What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
- Thread starter SHUSH
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After years of being annoyed by wind noise at highway speeds coming from the corner of the driver's side door - right above my left ear - and not being able to resolve it by adding some extra sealing to the door seal, I discovered that the window rail had slightly pulled away from the corner of the door frame. I theorized that it was allowing a small amount of air through the seal once the air speed was high enough to open a flow path.
I tested this theory by sealing it on both sides with literal duct tape and chewing gum. I am overjoyed to report that this has resolved the issue.
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I'll get in there and seal it up for real once the weather stops sucking. In the meantime, I cannot begin to tell you how much of a relief it is to be rid of that noise
Same problem here. Window track rubber separated at that top corner. Contemplating replacement of the track rubber, or a seal it up hack job...
That sucks....and hurtful irony, that's right where they all break while installed as well...
The cost of a replacement part isn't hateful but I don't know how involved the actual work is.
In my case it seems like it's going to make the most sense to just put some black RTV or similar in there and call it good.
You guys made me look at my 04 project, is this some kind of bad casting?
FYI…
It seems that the window glass run, Part # 68151-60031 has an updated version…
Latest version is part # 68151-60032. And is 1/2 the price of the older version… from Amayama.
Not difficult to replace the door window run.
Check this link… charm.li
Free online repair solutions…
Repair and Diagnosis — 2002 Lexus LX 470 V8-4.7L (2UZ-FE) Service Manual | Operation CHARM
Detailed repair manual for the 2002 Lexus LX 470 V8-4.7L (2UZ-FE).
charm.li
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You guys made me look at my 04 project, is this some kind of bad casting?
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Mine...
Edit: Oh, and I forgot, this one is a replacement bought used and uncracked. The original was also broken in the same spot.
I think it has something to do with the "foam-like" nature of the sealing tape (I don't know it's technical name) it compresses then takes too much torque to tighten then cracks. If someone knows more specifically, chime in.
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My third brake light broke in the same spot. I replaced with new OEM a few months ago, I'll report back if/when it cracks. Seems like the curve of the part and the fact it's only held on at 2 locations puts too much stress on the part leading to the crack.
Good catch. I used Amayama's epc-data offshoot site to get the part number and picked the wrong option.
I use partsuq for the diagram, input that number into a Toyota dealer site and it typically gives me the updated PN.
Those window seals are gravy, did them when I first picked up my cruiser
Those window seals are gravy, did them when I first picked up my cruiser
Hi Snowman
Am suffering a similar wind noise issue in the top corner of my drivers door. I have two layers of sound insulation throughout my Landcruiser a butyl layer and mass loaded vinyl. I am now tracking down one of the next level of sound annoyances one of which I note others have resolved with the replacement of the door run rubber seal. Am not able to decipher the appropriate instructions from the manual but assume I need to remove the door card to get access to remove and replace the door run seals. Please let us know if I am on the right track and if there are any key points of note in the job.
How to remove interior door trim…
Check this thread to replace window run…
Another for 100 series window run…
Here’s another one for the 80 series window run… probably very similar to 100 series…
Installed a set of Auxbeam 9” 360 Pro lights
You can drop a lot of coin to replace it, but honestly you can glue it back together (I used clear epoxy) if your OCD will tolerate it. It will function completely and no one will even notice.You guys made me look at my 04 project, is this some kind of bad casting?
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I have my old light I pulled off to replace with a new one. No cracks, but the foam seal was deteriorated and leaking water into my trunk, so you'll have to scrape and reseal it somehow. PM If interested
You should!
The coin covers a plug that's inserted from factory, coolant passes through the throttle body to warm it up on really cold weather, and that plug started leaking. I can replace the TB for $$$$ or try a quick repair with a suitable sized coin and epoxy glue, as of now it seems it's working.
Not unique to our vehicles btw, many cars have the coolant flow in the TB and these plugs are prone to leak after a few years, mine took 20 years and almost 300k miles to do that.
You should!
The coin covers a plug that's inserted from factory, coolant passes through the throttle body to warm it up on really cold weather, and that plug started leaking. I can replace the TB for $$$$ or try a quick repair with a suitable sized coin and epoxy glue, as of now it seems it's working.
Not unique to our vehicles btw, many cars have the coolant flow in the TB and these plugs are prone to leak after a few years, mine took 20 years and almost 300k miles to do that.
Interesting… my 2002 LX has a different setup, besides the throttle cable…
Threaded steel plug with an aluminum crush washer. The threaded hole in the center of the coolant plug is for the engine beauty cover retaining bolt.
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If you're talking about these:
you do not need to remove the interior door panel. the seals pop out in several places along the door, and the new seals should come with new plastic rivets already attached to the seal.
The PNs for the seals are:
Rear: 6787260070, 6787160070
Front: 6786160101, 6786260101
If that's not what's leaking for you, disregard...
I like the license plate.