No, there was enough material on the door to repair it with Bondo Fiber and then regular Bondo. I put on the fresh weather stripping this evening. Thankfully I found most of the window parts and a TON of broken glass in the bottom of the door. I'll get new felt eventually.
Think I just screwed it into the dash pad and never had an issue. (did not use additional support, although I like the suggestion in the previous post)
Decided to tackle the rust on the driver's side door. I'll need to punch some drain holes in them later. While waiting for bondo to cure and paint to dry I cleaned up the limiters and discovered the "sawn in half" limiter pin. Adding that to the list. View attachment 3492224View attachment 3492226View attachment 3492225
Started at the front bumper and tightened every nut, bolt and screw I could reach on the entire vehicle inside & out. Replaced quite a few rusty screws with new ones I have around the shop. Went for a 30 mile drive, Wilbur is significantly less "rattly". Still something in the back which I suspect is the rear window 'coz the seal is not real tight, but still rides a lot better.
Started at the front bumper and tightened every nut, bolt and screw I could reach on the entire vehicle inside & out. Replaced quite a few rusty screws with new ones I have around the shop. Went for a 30 mile drive, Wilbur is significantly less "rattly". Still something in the back which I suspect is the rear window 'coz the seal is not real tight, but still rides a lot better.
Found this stuff at a local weekend “Flea Market” type place last week. $5.00 for a 12’ piece. Used it as a scuff guard for the FJ45 tub framework around the doors and have about 4’ left over. Perfect fit too
Started at the front bumper and tightened every nut, bolt and screw I could reach on the entire vehicle inside & out. Replaced quite a few rusty screws with new ones I have around the shop. Went for a 30 mile drive, Wilbur is significantly less "rattly". Still something in the back which I suspect is the rear window 'coz the seal is not real tight, but still rides a lot better.
This activity should be the first thing new owners do. In my case, while working on the carb I noticed a "puff" on my hand from the exhaust manifold. I made a mental note that I'd have to revisit a blown manifold gasket. A few weeks later I decided to pull the manifold to inspect the heat valve. Turns out the last 3 nuts on the manifold, while a bit tricky to reach, were hand tight. I literally used my fingers to remove them. The gasket was fine. I reassembled and retorqued all the nuts and guess what...no leaks.
Today was my birthday, but the Land Cruiser thought it was his birthday too . Put on a power steering, new wheels and tires, new wipers, new battery. All I got was a jacket, lol.
Today was my birthday, but the Land Cruiser thought it was his birthday too . Put on a power steering, new wheels and tires, new wipers, new battery. All I got was a jacket, lol.
Finished this project a few weeks ago: Installed a new(used) fuel pump, added 2 filters one being the FJ60 update and upgrade being and having the highest flow rate , most media and, transparent too! Thanks @ToyotaMatt Also installed a new VCG, adjusted the valves , new exhaust gasket and new temp sending wire & connector. Nice having functioning gauges too!
I bought this nut setter kit at Harbor Freight when I put my seats back in. Previously the seats were screwed to the body with self tapping sheet metal screws. This is much better, I suggest getting one of these. It is well worth the fifty bucks.