Where to begin - Inherited my Aunt's 77 FJ40

[120mm]

Cool pics! X 1000 on the "not use dynamat" comments.

My 80 series rusted quite aggressively everywhere there was interior insulation, once I brought it home from Arizona. I tore all that out to repair the rust, and ended up realizing the additional noise running without padding on the floor wasn't that bad, so I just left it bare metal with rubber removable mats over.

BTW, still haven't made it home to Iowa, though I can see light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[NellieFJ40]

Glad I've decided to not go the dynamat route. Now I've just got to decide on the chipgiard or not.

Shop is going to use axalta chroma premier single stange in and out. Outside will also then be clear coated.

 

[iptman]

Why the clear coat? Factory was straight single stage.

 

[White Stripe]

Clear coat makes the paint job more durable overall.

 

[NellieFJ40]

I'm still a bit confused by single stage only, single stage and clear, or base/clear. I think white stripe summed it up though that while the single stage doesn't need the clear it should make it slightly more durable. And, to be honest, its what the shop recommended.

As far as why they are suggesting ss/clear over base/clear im still not entirely sure.

They'd be willing to do whatever i want for the paint, but what do i know! As such i figure I'll just go with their recommendation.

 

[iptman]

I imagine most shops are more used to, and comfortable, spraying base coat, clear coat so that's what they'll recommend. If I ever restore my 40 I'll insist on single stage for authenticity sake. I don't believe a proper single stage is any less durable than base coat clear coat.

 

[White Stripe]

How would you sand and buff a scratch away with only a single stage?

I imagine most shops are more used to, and comfortable, spraying base coat, clear coat so that's what they'll recommend. If I ever restore my 40 I'll insist on single stage for authenticity sake. I don't believe a proper single stage is any less durable than base coat clear coat.

 

[Michael B]

Every semi truck in the USA comes from the factory with a single stage polyeurathane paint job that lasts millions of miles. Kind of hard to argue with those numbers in my book. That's what went on my 45 last fall. And this picture is before the final cut and buff.

 

[iptman]

How would you sand and buff a scratch away with only a single stage?

Buffing scratches out....? We are still talking about paint for an FJ40 right?

But seriously, you can do base coat clear coat if you want but it wouldn't be factory accurate. If you're planning on doing a factory color then you might as well do it with single stage like it was intended.

 

[NellieFJ40]

Yup factory color. Single stage urethane paint but then the shop is goimg to clear the exterior.

 

[120mm]

To me, clear coat makes the paint look cheap and fake. Like a bad boob job. Seriously tired of deep paint, esp. on older 4x4s. May as well put the gold 44" spinner wheels on, chop it and slam it.

Shops recommend base/clear because it's today's standard. It's what they know. Nothing looks worse than damaged base coat/clear coat, imo.

 

[dogfishlake]

Had to jump in on the paint discussion. The big advantages to base/clear are UV stability, wet look gloss, and ease of repair after damage. Most new colors are metallic and that's where base clear becomes a near necessity. Single stage metallics are a nightmare to get right in application, very difficult to repair, and basically cannot be cut and polished. The great thing about 40's is that the original finishes are non metallic. This gives the base clear argument less traction. Both are good with solid colors. Base clear will have a more "wet " look which is pretty, but not original. Single stage is closer to the real deal. It's your money, your call.

 

[dogfishlake]

To me, clear coat makes the paint look cheap and fake. Like a bad boob job. Seriously tired of deep paint, esp. on older 4x4s. May as well put the gold 44" spinner wheels on, chop it and slam it.

Shops recommend base/clear because it's today's standard. It's what they know. Nothing looks worse than damaged base coat/clear coat, imo.

I do powder coat work for a friend that has won "best restored musclecar" nationally on the ISCA circuit the last 5 of 7 years and they do a single stage urethane that lays down really smooth. They pretty much can't cut/ polish it much to keep from losing points. Kind of an old meets new approach, but along the lines of your point. Trying to look "period correct ".

 

[White Stripe]

Yes clear coat is from the devil and all kinds of crazy stuff could happen if you use it-magazine coverage, attention from attractive women, constant high fives and thumbs up, people taking pictures...best to be safe and go single stage.

 

[Honger]

Yes clear coat is from the devil and all kinds of crazy stuff could happen if you use it-magazine coverage, attention from attractive women, constant high fives and thumbs up, people taking pictures...best to be safe and go single stage.

All those things seem to happen to me and my single stage...

 

[Honger]

I got to thinking I dont think I ever shared these photos. Here is my Aunt in Nellie. These were taken the first summer she had her 40 and were taken in July of 77. This is the trail to Argentine Pass in Colorado.

Those pics man... priceless! Very cool to have vintage photos of the truck. You should have one framed in the garage.

 

[NellieFJ40]

Thanks for the continued thoughts everyone. Definately going with signle stage urethanre. I've just got to decide if i want clear over it on the exterior.

My priorities are to, where possible, keep it looking original while getting the most durable and fixable paint. Not suee of that means clear of not. Shop seemed to say that, at least on the interior, having clear over the single stage would mean more work if i wanted to repaint the floor at sny point.

 

[Jdc1]

One of my favorite things about the 40 platform is the many ways that they can be tastefully customized to the owners preference. While I value originality, it has its place on an original truck. The original paint jobs on a 40 were horrible. We owe it to them to use modern materials to preserve them to the best of our abilities. If you are going to the trouble and expense of taking a rig to bare metal, use what makes you happy and what your painter is comfortable spraying.

The purist mentality needs to be taken for some survivor 40s but most of the builds here lean towards restomods.

@NellieFJ40 , your Aunt would be very happy at seeing the attention her truck is getting.

 

[NellieFJ40]

@Jdc1 thank you for the kind thoughts! Ypu are right, there's no doubt my aunt would be thrilled. I've sure thought of her alot during this process which makes me happy!

@Honger good idea about the pics in the harsge. Ill make that happen for sure. Wish there was a way to wnlarge these old pics and not have them look terrible.

 

[freewheeling frank]

My recommendation is no undercoating and use single stage paint. Anything with undercoating on it is a bear to fix. And can trap moisture. Single stage paint is the easiest to fix and just looks right on these rigs.

Have fun with the process. these are great rigs and you have some real cool heritage going on with this rig.