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Do you have a link or seller? I like the looks of yours and my seat bottoms and console are toast.Just finished the center console. All that’s left is the DS seat bottom. C’mon Serra!
Post # 40331Do you have a link or seller? I like the looks of yours and my seat bottoms and console are toast.
Same here! They look great, fit well, and installed pretty easilyFWIW I spent $30 from EBay and replaced mine. It’s not high quality leather but it looks pretty good. If I have to replace it in a few years I won’t be mad.View attachment 3863249
Such a PITA to get in there!!Even though this is my 3rd timing belt job I found the LC much more challenging to work on. Tundra/Sequoia is a breeze by comparison.
I remove the radiator. It takes 5 minutes and makes it so much easier, besides eliminating the chances of me dinging up the cooling fins.Such a PITA to get in there!!
I remove the radiator. It takes 5 minutes and makes it so much easier, besides eliminating the chances of me dinging up the cooling fins.
My first TB job on my 100 I loosened/removed the three AC bolts because everyone said that's the way to do it. On my last job on the LX I only removed the one bolt through the fan bracket and the fan bracket slid out.I considered that but I felt like I had plenty of space in front of the engine with the rad in place. My biggest challenge was the 3 bolts that secure the AC compressor. The frame is much tighter to the compressor compared to a Tundra/Sequoia. I also have a massive 301a oil filter sharing that space, on the next TB job I'll plan on changing the oil at the same time to get that thing out of the way.
My first TB job on my 100 I loosened/removed the three AC bolts because everyone said that's the way to do it. On my last job on the LX I only removed the one bolt through the fan bracket and the fan bracket slid out.
Sorry - those brain bytes are a few months old. Yes, the front two bolts.There's two bolts that go through the fan bracket, above and below the compressor. I only loosened the rear bolt (to the block) but maybe it doesn't need to be touched at all.
The other thing I did recently was to fix my shift lock issue. When I bought the truck, the shift lever could move freely from park to low and back again without pressing the button and even with the key out of the ignition. I had though that it was the shift lock solenoid, so bought one of those (33058-60090). I dug into the center console and replaced the solenoid. That wasn't the issue and the old solenoid was probably fine. The issue turned out to be the "Sleve, shift lever knob". It was rotated 90º such that the "Button, shift lever knob" (the button on the shift handle) didn't engage with it. That allowed the shaft to extend all the way upwards and bypass the locks. It would have save me $100 and a bunch of time if I found that first. Oh well, live and learn.
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