What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (25 Viewers)

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And thanks for the reminder, I just ordered my kit today.
 
Replaced OEM with Front Runner roof rack and added the Maxtrax side mounts with Maxtrax locking pins. Wasn't sure what to expect given some of the recent posts, but everything is looking good. I bought a Hi Lift mount for the other side which I'll install before my next trip I'll bring it on.

fea1RmI.jpg
 
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And thanks for the reminder, I just ordered my kit today.
You'll like it, but not during the installation. :bang:

Several times I decide to continue ONLY because I'd already invested too much time into the installation. I guess I'm not too patient. I am glad now that I persevered.
 
Any of you guys who are replacing your roof racks want to get rid of your rails? I want to replace my LX rails with LC rails.
 
Very nice! Are you saying that because you can mount the tent to the cross bars, and then put it on the roof and bolt the cross bars into the Prinsu rails/mounts? (I don't have either Prinsu or RTT, just have been reading up). Or for some other reason?
It is a modular design with standard 1x2 80/20. This makes for a very versatile platform. AFAIK it’s also the lowest option so it saves a couple inches of clearance. The built in valance is great too. I’m pleased.
 
Wrestling back and fourth with the dealership that sold us our 2017 LC without the SD card is what I've been doing for my 200 series this week!!
 
Installed a full length Toyota rack:

3Ia0DR2.jpg


So much room for activities now!

hUMqax1.jpg


This should have been a one banana job but two of the clips for the bolts fell to their death somewhere in my headliner. I’m paranoid that it’s going to leak so I’m going to try to shoot a nutsert in the holes so I can get a bolt In.

Learning as I go!
 
I’m paranoid that it’s going to leak so I’m going to try to shoot a nutsert in the holes so I can get a bolt In.

They will absolutely leak.
 
They will absolutely leak.

KtBR04e.gif



Yup, I know. Nutsert set en route. I siliconed everything up in the meantime. Luckily we’ve got decent weather for next couple of days.
 
Just finished this upgrade a few minutes ago.

IMG_20180426_235919.jpg


For anybody considering this, a few tips:

* The Slee directions make it seem a little easier than it really is, but it's not bad. This is the second time I've installed this tray. It's much easier if you remove the front wheel, you have a lot more room to pull down the inner fender liner.

* Drilling the hole for the 4th bolt seems a little overkill, but I did it anyway. Seems like 3 3/8" bolts would be sufficient to hold it down.

* Get stainless bolts for the tray.

* The toughest part of the job is holding the bolts from above while you try to wrench the nyloc nuts from below. A second person makes this much easier, just to hold the wrench from above.

* That Group 31 battery is one heavy SOB. Put a blanket on the rad support, hoist the battery up and set it there while you re-position and stand on a raised platform to set the battery down into the tray.

Time for a :beer:
 
Installed a full length Toyota rack:

3Ia0DR2.jpg


So much room for activities now!

hUMqax1.jpg


This should have been a one banana job but two of the clips for the bolts fell to their death somewhere in my headliner. I’m paranoid that it’s going to leak so I’m going to try to shoot a nutsert in the holes so I can get a bolt In.

Learning as I go!

Are those OEM rails or did you get the ones all over ebay? Did you read the long thread on here about the perils of removing the factory rails?
 
I’m paranoid that it’s going to leak
They will absolutely leak.

KtBR04e.gif



Yup, I know.

Being “paranoid” that they are going to leak and “no S@&t” “Yup I know” do not convey the same level of certainty.

Paranoid means unrealistic distrust. I figured you weren’t sure if they would leak. Your follow-on post proves me wrong...you do know, just not the meaning of paranoid. Good luck!
 
Just finished this upgrade a few minutes ago.

View attachment 1687241

For anybody considering this, a few tips:

* The Slee directions make it seem a little easier than it really is, but it's not bad. This is the second time I've installed this tray. It's much easier if you remove the front wheel, you have a lot more room to pull down the inner fender liner.

* Drilling the hole for the 4th bolt seems a little overkill, but I did it anyway. Seems like 3 3/8" bolts would be sufficient to hold it down.

* Get stainless bolts for the tray.

* The toughest part of the job is holding the bolts from above while you try to wrench the nyloc nuts from below. A second person makes this much easier, just to hold the wrench from above.

* That Group 31 battery is one heavy SOB. Put a blanket on the rad support, hoist the battery up and set it there while you re-position and stand on a raised platform to set the battery down into the tray.

Time for a :beer:

Personally, I think the Slee main tray is literally OVER secure. Not that that’s a bad thing...just that I don’t think it needs extent of underbolting provided.

Consider this-
-The stock battery “tray” is a loose, plastic thing that is secured only by the fact a heavy battery is wedged on top of it with the standard battery bar clamp. That’s it! No lower screws at all...at least not on my 08.

The Slee tray would stay put even without any lower bolts at all, given the big ol clamp over the battery.

When I did mine, I skipped the under-skirt part and there was still no way that tray was going anywhere.

But anyway... I’m glad you got Er done...just not convinced it’s necessary to get under it.
 
Has anyone swapped connections to have the starting battery be the smaller one on the passenger side? I did this on the 100 and it worked well as the main cable comes from the center back of the motor and can easily be swung to the other side. Then just jumper over to the main fuse block with 2ga. Haven't researched feasibility with the 200. Hoping the group 35 can keep the hotel loads running overnight even in the summer.
 
Has anyone swapped connections to have the starting battery be the smaller one on the passenger side? I did this on the 100 and it worked well as the main cable comes from the center back of the motor and can easily be swung to the other side. Then just jumper over to the main fuse block with 2ga. Haven't researched feasibility with the 200. Hoping the group 35 can keep the hotel loads running overnight even in the summer.

Yes. My passenger battery is my starter.
 
Has anyone swapped connections to have the starting battery be the smaller one on the passenger side? I did this on the 100 and it worked well as the main cable comes from the center back of the motor and can easily be swung to the other side. Then just jumper over to the main fuse block with 2ga. Haven't researched feasibility with the 200. Hoping the group 35 can keep the hotel loads running overnight even in the summer.


there is a good write up in the FAQ, BTUman did this swap.
 

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