What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (34 Viewers)

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Stuck like chuck
 
I know of a dozen places that carry fj40 parts, but Im wondering if you had to use a special thread pitch (I know the 200 has reversed threads)

I found standard Right Hand threads when I installed my TRD shift knob:

LC200TRDShiftKnob_29AUG15_zpsrtb9vdvm.jpg


Unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean by "reversed." :confused:

HTH
 
I found standard Right Hand threads when I installed my TRD shift knob:

LC200TRDShiftKnob_29AUG15_zpsrtb9vdvm.jpg


Unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean by "reversed." :confused:

HTH

Did you swipe your TRD Push Button from an GT86?
 
I installed Ironman Foam Cell Pro shocks and B rated front coils to replace my tired Radflo setup. I'll update the FCP thread once I get everything settled. They're beefy and ride good.

The Radflos were good, but after 50k they needed to be rebuilt. My best rebuild option was to send to CA since I couldn't find a local solution. The cost of shipping and the downtime of my vehicle drove me to replace the components rather than rebuild. I'll be listing them for sale soon.
 
Installed a group 31 battery in the factory location without a new battery box. I had to used a spacer on each end for now. The cables barely reach. This will all be fixed later. I have one on order, but this works for now.

Cleaned up wiring of all accessories and high current lighting. Ran duel rear 12v sockets for ARB Fridge. I copied what others have done basically.
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Put a rack on the rig. Pretty easy deal.
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Used some tape to hold the bolts in place while I installed by my lonesome - works well.
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Late night project
 
Installed a group 31 battery in the factory location without a new battery box. I had to used a spacer on each end for now. The cables barely reach. This will all be fixed later. I have one on order, but this works for now.

Cleaned up wiring of all accessories and high current lighting. Ran duel rear 12v sockets for ARB Fridge. I copied what others have done basically. View attachment 1126889
I have two of those in my boat. Damn they were expensive!!! BUT well worth the security
 
Powdercoating is the best way to go but my brother in law owns the business. I pay labor and materials.
My TRDs are presently textured bronze with the satin black rings to match the Toyota window trim.
I'm going to redo these before the winter to a gloss dark bronze. Pic below of color I want.
My second set of TRDs I'm going to do satin black without a ring but rather than weld the holes closed I found some plastic plugs that fit perfectly. Less weight without bling rings.
I just got 2 more wheels so I'll have two sets of five.
That said if anyone loves my wheels wants to swap a set of stocks since I'm going to redo them let me know.

Bead blasting really isn't necessary. Any good PC shop will be able to chemically strip the old finish off. ProFormance Industries uses an environmentally friendly stripper that will not harm the wheels. They only time the BB the wheels is when they are corroding.
Powder coating is great but nothing will stop a rock from scrapping through the finish. If I were rock crawling I'd just plastidip or spray them with flat black rattle can.
Still have 2 sets of 20s available too. The BBSs are on eBay. Hoping my neighbor will come to his senses and buy them for his tundra.
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No crawl control?!?!?! ;)
No crawl, no kdss, no traction control. Just a 4.6l v8 with minimal electronic interference.
I'm not sure how the crawl would've handled that I've seen them get out of some serious stucks, but my cruiser was resting on the chassis, trans and skid plate. The joys of the desert what once was a steep dip that would almost hit your front bumper turned to this in a week. I dug the chassis out twice and deflated down to 10 psi managed to move it a bit but after 2 hours of dealing with it with no water and 40c heat at night i called it quits and called up @Thebedouin60 and asked if I could borrow his pintle hitch.
 
No crawl, no kdss, no traction control. Just a 4.6l v8 with minimal electronic interference.
I'm not sure how the crawl would've handled that I've seen them get out of some serious stucks, but my cruiser was resting on the chassis, trans and skid plate. The joys of the desert what once was a steep dip that would almost hit your front bumper turned to this in a week. I dug the chassis out twice and deflated down to 10 psi managed to move it a bit but after 2 hours of dealing with it with no water and 40c heat at night i called it quits and called up @Thebedouin60 and asked if I could borrow his pintle hitch.

:( I would come help if I was closer.. Good looking rig BTW!!! Good luck!!!
 
Time for some MAXTRAX?
Exactly what I was thinking, i had the ones that roll out (bushranger x-trax) but those were useless in the sand. The best thing would be to find a ground anchor that would actually work in deep sand, most just plow through and not anchor in under the sand
 
Or maxsa if you don't want to drop +$300 on traxs
 
I installed Ironman Foam Cell Pro shocks and B rated front coils to replace my tired Radflo setup. I'll update the FCP thread once I get everything settled. They're beefy and ride good.

The Radflos were good, but after 50k they needed to be rebuilt. My best rebuild option was to send to CA since I couldn't find a local solution. The cost of shipping and the downtime of my vehicle drove me to replace the components rather than rebuild. I'll be listing them for sale soon.

Where did you source the kit from?

Installed a group 31 battery in the factory location without a new battery box. I had to used a spacer on each end for now. The cables barely reach. This will all be fixed later. I have one on order, but this works for now.

Cleaned up wiring of all accessories and high current lighting. Ran duel rear 12v sockets for ARB Fridge. I copied what others have done basically. View attachment 1126889

I used post adapters on the 2 studs for the wing nuts. Had to slightly bend the terminal, but they both fit.
 

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