Wiring TRD elockers with an FZJ80 elocker ECU and switch

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I'm going to use the light in the locker switch its self. I already added the female pin connectors to light it up. And if/when I SAS/E-lock the front the stock switch has a one in two out feature so I can power the switch for the front off of that, so it's like the 80 switch, rear, rear-front, but no front only.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

This seems like a good place to dump all the links I've been amassing through this....

Full write ups:

Toyota Electric Locker

E-locker

Retrofit Electric Locker

Toyota Electric Locker

Retrofitting a Factory Toyota Elocker

Toyota 4Runner SR5 Locker Install

87 Toyota Electric Locking differential install page


Wiring stuff:

Using a double pole double throw switch to run Locker

http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Writeup%20Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf

Picasa Web Albums - Jerod - Pictures

http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/locker_wiring.jpg

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Wiring Diagrams/Overall Wiring Diagram.pdf Page 38 and 42 of the PDF

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Wiring_Manual/03tacoma/systemci/039rdl.pdf

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/elec_locker_wiring.gif

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Jerod,

I answered your PM but have relooked at the wiring diagram. I would wire it the way that I have marked up the diagram. Red means delete btw.

Shout if you have any further questions.

One word of caution: you will not have anything preventing you from locking that rear axle at any speed. That's one reason that I liked the FZJ80 switch. You have to push and turn and I thought that was less accident prone than a push button or a toggle.

My 100 series has a single rear locker and it has the same dial-type switch (same size and everything) but with only two positions instead of three. I assume, as you said the light is built into the switch, that you are using a push button switch?? I'm not familiar with the later Tacoma, 4Runner switches.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Thanks Greg, that's exactly what I had in mind, and the only thing the number 1 connection makes sense for is the flashing light... I think we're right!

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I'm not an electrical engineer, but pin no. 1 on the locker ECU does go the only thing I can imagine being a flasher on the whole circuit board. The "flasher" has 3 connections, one to ground, one to the no. 1 pin via a resistor, and the 3rd is connected to the small 20 pin mother board..... Hopefully this week I can find the harness bundle and give this a test run. Still hoping to regear the locker though, so the actual install will have to wait...

*********Confirmed, the pin no. 1 does operate the flashing light mode by supplying intermittent ground to the dash light.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

For those installing an E-locker with only the locker and the harness, here's all you'll need to wire it up.

Picasa Web Albums - Jerod - Pictures

 

[Calmecija]

WarDamnEagle,I installed the elocker with 4wd ecu as you did it, but i have problem with the elocker operation. My situation: my car is a landruiser model FZJ71, it has from the assembler the completly wire for the 4wd ECU and wire for the original switch. When I connect the 4wd ecu to the wire, and the switch and the elocker to the wire, the actuator does not operate in the moment when in put the switch in RR position (rear locker activated). The 4wd ECU and the switch are new. I tested the power in the ECU an it is ok, the power coming from the switch to the ecu is ok, but the ecu do not send power to the actuator wire. the thing is when I put the switch to RR position, the indicator light for locking begin to blink in the combination meter. I do not proved the 4wd restiriction and the speed sensor. it iss important to highlight that my car does not comes withthe elocker from the assembler. What could been happening? in my case or what i´m doing wrong?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Do you have a locking center differential (CDL)? If so then that will have to be locked before the rear locker will work. If you don't have a CDL then you will need to do what I did and connect it to ground. As you can see in post #3, it is ECU pin 15.

 

[theferg]

The blinking light on the dash means that the lock switch sensor on the elocker motor at the diff is not getting a closed loop signal. In other words, the elocker actuator is sending a signal that it is trying to lock, but not able to lock locking. (Sort of....really it means the lock ecu is not receiving a lock signal from the lock sensor switch on the elocker motor.)

As mentioned above, this could be caused by the central diff located in the tcase not being locked (btw if you don't have a "center diff lock" specific switch, you must put the tcase in LOW in order to lock the center) but could also be caused by a handful of other things... A few of those common reasons are that the lock teeth are not lining up correctly; another is that the lock fork is seized; another is that the harness connecting the lock actuator end of the wiring to the body wiring is corroded or gummed up with junk.

When you are trying to lock the rear, are you driving?

Are you in LOW (or have the center diff locked)?

If driving, are you on dirt or pavement?--make sure you're on dirt if you're driving.

If you're not driving, you will not have much luck getting the rear to lock unless you jack up one tire off the ground and spin it with your hands.

Do you hear any clicks or winding type noises from the actuator?

EDIT: Jut reread your post more closely. With no power out of ecu to the actuator, I think WarDamnEagle is prob on the right track with the center diff.

-Ferg

 

[Calmecija]

Do you have a locking center differential (CDL)? If so then that will have to be locked before the rear locker will work. If you don't have a CDL then you will need to do what I did and connect it to ground. As you can see in post #3, it is ECU pin 15.

In my case my car does not have CDL, it have Tcase only for 4WD and Low, with manually actuator. Could i try to prove the ground continuity in pin 15 when I put the LOW position

 

[Calmecija]

The blinking light on the dash means that the lock switch sensor on the elocker motor at the diff is not getting a closed loop signal. In other words, the elocker actuator is sending a signal that it is trying to lock, but not able to lock locking. (Sort of....really it means the lock ecu is not receiving a lock signal from the lock sensor switch on the elocker motor.) As mentioned above, this could be caused by the central diff located in the tcase not being locked (btw if you don't have a "center diff lock" specific switch, you must put the tcase in LOW in order to lock the center) but could also be caused by a handful of other things... A few of those common reasons are that the lock teeth are not lining up correctly; another is that the lock fork is seized; another is that the harness connecting the lock actuator end of the wiring to the body wiring is corroded or gummed up with junk. When you are trying to lock the rear, are you driving? Are you in LOW (or have the center diff locked)? If driving, are you on dirt or pavement?--make sure you're on dirt if you're driving. If you're not driving, you will not have much luck getting the rear to lock unless you jack up one tire off the ground and spin it with your hands. Do you hear any clicks or winding type noises from the actuator? EDIT: Jut reread your post more closely. With no power out of ecu to the actuator, I think WarDamnEagle is prob on the right track with the center diff. -Ferg

My FZJ71 does not have a CDL.

The thrid Member at this moment are uninstalled and I'm doing the prove on a table.

I set the LOW position in the TCase before switch to rear locker.

It couñd be a ground connection problem due to the third Member uninstalled in the rear transmition?

I Will try connecting the pin 15 directly to ground.

I'm coming crazy with this.

Thanks for your opinions

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Connect pin 15 to ground. Report back. Or just ship that 70 series over here and I'll take care of it for you.

 

[Calmecija]

Connect pin 15 to ground. Report back. Or just ship that 70 series over here and I'll take care of it for you.

I put the pin15 directly to the ground, and the locker does not work, i think that the problem could be in the speed sensor. When i check the ground continuity it was not ok, could i connect the speed sensor to the ground?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I put the pin15 directly to the ground, and the locker does not work, i think that the problem could be in the speed sensor. When i check the ground continuity it was not ok, could i connect the speed sensor to the ground?

No, if you connect it to ground it won't work. It shouldn't be connected to anything if you don't have a speed sensor.

 

[Calmecija]

No, if you connect it to ground it won't work. It shouldn't be connected to anything if you don't have a speed sensor.

Ok I get it, in this point i dont know what is worng with the ecu. What is the funtion of the speed sensor in the ecu. What anything else could i do for make it work.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The function of the speed sensor in the ECU is to prevent the ECU from telling the locker to lock if the vehicle is traveling more than something like 5 mph. In other words, if you turn the switch to lock and the vehicle is moving at speed then the ECU will not send electricity to the locker until the vehicle is traveling slow enough.

I don't know why your locker isn't working. Perhaps you could take some pictures of the setup?

 

[Calmecija]

The function of the speed sensor in the ECU is to prevent the ECU from telling the locker to lock if the vehicle is traveling more than something like 5 mph. In other words, if you turn the switch to lock and the vehicle is moving at speed then the ECU will not send electricity to the locker until the vehicle is traveling slow enough. I don't know why your locker isn't working. Perhaps you could take some pictures of the setup?

Ok i Will Take some pics, but i just connect to the original wire como with the car. It is posible that the ecu could be dame eventhough o bougth it new.

 

[Calmecija]

Updating. Finally I found that the connector where i connect the locker wire, ir was not. The correct ome where un the behind the ecu. Finally the locker works perfectfly, but was missing the screw holding the actuator.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Great. I think.

 

[Rami Rabah]

I used the following FZJ80 elocker ECU wiring diagrams to help with the wiring. These are not the ones that I referenced in an earlier thread on this subject. I realized when I started wiring that the colors from my previous investigation did not match the ECU that I had in my hand. Luckily I had the FSM and wiring diagrams for my 1997 FZJ80 and saw that they actually matched those. I don't know what year the earlier referenced diagrams are from but I'm guessing it's maybe a '93 or '94 and that they changed the wiring colors slightly in either '95 or '96.

Here is a link to the earlier thread which talks about this wiring. I will go into that thread and make a note that the wiring colors may be different if you use an earlier 80 ECU:

elocker wiring and switches

I also found that the TRD elocker wire colors do not match the Landcruiser elockers but the attached table is what I used to sort out that issue:
View attachment 257125View attachment 257126View attachment 257127

Thanks for the diagrams and description,,,yesterday I installed the wiring for differential E-Lockers on my FJ40 and it worked perfectly.