It's not lost on me where you hail from...as it relates to rust and as it relates to the MOT. I bet undercarriage treatments
are WAY more common over there.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (17 Viewers)
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are WAY more common over there.
I bought this old girl with my heart, and it was slapped in undercoat and other coverings to hide rust and lots of questionable repairs. It's a slow task and definitely not financially viable, but I'm determined and will not be beaten.
FWIW I spent $30 from EBay and replaced mine. It’s not high quality leather but it looks pretty good. If I have to replace it in a few years I won’t be mad.
that looks great, i wonder if i can convince the wife to have a go?
I did mine too (see the photo above) with the Loncky supplier on Amazon. It’s really not that hard, just tedious. Pulling the steering wheel helped tremendously. I say spend the $60 and ask the wife once it arrives
Wow! Great deal. Looks good.
Just finished the center console. All that’s left is the DS seat bottom. C’mon Serra!
Irishpilot
SILVER Star
I went “old school” and installed new OEM headlight housings and HIR bulbs from Daniel. I’m very happy with the improvement. Are HIDs brighter, yes. Am I happy with a plug and play solution - yes. This pic is my low beams on a dark road.
Irishpilot
SILVER Star
GTV
SILVER Star
Day one- Tore down my engine to the timing belt. Swapped out the heater T's (96k miles, still solid) for 80 series brass T's and replaced the spark plugs. Plugs 6 and 4 weren't exactly tight and number 5 was actually very loose and the coil is discolored. I'll keep an eye on it and pack a spare. I'm glad I caught it when I did and I'll be checking plug torque again well before the next timing belt.
Even though this is my 3rd timing belt job I found the LC much more challenging to work on. Tundra/Sequoia is a breeze by comparison.
Even though this is my 3rd timing belt job I found the LC much more challenging to work on. Tundra/Sequoia is a breeze by comparison.
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Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
My 1999 UZJ100 came with the cabin air filter feature. You need to remove the glove box drawer to access the filter door.
Twisted brake line replaced, it's the centre rear brake line so maximum awkward without a ramp.
I don't like doing brake lines crawling around under the truck, still onto the next thing and that's putting new springs under the bugger.
I don't like doing brake lines crawling around under the truck, still onto the next thing and that's putting new springs under the bugger.
Dang that looks great honestly!
1999 LC100: I did the same. I replaced both the left and right headlight assemblies (right hand: 81019-60072, left hand: 81059-60072). Notice the difference in the reflectors: Daniel said I needed to check to see if the reflectors had dulled before bothering putting HIR/HIR2 bulbs in. I can say that the new assemblies made a world of difference along with the bulbs.
What bulb did you go with?
Where’d you source your headlights from? I was in the same boat and ended up replacing my tired old headlights with a slightly used eBay set. Daniel hooked me up with bulbs as well. They made a huge difference in nighttime visibility.
Vosla HIR2 (9012) +120 for the low beams and
Toshiba HIR1 (9011) for the high beams.
The lenses on my fog lights are clouded and the reflectors behind them are dulled, but I'm not sure I want to drop $200+ for each -- assuming I can even get them. I might just polish the lens for now.
I got them through the local Toyota dealership in Walnut Creek, CA. They came to $235.16 each with free shipping. Unit Sub-Assy, Headlamp W/Clearance, LH from $209.83 | Toyota OEM parts 81059-60072 | Cruisin4Parts.com - https://cruisin4parts.com/oem-parts/toyota/81059-60072 and Unit Sub-Assy, Headlamp W/Clearance, RH from $197.89 | Toyota OEM parts 81019-60072 | Cruisin4Parts.com - https://cruisin4parts.com/oem-parts/toyota/81019-60072 both show availability.
The other thing I did recently was to fix my shift lock issue. When I bought the truck, the shift lever could move freely from park to low and back again without pressing the button and even with the key out of the ignition. I had though that it was the shift lock solenoid, so bought one of those (33058-60090). I dug into the center console and replaced the solenoid. That wasn't the issue and the old solenoid was probably fine. The issue turned out to be the "Sleve, shift lever knob". It was rotated 90º such that the "Button, shift lever knob" (the button on the shift handle) didn't engage with it. That allowed the shaft to extend all the way upwards and bypass the locks. It would have save me $100 and a bunch of time if I found that first. Oh well, live and learn.
