What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (39 Viewers)

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Progress is definitely being made

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Made myself an under the hood lighting kit that lights up when hood is opened.
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Springs gave me a rush if blood and all the trailing arms, panhard rod, rear prop shaft and wheels thrown back on and all torqued to spec, and I've even ripped out the old AHC pipes. Oh and I've gravity bled all the rear brakes, when I get my handy helper for an hour I'll get them all properly bled through.

Desperately needs a wash and at least a million other things, but it starts, drives, stops and has no warning lights.

Just need to add some metal now where the sills (rocker panels) have returned to the earth, but that's a job for next week.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPuly8j70YWQa4wS9Wq88EjOOEhl8mZ2qY8AbvW
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPuly8j70YWQa4wS9Wq88EjOOEhl8mZ2qY8AbvW

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New (remanufactured) alternator from Ourisman in Richmond installed. Was chasing some noises and found out my alternator (a reman Bosch from Rock Auto) pulley/bearing was making noise.

Had actually started replacing my idler and tensioner pulleys first before I realized it was actually the alternator, so I at least have a new idler pulley and left the other tensioner on there (only has 40-50k miles on it, replaced it a couple years back).

Also installed a new battery - the one I had would not hold a charge even after a long drive and I had to jump it several times recently, and I’m thinking that was related.

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Replaced the 19 year old original front differential mount and tucked in the wires of my Amazboost cellular booster under the driver seat and ran the coax cable through the driver side firewall rubber grommet. Waiting game for the Massive Metal Shop ditch light and antenna brackets.
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Such a PITA to get in there!!
I remove the radiator. It takes 5 minutes and makes it so much easier, besides eliminating the chances of me dinging up the cooling fins.
 
I remove the radiator. It takes 5 minutes and makes it so much easier, besides eliminating the chances of me dinging up the cooling fins.

I considered that but I felt like I had plenty of space in front of the engine with the rad in place. My biggest challenge was the 3 bolts that secure the AC compressor. The frame is much tighter to the compressor compared to a Tundra/Sequoia. I also have a massive 301a oil filter sharing that space, on the next TB job I'll plan on changing the oil at the same time to get that thing out of the way.
 
I considered that but I felt like I had plenty of space in front of the engine with the rad in place. My biggest challenge was the 3 bolts that secure the AC compressor. The frame is much tighter to the compressor compared to a Tundra/Sequoia. I also have a massive 301a oil filter sharing that space, on the next TB job I'll plan on changing the oil at the same time to get that thing out of the way.
My first TB job on my 100 I loosened/removed the three AC bolts because everyone said that's the way to do it. On my last job on the LX I only removed the one bolt through the fan bracket and the fan bracket slid out.
 
My first TB job on my 100 I loosened/removed the three AC bolts because everyone said that's the way to do it. On my last job on the LX I only removed the one bolt through the fan bracket and the fan bracket slid out.

There's two bolts that go through the fan bracket, above and below the compressor. I only loosened the rear bolt (to the block) but maybe it doesn't need to be touched at all.
 
There's two bolts that go through the fan bracket, above and below the compressor. I only loosened the rear bolt (to the block) but maybe it doesn't need to be touched at all.
Sorry - those brain bytes are a few months old. Yes, the front two bolts.
 
The other thing I did recently was to fix my shift lock issue. When I bought the truck, the shift lever could move freely from park to low and back again without pressing the button and even with the key out of the ignition. I had though that it was the shift lock solenoid, so bought one of those (33058-60090). I dug into the center console and replaced the solenoid. That wasn't the issue and the old solenoid was probably fine. The issue turned out to be the "Sleve, shift lever knob". It was rotated 90º such that the "Button, shift lever knob" (the button on the shift handle) didn't engage with it. That allowed the shaft to extend all the way upwards and bypass the locks. It would have save me $100 and a bunch of time if I found that first. Oh well, live and learn.

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Holy cow. I have to check that out. I spent a lot of time and money replacing a bunch of stuff to no avail.
 
What do you mean with 3+1 wiring upgrade?
 

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