's the bolt just above the bend on the blue vacuum hose, just to the rear of plug #4). It was pointing slightly to the rear of the bolt centerline. In your photo, it would also be aligned directly with pushrod #8. I then checked the pointer relative to the line on the flywheel, and from what my old eyes could tell, it was pretty much lined up. I did the same with #6 after adjusting the first set of valves. I'm very sure my distributor is installed in the correct orientation - I've owned the vehicle since new and I know the distributor has never been removed.

It looks to me, but don't take my word for it, like your rotor is pointing a little forward of where mine was at TDC. Could it be one tooth off? I don't know. Maybe someone who knows a lot more than I do will chime in also.
 
When the distributor is installed correctly, when set at 7° BTDC, (the round ball on the flywheel) the lock bolt for the distributor will be pretty much centered in the distributor curved slot. Like in the picture below.

image.jpeg

If you're suspicious that maybe you're a tooth off, you don't need to pull the dissy to find out.

Just move all the spark plug wires on the distributor cap up to the next terminal number - or back to the previous number depending on if you think it's too advanced or too retarded.

Example: move spark plug #1 wire on the cap to terminal #2, and wire #2 to #3 etc. Then -try- to start the engine.

If it runs like Royal Crap or not at all, move all the wires back two terminals (1 to 6, 6 to 5 etc) and try that.

If you find that you are a tooth off, it's best to pull the dissy & try stabbing it again. It will get too confusing if your spark wires don't match up with the cap.
 
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@OSS yes that's exactly why I think I'm off. The bolt is at the top most of the gap for TDC (making it crazy retarded) which I knew after seeing it again for the second timing trying to time it that I was right.
Thanks.
Funny too, I believe I read your exact words from '07 in a thread on timing. :)
One of these friggen days....
 
I'm sure you have the FSMs for your rig and there is a good pic of where the dizzy should be with #1 at TDC. I just went through this with a fellow mudders 60. It took a couple stabs, but we finally got it right. It is really easy to be off a tooth:bang:. Good luck:)
 
Ok so manifolds are off AGAIN and I was most definetly leaking from the exhaust horn by the firewall. Lots of heat burns on the inner surface of the gasket.
I can see into the manifold ports on the head as well. Intake valves coated in grime, exhaust dry as fossilized bones.
Are my oil seals leaking? Is it just from sitting in the driveway running and adjusting settings? I'm looking at the cut away picture of the block showing how oil moves thru the system... but I don't quite understand how oil goes from the valve stem area to coat the backside of the valves out through the ports on the side of the block?
And I most definetly have warpage in both diagonals between the white dots I made on the top edge. I do have a remflex handy but I'm feeling like big decisions are in store.
I clean it, slap the remflex on and button her up and cross my fingers or I do it the right way...

IMG_6411.JPG


IMG_6412.JPG


IMG_6423.JPG


IMG_6426.JPG
 
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