Go to a legitimate PDR guy? They should never drill into door cards or anything that can be removed, just add time to remove them...isnt that the entire point of using PDR, you don't damage anything but plastic clips.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (40 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Sounds like it's going to get a full vehicle respray with that many panels being touched...that is a major bummer
Slow Paddler
SILVER Star
Thank you. So the guide lays along the top of the first fixed section of the slide, but beyond that, the power cord is loose? No problem with it getting caught when retracting? I’m not sure I see how this is better than the coiled cord.
For reference, with the NL fridge on the Tembo Tusk slide in my old 4Runner, I used a bungee cord under the fridge to keep the power cord snug.
Pretty sure the doors can get PDR'd. Maybe only the hood and roof will get replaced. Not sure about the upper rear 3rd quarters, there are some large hits there along character lines that PDR might not be able to get out
You will be amazed what PDR can accomplish ... the worse case is that they will need to drop the headliner to repair these on the top.
What part of town did you get hit?
I'd still give it a go. The hood and roof I understand, it's difficult to get them smooth, but I dont know many shops that will replace a hood and not blend the fenders. Maybe I just have terrible luck with repaints, but I avoid repairing anything as I always have issues down the line.
Nicely done! That's definitely the way to run wires for fridge mounts.
For others reading, there's nothing special to the "ARB cable guide," it looks like a standard Cable Drag Chain, of which there are a million cheaper options on Amazon.
prharper
GOLD Star
There is no loose cable, that’s what the guide is for. It sits on top of the slide out, left hand side. Lower than the ADGU drawer to the left of it.
I originally had the coiled cable to the right of the fridge. It was a stiff cable. During trips, gear loaded to the right of the fridge would often interfere with that cable when pulling fridge out to access with gear still in truck. One of the pics shows bungee cords that I used to hold gear preventing it from falling into the right hand side of the fridge slide out.
Video in operation
Another pic until then.
Note: the wire coming out of the top bracket is fixed, it goes to the power input of fridge. Below that is a fixed bracket, with wire coming out to Anderson connector. The cable does not move inside the cable guide.
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My neighbor owns a PDR place and is coming over to look at it. Like I said tho, I've btdt on this and have a good idea what can and can't be done with PDR. The hood and roof will need to be replaced. Fenders, doors, maybe the hatch can get PDR'd. Up near the 3rd quarter where it rolls into the roof is questionable and probably needs metal work.
The body shop I use restores $10-50 million dollar Porsches, their work is outstanding. They've fixed all of my other cars, my Cayenne got completely repainted due to hail and it looked better than new.
If they blend into the fenders they'll have to remove my Safari Snorkel, which is fine because when it got installed they nicked the paint on the fender. I've got metallic black, so I'm sure they'll end up painting the fenders too...
Slow Paddler
SILVER Star
Ahhh! Now all is clear. Thank you so much forsaking the time to help me understand what's happening there. That will be perfect for my similar setup.
I set up my Prinsu roof rack with my CaliRaised light bar. I parked under a tree in my front yard, as it's the only place with shade in this 105 Texas heat.
digging that front grill. what is your wheel tire setup?
Picked this Heritage roof rack from a fellow mudder here. Thanks for the donation @MCtree
Installed using OEM roof rails and OEM cross bars, did not want to mess with dropping the headliner. The Lexus OEM cross bars distance is little bit off from the Yakima tabs, so the footing are about 1-1/2 to 2 inches off from center of cross bars but still fit very snug and solid.
Installed using OEM roof rails and OEM cross bars, did not want to mess with dropping the headliner. The Lexus OEM cross bars distance is little bit off from the Yakima tabs, so the footing are about 1-1/2 to 2 inches off from center of cross bars but still fit very snug and solid.
Just fit into the garage too 
sweet blue color.
sweet blue color.
Thanks man! The wheels are Method MR704, I'm pretty sure it's a zero offset, which means they will stick out about 2" more than stock. The Tires are K02's @ LT275 /70 R18. I bought them all from Discount Tire and they hooked me up (slightly) with a discount. Getting home was an adventure as they were rubbing like hell. I had to pull off the mud flaps and bang back the flap mount a bit. Then watched some videos on how to bend back fender liners with a heat gun. No rubbing now!
Note that grill, I'm not 100% into it, I would rather get my stock grill painted or wrapped black except for the logo, but the shops I talked to don't want to paint on chrome (or chrome plastic whatever) or wrap a grill. So I've been trying to find other options.
Barely cleared with suspension in low, phew. Yes love the color, matching gx and lx same color.Just fit into the garage too
I've seen some guys plasti-dip their grill and it looks pretty good. Would probably have to be touched up every couple years for rock chips. But cheap and non-permanent.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Sounds like you need to find better shops. Ed Martin Toyota wraps a bunch of grilles as part of their builds they do.
prharper
GOLD Star
Ed Martin Toyota also paints them. Etching process as well. It's more $$$
Good to know! I’ll call around and see if I can find someone in the Austin area
