What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (87 Viewers)

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I picked up the Eonon brand 10.1” 4GB. Shipped from Jersey pretty fast and came with an OBD2 scanner and 2 cameras and has CarPlay built-in. The screen tilts, but the resolution isn’t very high compared to others out there. I personally like the bigger fonts and icons.

If you use the stock bracket locations to mount this thing up, the HU will be too sunken in to allow you to slip on the screen. Using the stock bracket holes, there's about 1/2" gap between the HU and the aftermarket radio garnish I had. The dimples on the stock bracket make perfect drill bit guides. Drilled out all of them then shifted the brackets back securing only the rear of the HU.
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I laugh because of how perfect everything lined up while pushing the (free-floating) garnish against the console AND I had just enough space to slip the screen back on.
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That looks like you could slot inwards another 1cm or so :) Wouldn't hurt it at all
 
Decided to get ahead of Covid 2021 and installed a WeBoost cell booster and upped my data to unlimited. Used code MUDWEBOOST and see this thread: WeBoost & Wilson Pro Cell Boosters - Code "MUDWEBOOST" at "AllTechSource.com" - Ends Nov. 31, 2020

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I saw that there are a couple open-box systems on Amazon also: https://amzn.to/3mxyMyW
So how does this work for you? You have an Android HU that supports 4G simcard ?
 
So how does this work for you? You have an Android HU that supports 4G simcard ?
No just factory head unit with an SL3-B bluetooth module. My phone uses Google Fi so it connects to both GSM and CDMA networks so the booster works flawlessly with it anywhere. Tested it several times on my friend's WeBoost before getting my own. Work from home, anywhere!

SL3-B Bluetooth module: https://amzn.to/2K9tQU5
 
Got a massage at Windrock yesterday.View attachment 2528211
Love my slee rear bumper. No mudflaps, no trailer hitch, spare on the back and a ton more clearance on the back end. Just get rid of the resonator and run the tail pipe right behind the tire.
 
about ½ of what i paid for the lx. and i paid 7900 for the lx

That's a darn good price for 4...worth every single penny and then some, too.
 
Love my slee rear bumper. No mudflaps, no trailer hitch, spare on the back and a ton more clearance on the back end. Just get rid of the resonator and run the tail pipe right behind the tire.

I like the way you think!
If I were single with no kids in college I would do exactly as you suggest.
My mudflap is half deleted from hanging on rocks etc anyway.
I've seen people ask about trailer hitch vs no trailer hitch: Just like you say, remove the hitch, remove the resonator and reroute the pipe. Otherwise, the hitch is what protects the resonator and pipe.
The hitch limits the rear clearance but at least when I hear the loud "whack/bang/thud" I know my bumper and resonator hasn't been left smeared on a rock!
 
Had a busy four-day thanksgiving work plan that turned into two weeks. It all started by spending the month prior to get all the part numbers and parts together.

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Work included:
  • Re-replacing upper and lower main radiator hoses.
    • Previous replacements from Napa seemed to have shrunk over the few months of being installed and were pulling off the nipples so I replaced with OEM.
  • Disassembled the entire front end for some needed maintenance and cleaned up 20 years of grim and abuse.
    • This took a lot longer than I thought it would.
  • Replaced all UCA LCA bushings with OEM.
    • The UCA really sucked and would 1000% just buy new next time.
  • Replaced both outer TRE's.
  • Replaced UCA and LCA ball joints with 555
    • Shout out to @cruiseroutfit for supplying the parts and the cool stickers.
  • Disassembled, cleaned, and corrected some damage to the hub and steering knuckles and reassembled with all new bearings/races, seals, and grease.
    • Shout out to @Onur for making this possible and more cool stickers.
  • Re-indexed torsion bars.
  • Replaced power steering low pressure suction/return hoses, flushed system, and treated with AT-205.
  • Had the ECU flashed to program new keys.
    • Shout out to @Mauser for all the help.
  • Installed an extension on the AC drain.
  • Replaced front shocks.
  • Replaced the main fuse box gasket.
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Unfortunately, I did find that the ABS ring on the PS hub was damaged (and I forgot to take a picture); likely in the last "service" ~20k miles ago. My hope is that the damage is not a part of my random VSC issue and that the VSC issue is related more to the worn steering/UCA/LCA bushings, UCA/LCA/TRE ball joints, and large snap ring gaps of 0.8mm and 0.72mm. With all the new parts and the new snap ring gaps of ~0.06mm my fingers are crossed that it tests alright. If not, looks like I get to practice removing the hub again.

You're most of the way to...doing a SAS conversion ala @TRAIL TAILOR!
 
Spent the last week wrapping up the stuff below. The timing belt appeared to be original, the tensioner was rusty and leaking, old wp was weeping. Started with different rattles up front just getting worse and worse, she's so quiet now, Steering seems better more responsive with the new idlers and tensioner. Night and day difference, wish I had done this off the bat.

tb & wp
fan bracket
fan clutch
radiator
rad hoses
alt brush
serp belt & tensioner
oil change & filter
 
Getting ready to take a road trip to Moab for New Years, I finally fixed my passenger side rear window (latch hardware fell out while driving over Hagerman Pass this summer, just now stripped off the gorilla tape holding it shut and replaced said hardware), and dug my tire carrier out of the snow. I haven’t run it since installing my Ironman lift (and deleting AHC). The LX definitely handles the weight hanging off the back better now with the lift. I have the 4X4Labs Labs rear bumper kit that will replace this carrier when I have time to weld it up, so I was pretty curious to see how it carries a load out back.

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