Which oil are you using?

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Have you chopped one of each up and compared? I'd be interested in seeing the results.

No, not yet, but I will....

I'm just not interested in Thai substitutes. These outsourced manufacturing is all bean counter costs cutting.

If little Japanese hands didnt make them, I'm not that interested. :)

:cheers:

I agree, completely... When my supply of these various filters runs out, I'll prolly just use the Wix or Mobil 1 (when there's a sale :D).
 
lol proper viscosity.. The F series motors were designed when multi-weights were not even invented yet ;)

Well crap.

I originally intended to stay away from this thread or just post something like "the wet honey colored kind."

The world has changed a lot in 30 years! And I've only been here for 22.89 years... Cheers to you sir :beer:
 
FILTERS

I think this is a pretty good price - $6.73 each delivered

...from www.DiscountFleetSupply.com

Name Code Qty Each Options
----------------------------------------------------------
Wix 51773 Case of 12 WIX51773 1 66.72

Subtotal 66.72
Shipping 14.05
Tax 0.00
Total 80.77
 
Rotella 15-40 with the big Wix filter. No burning, no leaking, and oil stays golden for a long time.
 
No, not the little OEM filter.
The BIG Wix 51773 filter for dump truck & forklift application.


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Not sure if you care, but the 51773 is for dusty conditions, and only filters to 30 micron.

Normal filters(<10 micron) would clog early under extreme dust conditions.

Bigger is not always better.
 
I care, but the big filter has the advantage of increased dirt capacity, increased cooling area and increased oil capacity. The difference bet. 10 & 30 micron is not very noticeable in an antique engine w/ 100micron clearances.
 
This site has details on zinc levels (and everthing else) in most oils. Interesting, Delo 'LE' came in at 1,490 ppm - the most in its class. Rotella T had 1098 ppm....

Jim: Does this influence your thinking in picking a specific brand?
 
That's an interesting site - thanks for posting.
 
While the 2F does not have the valve spring pressures found in some flat tappet motors (especially double valve spring modified heads) that must have ZDDP to prevent the loss of cam lobes or lifters the higher the levels of ZDDP will net less wear overall. If you are planning on a 2F running several hundred thousand miles it is a wise choice to go for the ZDDP.

I ran 6,000 mile interval oil changes with a Baldwin PT251 or Wix 51773 and Delo 400 MG and put 20,000 miles on my 60 in 15 months. If you can't find the Delo 400 MG or Pennzoil 25W50 Off Road Racing Oils the Delo 400 LE with a ZDDP additive is probably one of the best options. The benefits of the large oil filter is well worth the extra trouble to locate one.
 
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No, not the little OEM filter.
The BIG Wix 51773 filter for dump truck & forklift application.


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If you use the "big" Wix, should you add more oil than the specified capacity? The stock amount of oil is 8.5 quarts, how much more should you add?


Zack
 
Ok, so after reading through the entire thread...whew...just in case my question was asked and answered, In the next month or so (praying to the LC gods) I will get my rig back on the road, standard 2F engine, NOT de-smogged, all stock, fully rebuilt, what would be the break-in procedure, what oil to use initially, and then after. On the first start I figure I might run it for a very short time, drain the oil, then fill again. I am assuming that I should not need anything like Rotella since it is a "new" engine...but you guys know a LOT more about oil than I do.
 
Still needed

I am assuming that I should not need anything like Rotella since it is a "new" engine...but you guys know a LOT more about oil than I do.

The problem with a 2F isn't the age of the engine, it's the design of the engine. Newer engine designs have roller rockers and lifters that create less wiping/wearing action and don't require the zinc in the oil to provide lubrication. (Someone else please correct me if I didn't state this as precisely as necessary).

A freshly-rebuilt 2F will require the same oil protection as an older one. I would run Delo LE and a zinc additive, at least for the first couple of changes.

I bought 4 gallons of Delo LE at Walmart last night for $12.49/gal.
 
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I read it all, which means from page 8 back I don't remember anything.....but what I can come up with is..

try to find an oil that is SL rated and add some zink additive

or use whatever oil you can find and add the zink addtiive

is that about it?

if now make it really simple(dumb) for me to remember :)

I have 7+ Cruisers to oil and lube....I have always just bought whatever was at Costco 10-30 5-30, Wix filters and change the oil every 3-4K, done this all my life....knock on wood I have never had a motor apart. Due to the price(and me being lazy), I have had the dealer change my oil on a few rigs this year, $28.50 out the door....but I am guessing the oil they use would not have the zink.

I had no idea oil had changed so much, would never had known about the lack of zink if not for this thread....which is really over my head anyway ;)
 

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