Lost the last one on the North Slope a few years ago. Got home and haven't lost one since.I like this idea. Somehow I lost my 2F oil cap out wheeling once and had to use a rag to get home. Carried a spare cap for years now, just in case.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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Started getting the loom in the cab and had to see what it will look like with the vanity covers on in the engine bay
I installed a new thermostat because the engine won't get warm with the original "tropen thermostat". During idle the engine to get him warm (what hardly works in idle, because of the fixed fan), I opened the oil filler cap to check the oil supply of the valve drive and found a bolt head "dancing" under the rockerarm shaft 
Somebody already worked there: all bolts had the partnumber engraved, except the one, which broke.
So either somebody just replaced one bolt, or used a old one, or or or.
Just happy that I found it, although it looked like, that the bolt cracked long time ago.
So I had to remove the head and removed the broken shaft, cleaned everything and reinstalled the whole thing with new parts. Unfortuately the Zylinderwalls doesn't look so well anymore. They sold me the car with 120tkm and now it has 130tkm and I don't think, the engine has "only" that milage.
No polished parts in the wall so far, but the wear of 30years+ can clearly be seen, the hone-marks (what's the correct term for it?) are gone. The engine still runs good, has power, starts easily (for a DI-Diesel without glow plugs) and the oil consumption is within limits.
I also removed the oil pan and checked for radial play in the connecting rods. The engine has some kind of a mechanical "sound" which corresponds to the the engine speed. No play in the rods found.
During idle I loosened the injection-lines from the pump to "turn off" a single zylinder. The sound became a little bit less but was still there. Same effect for all zylinders. I hope/guess it's just the hard sound of a old DI-Diesel. They sound rough at times.
Here around 1:20
Somebody already worked there: all bolts had the partnumber engraved, except the one, which broke.
So either somebody just replaced one bolt, or used a old one, or or or.Just happy that I found it, although it looked like, that the bolt cracked long time ago.
So I had to remove the head and removed the broken shaft, cleaned everything and reinstalled the whole thing with new parts. Unfortuately the Zylinderwalls doesn't look so well anymore. They sold me the car with 120tkm and now it has 130tkm and I don't think, the engine has "only" that milage.
No polished parts in the wall so far, but the wear of 30years+ can clearly be seen, the hone-marks (what's the correct term for it?) are gone. The engine still runs good, has power, starts easily (for a DI-Diesel without glow plugs) and the oil consumption is within limits.
I also removed the oil pan and checked for radial play in the connecting rods. The engine has some kind of a mechanical "sound" which corresponds to the the engine speed. No play in the rods found.
During idle I loosened the injection-lines from the pump to "turn off" a single zylinder. The sound became a little bit less but was still there. Same effect for all zylinders. I hope/guess it's just the hard sound of a old DI-Diesel. They sound rough at times.
Here around 1:20
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
Got my Baja Designs Squadron Pros wired up and running. I have them on my 200 and absolutely love them, particularly in snowy conditions. The amber is easy on the eyes and adds quite a bit of visibility.
I started my rig standing beside it once...once.
It was in my garage and I was standing with the drivers door open.
I pulled the choke half way, pumped the gas pedal with my hand and fired it up.
The trans. was in reverse with the parking brake off.
It fired up and proceeded to drag me out of the garage at about 1200 rpm.
The drivers door caught on the edge of the garage and snapped the door limiter.
Halfway down my driveway I managed to push the brake pedal hard enough with my hand to stall the motor.
The 40 got a slight crease in the body/door frame, a used door limiter from Specter, and I got some bruised ribs.
Hard lesson learned, sometimes stupid does hurt.
Drove it to Lowes and parked next to a nice red '78.
Met the owner, and a previous owner of a '68 FJ40 joined us to talk cruisers for a while.
Really cool people, you gotta love the cruiser community.
Met the owner, and a previous owner of a '68 FJ40 joined us to talk cruisers for a while.
Really cool people, you gotta love the cruiser community.
Topless
Front TS rehab..
Getting very warm up here in the PNW. Got up early this morning and yanked off the hardtop while it was cooler. Summer can officially begin now.
Getting very warm up here in the PNW. Got up early this morning and yanked off the hardtop while it was cooler. Summer can officially begin now.
View attachment 3043604
Bravo..!!!
Getting very warm up here in the PNW. Got up early this morning and yanked off the hardtop while it was cooler. Summer can officially begin now.
View attachment 3043604
Curious is the brush guard mounted just to the bib. If so did you beef up the bib to support the extra weight of a Highlift jack? Just mounted to the bib with AZ's rocks and washboard road would have stress cracks in the bib pretty quick.
Brush guard has been beefed up with square tubing behind the jack and extra large hardware. I periodically check all bib bolts anyway but they rarely loosen up. No issues with cracking, even on washboard forest roads... must work as it's been mounted like this since '98!
Well, I dropped the vacuum gauge on my 78… needle is steady at less than 5in/hg, sprayed around intake and definitely have a leak.
Also, while looking for additional leaks, when I kink the vac line to the top of the distributer it jumps up to almost 15in/hg and steady… not sure how to process that information.
Also, while looking for additional leaks, when I kink the vac line to the top of the distributer it jumps up to almost 15in/hg and steady… not sure how to process that information.
Made another beach trip with the 40.
Also, my son's girlfriend sent some awesome 40 artwork.
And in the spirit of MUD, our kids and friends ended up in the marsh.
Also, my son's girlfriend sent some awesome 40 artwork.
And in the spirit of MUD, our kids and friends ended up in the marsh.
Goldbug
SILVER Star
Any tips for removing the old ones? I'm looking to swap in new ones but the originals don't want to budge.
The reason I had to do a rehab was the plastic base shattered when I took it off..
Copious amounts of PB or Kroil on the metal parts will help.Are they stuck on you LC or are you trying to remove the base? I almost switched to early LC because of the high $$$ replacement for a 76.
Goldbug
SILVER Star
They're stuck on the LC. I can't get the nut on the underside of the fender off since they'res nothing to really grab onto for the bolt. If I hold the whole assembly, I assume the plastic will all just break. I'll keep hitting it with PB though.The reason I had to do a rehab was the plastic base shattered when I took it off..
Are they stuck on you LC or are you trying to remove the base? I almost switched to early LC because of the high $$$ replacement for a 76.