All done with the body mounts. The very last bolt broke in a very awkward way. I ended up having to be a human Sawzall to cut the top of the bolt so that it would clear the frame. Very happy to have this one behind me. @RevISK I'll let you know after I take it for a spin if the difference is noticeable. View attachment 4014883View attachment 4014893
Sucks when the project has been going on for so many years and has gone through so many shops that there are tons of parts missing…. Hardware mainly in this instance…
I dropped and broke my old Innova timing light, so I picked up a new one with Volts/Advance/Dwell/RPM's
and compared it to the multimeter I normally use.
The Dwell and RPM's aren't even close.
I'm going with the multimeter numbers based on how the rpm's sound to me.
Has anyone else had this happen, or did I just get too cheap of a timing light?
I find this a concerning variable. How much more do we need to pay for accuracy between devices. I have some really low cost meters over the 50 years of screwing around with cars, electronics and house wiring. The house wiring has usually been consistent in measurements between all of them ..unfortunately the voltage varies more from our supplier than the meters. I can get 117v to 126v almost anytime of the day. But….the meters are on target with each other
Timing on my 40 makes big differences in running well between 9* and 12* …so the question is, where is it really?
Will report back once I test drive it. Worst case I am heading to Cedar Park Saturday.
The Energy suspension bolts for the running boards were too short...or I should say the gap between the running boards and the supports on my truck are apparently wider than spec, but I really don't feel like fixing that right now. So I picked up some shims and longer bolts to complete the installation. I gotta say, in my life I have never understood the engineering behind carriage bolts. They initially fit in a square slot that, over time rusts and no longer can grip the shank of the bolt. That resulted in my previous pic where I had to cut them free. The Energy Suspension solution is excellent. Threaded bar stock. Slides into the running board slots and provides great traction. I am confident in 50 years when my nephew's son decides to replace them, they will be easier to remove.
This summer I was noticing a difference in opinion from my different tire pressure measurement devices. My DeWalt inflator said one thing, digital tire gauge said another and old school one said something even different. Inclined to believe the old school one, it took three more of those to find an agreement between them. I found two that agreed with each other and coincidentally, my Dewalt inflator. Threw the rest out.
In the end, it was one of the cheaper gauges that was consistent. These were wide swings too, seven psi in each direction, not just steadily getting lower…
I find this a concerning variable. How much more do we need to pay for accuracy between devices. I have some really low cost meters over the 50 years of screwing around with cars, electronics and house wiring. The house wiring has usually been consistent in measurements between all of them ..unfortunately the voltage varies more from our supplier than the meters. I can get 117v to 126v almost anytime of the day. But….the meters are on target with each other
Timing on my 40 makes big differences in running well between 9* and 12* …so the question is, where is it really?
The light is sort of mechanical, it illuminates when the spark plug fires and is measured against the engines timing scale, pointers and the balancer or flywheel marks. The advance functions accuracy can be confirmed by comparing the results to those marks. When I rebuild a sbc I confirm the accuracy of the tdc timing marks on the harmonic balancer to the actual tdc of the piston, which can be off a bit. Your final timing adjustment is going to be set where the engine runs best without pinging regardless of where it's set on the scale. Your light offers a point of reference to advance or retard. The other functions of the light is a little concerning. I feel the tach is close enuff, volts tells me it's charging, as for dwell, I run an hei distributor.
I trust the timing light. Feeler gauge set is trust worthly. Volt meters can very some. Pressure gauges vary some. Tachometer/Dwell meter I have is seldom used.