What have you done to your 200 Series this week?

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Those lug nuts don't look like they are fully engaging the threads. Did you torque them down after that photo?

I have spidertrax spacers and they have you use red loctite on the lugnuts. Did yours have similar?
 
While these look hubcentric, the wheel probably fits on the centering lip with some play. Most spacers are 110mm and wheels are 110.5mm. That is really minor but could contribute to a stacking of tolerances. Try the following mounting technique.

Lift car in a fashion that lets you manually rotate the wheels while they're in the air.

Take a critical look at the spacer to see if it's centered on the hub centering lip, rather than offset to one side.

When initially mounting the wheel, use a sequence of low torque in a star pattern, while also spinning the wheels between lugs. This gives the heavy wheels/tires a better chance to center without being offset to one side.
 
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04UZJ100 said:
What does a battery tracker do? Looks awfully exposed on the front of the bumper...?
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The charger is well protected in the bumper and is waterproof. The tracker is a battery analyzer that connect to the phone.
 
mep1811 said:
The charger is well protected in the bumper and is waterproof. The tracker is a battery analyzer that connect to the phone.
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I have that same exact NOCO charger, but mine is mounted behind the grille near the left headlight, on a custom made bracket that took waaay too long to make. I was nervous about having it exposed to a driving rain, so I called NOCO and they said it is 100% waterproof and it shouldn't be a problem. Still, I put mine behind a chunk of lexan just to shield it from a hard rain while driving, but I can still see the lights.

IMG_20190712_155611.webp
 
BrownDog09 said:
I have - 97 ft lbs. I have removed them, checked for proper seating, rust, anything. Who knows at this point. They look great on the OEM wheels but they may have to go.
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97-lbs is the torque spec for the wheels.

Did you torque the Spidertrax to 130-lbs (with red loc-tite), drive around for 50 miles, then recheck the torque of the spacers' nuts at 120-lbs?
 
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BrownDog09 said:
I would be curious to see if you felt these negatively affected ride qualify. I put on a set of 1.25” Spidertrax and have been unable to achieve the same ride as before spacers. I have had 3 balances performed by two different shops. Final attempt was I just paid for a road force balance and the tech was able to get the vehicle close to good, but it still vibrates at 50-60 MPH.
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I did pick up a vibration over 65mph, but I also found a wheel weight next to the rear drivers tire before I put the spacers on. Going to have tire re balanced Monday morning. Hope that fixes it.
 
CharlieS said:
Those lug nuts don't look like they are fully engaging the threads. Did you torque them down after that photo?

I have spidertrax spacers and they have you use red loctite on the lugnuts. Did yours have similar?
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I see what you mean about the nuts. I did torque them down after the photo. Still the front spacers don't look the same as the rear. I will call KSP to make sure this is correct.

Drivers Front.webp


Passenger rear.webp


Drivers rear.webp


Passenger front.webp
 
^Nicely done. I'm liking the various installs with house battery away from the engine bay. Yes, it takes up some room, but tis the proper way for these fancy chemistries.
 
grinchy said:
No less safe than the random overstuffed box I had previously. I have certainly considered making a cage for the luggage area since I do have a kid back there occasionally.

This is really a test to see if if need to get a real drawer.
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To me, drawers aren’t just storage.
They also bring;
-a larger cargo footprint (no wheel well bumps),
-a sleeping surface 80+ inches with second row folded down,
-safety (heavy recovery gear and tool secured,
-lowest (COG) weight storage,
-Tiedown points for other misc. cargo & gear....and
-the ability to access key items without unloading other cargo carried above them.

-And finally... Quiet.
...Packed well, my drawers and the zillion items inside them don’t make a sound, even on bumpy stuff.

The plastic under-bed thing works....right up until you want something out of it with luggage or other gear piled on top. ;)
 
Markuson said:
To me, drawers aren’t just storage.
They also bring;
-a larger cargo footprint (no wheel well bumps),
-a sleeping surface 80+ inches with second row folded down,
-safety (heavy recovery gear and tool secured,
-lowest (COG) weight storage,
-Tiedown points for other misc. cargo & gear....and
-the ability to access key items without unloading other cargo carried above them.

-And finally... Quiet.
...Packed well, my drawers and the zillion items inside them don’t make a sound, even on bumpy stuff.

The plastic under-bed thing works....right up until you want something out of it with luggage or other gear piled on top. ;)
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....and added lockable security. Someone peers in, they just see what looks to be carpeted flooring.
 
Restored my headlights. They were about 80% OK but there was a lot of hazing on the top and bottom portions.
Took a while to get it well taped up and prepped. (lesson learned - use the aggressive green frog tape and not blue tape. The blue will come loose with water) I used 2 kits. The 3M Kit for sanding and the Sylvania Kit for UV protection. Sylvania does have a complete kit, but you have to hand sand. I found the drill adapter with the 3M kit to be much easier to use and the sandpaper doesn't clog with material easily. I do wish they added something between the 800 and 3000 pads.
Here are the pics from the 500 grit sanding, 800 grit sanding, 3000 grit sanding, polishing and clear coating.
Not perfect but so much better than before.

headlight-1.jpg


headlight-2.jpg


headlight-3.jpg


headlight-4.jpg


headlight-5.jpg
 
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