MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
That's a pretty combo. Is there a web site or was it direct from the members?
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
That's next up for me too. Did the 1/2" work for all your heater lines? I am planning on replacing all the rubber. I already got my radiator hoses from CCOT. Need to measure and purchase the rest of the heater hoses.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Thanks. The rear step was purchased from @hyhpe in response to a "Wanted" add that I posted in the Mud classifieds. I noticed that City Racer sells a aftermarket one. The 1/2" heater hose to the rear works much better. It is a tight fit onto the connectors but the 5/8" hose was definitely too big and susceptible to leaks. Plus, I believe that I read that the OEM rear heater hose was smaller than the rest. Good luck on your project!
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
How about that hitch?
sombody has got to save that fj40.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
@Barn find makes and sells the receiver hitch. It is very nice quality.
I’m planning on going back over there hopefully sometime soon. This time with a knock on the door.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
Crazy, no door but it has hub caps!
Installed 3 point seatbelts, worked on Holley Sniper mapping and put some miles on her and smiles on many faces..next up, install HF 55 transmission..stay tuned
6f40j9
SILVER Star
I need one of those
6f40j9
SILVER Star
Put the carburetor back on after looking at pictures and diagrams and realizing that my linkage was assembled/modified incorrectly when it came to me as rebuilt. I was able to assemble it correctly and what a difference! Much more low end pep and I can do more than 50 when the secondary actually opens!
To be fair, I had originally installed the spacer wrong, so the linkage was binding and not opening the valves all the way, but it’s actually right now.
There’s still some timing to set, a hot valve adjust to do and an exhaust leak to fix, but it will get me through the summer anyway!
To be fair, I had originally installed the spacer wrong, so the linkage was binding and not opening the valves all the way, but it’s actually right now.
There’s still some timing to set, a hot valve adjust to do and an exhaust leak to fix, but it will get me through the summer anyway!
What a great pig
Thank you.
I don't think he will fit under the dash
With a fully functioning carburetor I drove the Pig to the nearest gas station so I could wash the windshield. First drive of any distance since the valvejob. It's a little different now, it's no magic bullet that makes it drive like a v8 but it's a little better than it was. Manifold vacuum at idle did not improve at all, but in climbing hills the vacuum doesn't seem to fall as far. It does seem to accelerate a little better. I may need to adjust my shift ponts.
Now that it's been nice and warm, I can retorque the head and manifolds again and call it done. Maybe put the hood back on.
Now that it's been nice and warm, I can retorque the head and manifolds again and call it done. Maybe put the hood back on.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
Got a bunch of parts that wouldn’t work on my ‘64 this week…ugh…rear door hinges and got sent the wrong skid plate.
But I did install a tach. It is bigger than I thought, but out of the way of all gauges.
But I did install a tach. It is bigger than I thought, but out of the way of all gauges.
Looks great!
Been planning this for a long time now. Got the knuckle rebuild kit from Kurt @cruiser Outfitters a while ago. In the box was a leaflet for the 2014 Cruiser Fest. LOL.
But I finally got around to it this week, and man was it ready for a rebuild. Threw in all the ball joints in the steering system as well. 555 kit, again from Cruiser Outfitters several years ago, and changed the front diff oil as well.
It was a little daunting, as I had never been into the front end, but after watching a few videos of the process, it is really only a 2 or 3
job.
I have a full floating rear end so I know how to deal with cone washers (BFH and a brass drift), and I have a fish scale to check the required pre-loads on the knuckle and the hub.
It went really well, with the only glitch, getting the PS axle back in. But after reading a few threads on here I just wiggled the thing and finally it slipped into place.
The DS axle took literally second to seat.
It took four days to do the job, I'm retired so I have lots of time. Day 1 was disassemble PS side, paint a few pieces and wait over night to dry, next day reassemble. Repeat for DS.
Brakes had lots of life left so I just wire brushed the mud off the calipers. The brake fluid looked like Coca-Cola so I flushed the old fluid out while I was in there.
Once I had the locking hub on, minus the outer part with the free/lock dial on I used one of the flex hose bracket bolts on the end of the outer axle to pull out the axle so I could install the snap.
But I finally got around to it this week, and man was it ready for a rebuild. Threw in all the ball joints in the steering system as well. 555 kit, again from Cruiser Outfitters several years ago, and changed the front diff oil as well.
It was a little daunting, as I had never been into the front end, but after watching a few videos of the process, it is really only a 2 or 3
job.I have a full floating rear end so I know how to deal with cone washers (BFH and a brass drift), and I have a fish scale to check the required pre-loads on the knuckle and the hub.
It went really well, with the only glitch, getting the PS axle back in. But after reading a few threads on here I just wiggled the thing and finally it slipped into place.
The DS axle took literally second to seat.
It took four days to do the job, I'm retired so I have lots of time. Day 1 was disassemble PS side, paint a few pieces and wait over night to dry, next day reassemble. Repeat for DS.
Brakes had lots of life left so I just wire brushed the mud off the calipers. The brake fluid looked like Coca-Cola so I flushed the old fluid out while I was in there.
Once I had the locking hub on, minus the outer part with the free/lock dial on I used one of the flex hose bracket bolts on the end of the outer axle to pull out the axle so I could install the snap.
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