What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

[TJsTACOMA]

Well after a little more than four weeks of waiting, look what's finally showed up



Just waiting for the rear shocks now...

I'm just afraid this is going to cut into my valuable time this weekend!!



I have been tinkering on my second battery too. All brackets are fabbed up and ready for paint and install. The second battery is a little higher than the main because I've built an area below the battery to house the solid state charging relay:

What size is the second battery and more details please. Looks good

 

[619TOY]

Nice! How much was this set up? Comparable to kings and foxes?

We can talk about it over some beers in Ouray

What size is the second battery and more details please. Looks good

I'm hoping to have enough progress to update my build thread in a day or two, but it's a group 31 and a group 34...

 

[KY Longhunter]

Just arrived today...

 

[Willy beamin]

Just arrived today...

View attachment 1119521

Come to Ouray and test them out

 

[brussum]

Today's only TLC-related accomplishment was backing the beast into the garage. The real chaos starts tomorrow with a TJM bullbar and OME suspension install. It should be a good time!

 

[KY Longhunter]

Come to Ouray and test them out

I've thought about it, trust me. I feel guilty leaving the family behind. Then I read a thread where some dude rolled his Polaris, yikes!

 

[Willy beamin]

Memories are all you have once your kids stick you in a nursery home....

 

[brussum]

Installed my new OME rear suspension (still working on the front). It sits a lot taller than I expected. I kind of like the new stance, but I did get a disapproving head shake out of the wifey. Maybe it'll settle down a little over time; otherwise, I may have to "invest" in an ARB rear bumper...you know, for the weight.

Honestly, I thought the front suspension would be easier to do, but it's not as willing to drop down and relieve pressure on the shocks/springs. And, I haven't yet figured out the best way to remove the upper control arm bolt. I also can't get the steering ball joint to pop loose. I did drop a few good expletives during the day!

 

[Willy beamin]

Today I addressed all of my past rush wiring jobs and did it correctly. Took notes from @pdxlc200 in a post he had some time ago.

 

[Tripledave]

Full hand wash and complete detail. All black trim treated with 303 Aerospace. Oil change and Lube driveline. Road trip tomorrow to Superlift ORV Park!

Sent from my extremely unreliable mobile device using IH8MUD Forum

 

[TexAZ]

Brussum, to get the lower control arms to drop, mark the cam bolts where the arms mount to the frame, then loosen the nuts that clamp them into place. you may want to disconnect the sway bar linkage also. They will drop down after that. If you pop the ball joint at the upper control arm free from the knuckle, there shouldn't be much tension on the upper control arm bolt. on the 08' drivers side there is a wiring loom in the way of the bolt moving forward. unhook the loom from the perch and pull it to the side. keep the washer close to the upper arm bushing, that way only the bolt head has to move past the loom. similar story on the passenger side, its a little more crowded with hoses, just work from the top and slide the bolt head past the hoses one at a time. getting it back through is definately easier with two people. have a helper hold the upper arm in place while you finagle the bolt past all the hoses and into the bushings.

hope this helps....

 

[brussum]

Brussum, to get the lower control arms to drop, mark the cam bolts where the arms mount to the frame, then loosen the nuts that clamp them into place. you may want to disconnect the sway bar linkage also. They will drop down after that. If you pop the ball joint at the upper control arm free from the knuckle, there shouldn't be much tension on the upper control arm bolt. on the 08' drivers side there is a wiring loom in the way of the bolt moving forward. unhook the loom from the perch and pull it to the side. keep the washer close to the upper arm bushing, that way only the bolt head has to move past the loom. similar story on the passenger side, its a little more crowded with hoses, just work from the top and slide the bolt head past the hoses one at a time. getting it back through is definately easier with two people. have a helper hold the upper arm in place while you finagle the bolt past all the hoses and into the bushings.

hope this helps....

Wow! That's a great help! Thanks.

I finally got the tie rod ends to break free, although I sacrificed them in the process. Will order new ones tomorrow. The sway bar links came apart without too much difficulty and I was able to drop the lower arms enough once the tie rods, sway bars, and upper control arms were free. I'll break the lower arm bolts free on reinstall to see if that gives me more for the longer springs/shocks.

I have learned throughout this process that the Land Cruiser is a friggin' engineered beast! It makes my Jeep Wrangler look like my six year old designed it.

 

[Willy beamin]

Watched the project 200 back up camera relocate video and drank a few beers to get my confidence up to par and then tackled the job.

This next pic is the grommet under the rear sides of the bumper -both driver and passenger - and is your access point to start your cable run.

Next is where that wire ran through the grommet enters the rear of the vehicle.

Then run it where you find room.

And the up the rear support by the flip down seats. And back through the the weather fittings and so on.

In short it's not hard, it's just time consuming. I'm having a camera mounting bracket made and will inset that in the center of my rear tire carrier spare. Should be a clean install and the camera will be protected with a good view once I'm finished.

 

[kreiten]

a couple beers always helps!

 

[BTUMAN]

Full hand wash and complete detail. All black trim treated with 303 Aerospace. Oil change and Lube driveline. Road trip tomorrow to Superlift ORV Park!

View attachment 1120489


Sent from my extremely unreliable mobile device using IH8MUD Forum

Oh..you might should have waited on that detail..most of the pin strips you will get at superlift will buff out..some will leave scars. But fun. I plan to go for the southern cruiser crawl.

 

[TexAZ]

Brussum, I have stock tie rod ends if you need a set. They have 143k miles on them, but are still solid with no play in the joints. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.

On that note, if anyone needs upper/lower control arms or axles, I've got a full set in great condition.

 

[TJsTACOMA]

So I wanted to remove the driver side second row seat to extend my drawer system, but there is an air bag connector going to the rear seats. Looks like that is a no go.

 

[619TOY]

Oh my gosh, what a weekend!!! Record setting 100° plus temps and social plans every day... Still manged to squeeze in a lift though

I'm not going to lie, there were some frustrating times involved with this project

I'll post up a more detailed report in my build thread when I get a chance, but here's a couple teasers for now

 

[brussum]

Oh my gosh, what a weekend!!! Record setting 100° plus temps and social plans every day... Still manged to squeeze in a lift though

I'm not going to lie, there were some frustrating times involved with this project

I'll post up a more detailed report in my build thread when I get a chance, but here's a couple teasers for now

Looks good so far! Any tips on removing the upper control arm bolts? It seems the predominant strategy is patience and lots of fiddling with it to maneuver in confined spaces. I'd appreciate any insights you can offer.

 

[619TOY]

Looks good so far! Any tips on removing the upper control arm bolts? It seems the predominant strategy is patience and lots of fiddling with it to maneuver in confined spaces. I'd appreciate any insights you can offer.

Removing those bolts was actually one of the easier aspects of the lift. There are two harnesses to unclip from the fenderwell on the passenger side and one to be freed by removing a 10mm nut from on the driver side. The easiest way to remove the clips intact is to push their locking tabs toward the center of the clips (you can see how they're made and lock in by studying the white clips that affix the smaller fender liners). The harness clips are accessed on the tire side of the fender well. Once you've removed the harness clips and pushed the harnesses out of the way, just feed the bolts out. Pay attention to the washer and keep it next to the arm or it will catch the fender and bind up the bolt.

Good luck