What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (85 Viewers)

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Finished the DS rocker. Welded it one, slapped some mud, added nutcerts for the running board instead of through-bolting it. Tried to keep it looking ratty like the rest of the body. And again I'm forever humbled by all y'all bodywork guys. Cheers!

Drank a beer.


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rkymtnflyfisher said:
That is one cool ass rig, not that bolt on barbie jeep.
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If you look closely you can see the stupid eyeball stickers on the unexplainable plastic thing across the hood. They accented the fake, chrome beadlocks and the sideview mirror stickers (mittens?!) nicely.
 
Installed a new OEM vacuum advance distributor on my Feb. '76 40.

19100-61180 OEM work of art:
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My stock vacuum retard distributor looking 44 years old. I've only changed the points, cap and rotor in 18 years of ownership.
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I put the transmission in 4th gear and rolled my rig until the BB on the flywheel was at the pointer and the rotor was pointed between #3 and #4 spark plugs, about 12:00 perpendicular to the engine block. I Forgot to take a picture of this (DUH!)

Removed my stock distributor and noted the rotor spun clockwise from 12:00 to 2:00 because of the camshaft gear.

Lined up the new distributor and rotor (@ 2:00) It went in the block without a problem and the rotor spun counterclockwise back to 12:00.

This is as far as the new distributor went into the block:
IMG_2359.webp


I've read the horror stories of a distributor not being seated far enough to turn the oil pump, so I removed the new dizzy and noted the position of the oil pump slot in the block. Re-installed the dizzy and rolled the rig (still in 4th gear) so the rotor moved 1/4 turn. Removed dizzy and noted the oil pump slot also moved 1/4 turn.
🤔

I didn't note how far my old distributor was seated in the block before I removed it (DUH! again), but there is a mark from the clamp on the shaft that suggests it wasn't fully seated either.🤔🤔

Re-installed the new dizzy (getting really good at adjusting the rotor for camshaft gear compensation) and connected spark plug and coil wires.
Fired it up and made sure it had oil pressure (all good), then set the timing to about 10 degrees BTDC.

Checked dwell first, because I forgot to check the new distributor point gap before install (3rd DUH!)
Got 43.6 and FSM spec is 39-43 for my rig so I'm not going to mess with it.

Next up, vacuum and idle rpm. Steady 19.5 Hg @670 rpm. I'm stoked.
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Used a vacuum "Y" from @ToyotaMatt (Thanks!) to connect vacuum advance port on the new dizzy with my carb port and my smog VSV.
Yes, my rig still has a full smog system 🤐.

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I haven't road tested it yet to see how having vacuum advance instead of retard is going to change engine performance. I had my timing set at about 12 degrees BTDC with my old retard dizzy, so I'll have to see how it drives now before I adjust it.

Any suggestions/ideas on setting timing or the new distributor not seating fully are appreciated.
 
S.CarolinaFZJ80 said:
Looks nice. I've never seen the AC placed in the center below the dash like that. In 40's with the heater they were always placed on the passenger side as there was no other space for it.

Would you mind showing more of you ND ac retrofit?

I'm trying to get mine up and running again and it could help.

Thanks
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Thanks for remarks S.CarolinaFZJ80.

Our 40 series (Southeast Asian variety) were never optioned with the heating and ventilation system as it is deemed almost useless in the tropics. What we do have though were dealership optioned which eventually turned to factory installed ac system on the late year model.

It was originally installed on the center portion of the instrument panel as shown from the Toyota literature/brochure below specific for the ASEAN region. This one is for the Indonesian market as I am yet to find the brochure specific brochure to my 40, which is for the Philippine market but it's roughly the same for the ac blower placement save for the placement of the ac piping and lines as we're LHD as opposed to RHD.

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Another photo for reference on a friend's BJ40LV-KC with the Toyota Dealership option Nippondenso AC system.

ac placement.jpg


Will keep you posted as we install my ac system as we still have to do some bits and ends on interior and suspension.
My plan is to closely replicate the correct placement and bending of ac lines, drier receiver, firewall holes with all the original grommets, fittings and brackets as the current one was meant for R12 rather than R134A refrigerant not to mention it's old age. I will be using my existing R12 AC hardware for reference.

Cheers.
 
@Brian/99uzj100
here's the pighead method

Pighead said:
Buddy, are you having doubts as to if your dizzy is seated in your oilpump?
I'm going to tell you how I do it. And I've had lots of different dizzys in & out of my blocks over the last 24 years.

Stand on your passenger side front tire, leaning over the fender. Palm of right hand lies flat over over the dizzy cap. You've already engaged the two important gears, so that is not going to change if you rotate the engine. I do not look down the hole and try to align anything with a screwdriver, like some people do. I just lean down on the dizzy cap with one hand and turn the engine over with the other hand (my remote starter is usually a 17mm endwrench laid across the important posts on the starter), Putting 1/3rd to 1/2 of my body weight on the dizzy and spinning the engine. You sure can feel the dizzy dropping down that last 1/2 inch and seating in the oilpump with a clunk.
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probably with the coil wire diconnected
 
thebigredrocker said:
@Brian/99uzj100
here's the pighead method



probably with the coil wire diconnected
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Thanks Rocker, I read his post along with many others before I started swapping dizzy's. I'm getting a solid "clunk" when I seat the new distributor and I have oil pressure. I pushed as hard as I could while rocking my rig in 4th gear and it still has the same gap.
I'll mess with it more tomorrow, but I may go the route below if nothing changes, to get both bands of the clamp around the distributor. The gap in this pic looks exactly like what I'm dealing with.
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thecrazygreek said:
Finally finished my beta version of a 3D printed gauge holder.
The goal is to use modern day gauges in a OEM cluster.
This contraption holds the gauge in its proper location and depth. The rear plate it attaches to is also pushed out with a 3D printed gasket.

Going to test this weekend.

Printed the decal.

Again this is a beta version for functional testing...

I may end up going with a recess in the back panel that will hold 2 6mm jam nuts instead of the two threaded rods.

View attachment 2210467

View attachment 2210468
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I am extremely interested in how this turns out! Maybe a chance for you to take some of my money?!
 
Jdc1 said:
It looks like the 68 that was for sale a few years back. Did you get all of the awesome paperwork that he had with it?
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I never saw that 68, which is probably good. Yes, he had some cool paperwork with it from the 60’s. I’ll eventuallly start a build thread and post some of it.
 
Drove the Old Gurl up Santa Fe Saturday and Monday for some Phat Ski love. I love my Icelantic Gypsy's. They are soooo Beautiful!! Not much Pow! on Saturday but enough on Monday to make it worthwhile. Also the first time I stopped at Izanami. Highly recommended for Après Ski. Their sake selection is the bomb!
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